Viewing 13 posts - 1 through 13 (of 13 total)
  • Clutch mech not working as well as I hoped – any ideas?
  • robdob
    Free Member

    I had 2×9 with a Blackspire Stinger and loved the setup but wanted to change to Shimano from SRAM so went 10sp at the same time.
    I have an XT mech/cassette/shifters and now 2×10 with 22/38 front ring with a Hope bashguard. Chain makes a lot of noise and slaps around a bit and it came off during a favourite downhill that was reasonably rocky but no where near the rockiest round here (WYorks).
    Anyone else had the same result? Mech appears to be working ok as far as I can see.
    I assume if I refit the Stinger it would still be ok to run the mech in clutch mode – is that right?

    neilwheel
    Free Member

    No problem, are you sure your chain is the right length?

    robdob
    Free Member

    Yes, I have a Specialized Pitch and I tested the length at full travel on the two largest cogs and it was stretched as far as I thought it could be. Wouldn’t want to shorten chain any further.

    jam-bo
    Full Member

    Is it switched on?

    robdob
    Free Member

    Yes.

    jam-bo
    Full Member

    Does switching it on make any difference to how easily the cage moves whilst on the stand?

    You can adjust the clutch on most models I think.

    thekettle
    Free Member

    You can open up the rear mech body and increase the clutch strength by screwing in a little nut. Worked for me. When you open it you’ll also find out whether the clutch mechanism has broken, they do go occasionally and are covered under warranty I think.

    hypnotoad
    Free Member

    Have yet to drop the chain on my Zee mech and the chain is quiet, I would double check the clutch part.

    phiiiiil
    Full Member

    I rode my spare bike with a normal mech today, for the first time in ages; by christ it was clattery, it was driving me mental! It’s amazing what you get used to…

    zedz
    Free Member

    I am no expert here but I thought Shimano recommend a 12 tooth gap between chainrings? I read that somewhere… (you could always google it if you can be arsed).

    A smaller gap would mean a tighter chain, relatively that is, ie less difference between max stretch on the largest cogs and max ‘looseness’ on the smallest cogs would mean less flapping about on the smaller ends?

    Just a thought?

    neilwheel
    Free Member

    You are stretching the boundaries using a 22/38 ring combo.

    If you are riding hard you may still need a guide.

    robdob
    Free Member

    Didn’t realise there was an issue with chainring sizes. I want to go to a 40t as well!!!

    Might try adjusting it a bit. Don’t think I can shorten the chain any more.

    neilwheel
    Free Member

    Are you using a long cage mech?

    What size cassette?

Viewing 13 posts - 1 through 13 (of 13 total)

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