Going ten speed, wondering the above?

No , I dropped a chain , used an MRPx1 still dropped a couple of times, so not perfect.

Depends on your riding. For single track, maybe. For DH, definitely not.

I run 2×10 and lost the chain a lot on very rocky terrain. Smashed my mech so went with a clutch mech and a stinger. No longer lost the chain. Now trying clutch mech only.. shall report back after tomorrow although that may be more about how well it works underwater..

I’m still not understanding clutch mechs…they stop the mech moving forward for the whole travel…so how can it prevent the chain from dropping? If the bump is big enough it won’t need the mech to move that far forward…or does it?

I’m not seeing any benefit to them at all and don’t understand why they are apparently so good…anyone able to explain to an idiot (me!) why they are apparently so good?

I don’t know the entire science behind it, but they definitely keep the chain much tighter even going through travel. Bit odd when fitted as it all seems too tight and I worry that the chain is too short. Riding it all seems perfect though.

I’ve gone for a guide with a pulley cage however and all is rock solid. Pick up is great. Feels like my hard tail or I guess even a single speed. Foot on pedal, off instantly with power. Got no clain slap, no mech rattle, no chain drop whatsoever. Finally! That’s with 1×10 and a short clutch mech plus e.13 TRS+ Single device. On my old 2×10 (X0) I had loads of problems with chain drop, even with a 2x chain device, but that had a slack mech (older X0 mech).

I could probably do without the pulley cage, but seems fine at the moment. You will *definitely* need a top guide though.

Common thread this. I found without a chain device it’s better than a normal mech and no chain device, but still pretty close to useless. But with a top guide, it works almost as well as a normal mech and a top-and-bottom guide.

Think it’s possible if I went 1×10 on the big bike I’d still need a bottom guide mind but it’s been near-perfect on the hardtail.

DickBarton, just think of it as like a much stronger spring in the mech. That’s not how it actually works, but it’s the end effect. Chain is much more controlled and therefore can’t flap itself off as easily.

So it is similar to a rear mech of the early to mid 90s before everything went to ‘lighter’ touch…ok.

i’ve had a shimano clutch mech for about 6 months – i run 2×10 and i’ve not lost a chain yet. but then my riding is very xc based.

The clutch part of the mech provides more friction to the jockey wheel assembly, so it helps to prevent the chain from slapping about under the chain stay and helps to provide a more consistant chain tension.

Whilst this definatly reduces noise and gives better tension to the chain under the chainstays i cant see providing as much help along the top of the chain, where, i my experiance, in most cases you loose the chain.

however a clutch mech and a x11 chain ring…….

I’ve had mine fitted for a couple of rides now after I broke my old mech and no chain slap at all , a massive improvement over the more expensive mech it replaced. I haven’t dropped a chain yet either but only done 30 miles or so.
well worth a try if you need a replacement imo.

I am an absolute convert. Would still need top and bottom for a downhill bike but everything else is fine IMHO.
Have it on two bikes, both 1×10. Cotic Soul with just a Paul’s Chain Device and an Orange Blood with just a top guide. Both work fine. Still have a top and bottom on downhill bike. Best real world simple improvement for bikes in ages. When the bike bounces the mech doesn’t swing forward and loosen the chain. I do have dedicated single chainrings that have longer teeth and that also helps I would imagine. Also runs very quietly which is nice if that is important to you.

ive been rising with a chain device for 18months and never dropped a chain ever…… why try and beat something that has a proven 100% sucess rate.

I bought an XT Shadow+ mech a few months back and haven’t dropped a chain since.
Chain slap is considerably less also, infrequent on very rocky trails.
I done the Pitfichie orange graded downhill route and had no issues.

You can increase clutch tension on the XT and XTR models if you’re still dropping chains.

For info: running full XT 10 speed with a KMC X10.93 chain.

They still require a chain device I found. Even on a tarmac commute I was throwing the chain, just by changing gear. Fitted a Paul’s device and everything is good.

I think you have a wee problem with your drivetrain set up if you lose the chain just by changing gear on Tarmac.