Hi
Starting off indoor climbing and want to buy my own harness. Will be climbing up to 10 times a year. I will also be on trips with the kids where I will only be belaying only.

So do I go for a basic ‘alpine’ harness or is it better to get a more padded harness?

Both here are around £40 mark

http://www.tauntonleisure.com/clog-centre-harness/p2360

http://www.tauntonleisure.com/dmm-tomcat/p8079

Thanks

The second one without a doubt. Harnesses are relatively cheap so it makes sense to get the most comfortable. Especially if you’ll be doing lots of belaying. The last thing you want is an abrasive nylon strap cutting into your crotch when you’re supposed to be watching your climber.

I would say padded. There’s really not much in the price, and repeated leader falls and hanging about should be more comfortable.

I’m also not seeing any gear loops on the Clog harness. If you do want to try leading or seconding outdoors, you need somewhere to rack the gear.

EDIT: Tomcat is a kid’s harness, BTW.

What? You mean there’s more choice now than the good old Whillans harness?

Shocking, isn’t it? The testicles of future generations are safe.

I still wish you could get the old clog/troll climbers belt for simple scrambling etc. I know its limitations but grew up and taught with them (CCF instructor) and we never had any issues.

Ha ha, my left testicle has never recovered from a Whillans-induced crush back in the seventies. It still pains me even now when I sit for long periods and I have to be very careful after a hot bath when things are hanging loose.

Tomcat is a kid’s harness, BTW.

Hadn’t spotted that. Something like this will fit the bill and cover pretty much any eventuality:

http://www.gooutdoors.co.uk/wild-country-mens-elite-ziplock-climbing-harness-p123270

alpine harnesses are for climbing in the alps where you have lots of clothes on (so don’t need padding) and falling is strongly discouraged. That wild country one from dazh looks ideal for indoors or cragging.

I can vouch for the wild country elite, it’s quite comfortable. I would, however, try one on before you buy. As most equipment – Comfort is such a personal thing.
If you’re buying a harness, maybe look at shoes too? Oh an don’t forget a carabiner and belay device.

Ha ha, my left testicle has never recovered from a Whillans-induced crush back in the seventies. It still pains me even now when I sit for long periods and I have to be very careful after a hot bath when things are hanging loose.

Probably more information than strictly required. But I feel your pain. I wore one only once, just for top-roping, but was ‘arranged wrongly’ when it came to lowering off time. Oh, how we laughed…

Thanks – was only considering that ‘alpine’ harness because it looked a bit cool in my eyes. Didn’t know it was intended to be worn over multiple layers of clothes.

Will get a padded number. Very much doubt I will be doing anything more besides indoor top roping but maybe I’ll get the bug.

Ok – will need a carabiner and belay device too. I’ve only ever used a figure 8, do I stick with that or are the modern devices much better?

http://www.theoutdoorshop.com/showPart.asp?part=PN4144&utm_source=Product_feed&utm_medium=google&utm_campaign=1@id=23418863884&gclid=CMzilLHElbgCFTIQtAodFXkArg

Amazing harness no over laps so when you do get to going outside your gear doesn’t bunch up like with the wild country ones,however no zip lock buckles so you do have to double them back on them selve’s

My advice would be to get a modern belay device – fig 8’s cn be fine in the right hands, but are frowned on in many indoor walls, for starters.

Something of this ilk.

http://www.rockrun.com/products/DMM-Bug.html

As above, don’t go for a stripped down alpine harness unless you intend to do mountaineering/alpinism.
Personally, I would still always go for adjustable leg straps tho, just easier IMO and make sure the gear loops are usable, plenty and in the right position, I’ve had one or two rubbish ones over the years that looked nice, but just weren’t designed very well for the heat of battle.

As Martin^ re the belay device, they’re the best for crags/indoors IMO. I only use fig.8 in the alps as it’s a bit easier to use with gloves on, running direct belays etc

I have two – an Alpine harness for Winter Mountaineering – worn over many layers and a padded one for summer rock climbing. Lots of gear loops are useful – both mine have four.

Last question – harness for a 5 year old – sit in or full body?

My 6 yr old still uses full body harness, but she has had it since 2 when full body was certainly required. She has used sit harness couple of times at mobile ‘have a go walls’, but we’ll probably keep using the full body harness till she’s grown out of it, then get a sit harness. Not sure what I’d get if buying new for a 5/6 yr old. Sorry not really answered your question 😐

full bod harness imo

Always go for the harness that is most comfortable to you, those nylon strap ones are hideously uncomfortable when you’re in them for any length of time.

My advice would be to get a modern belay device – fig 8’s cn be fine in the right hands, but are frowned on in many indoor walls, for starters.

Something of this ilk.

http://www.rockrun.com/products/DMM-Bug.html

I have one of these (albeit, a somewhat older version). I’d recommend one any-day. http://www.rockrun.com/products/Black-Diamond-ATC-XP.html

Try a few out, differences in cut/fit/padding can be massive if you get into it and spend a long time using one especially extended periods on a rope i.e. multi pitch belaying. Not as important if you’re mainly going to stay indoors but still important, as mentioned ignore anything slimmed down or alpine.

I’ve always used Wild Country, have 3 or 4 and all fit well for long days, currently using a syncro which seems to be no longer in the range.

Belay device, Big caribena and DMM bug is simple and easy to use.