Viewing 17 posts - 1 through 17 (of 17 total)
  • Cleaning Frame Threads after Powdercoating
  • andymac
    Free Member

    Just had my Orange 224 powdercoated. The company did a good job and covered the threads but a small amount of laqueur and gunk got into some of the smaller threads. The most worrying area are the 2 axle pinch bolts on the swingarm as if I manage to thread them I think that would write off the swingarm. I take it I need to tap the threads? Is this easy and if so are there any top tips, I understand that I need to use cutting fluid.

    Cheers for any top tips

    monogramman
    Free Member

    Use a Thread file, really easy to do.

    Like this

    Northwind
    Full Member

    If you don’t already have a tap and die set, they’re not expensive for a basic one and very useful for stuff like this. You do need to be careful with them though, it’s a tool that can do a lot of damage very quickly.

    andymac
    Free Member

    Can’t see how the file would clean the internal threads (rather than bolts). Think a chaser rather than a tap would make sense but they seem tricky to get hold of.

    monogramman
    Free Member

    For bigger threads such as bb’s and large ish linkages they work really well, because they sit in the thread available as a guide you are less likely to start cutting/crossing an existing thread.

    Obviously it will not work for threads where you cant get the tool in. Use a tap for that, I’m just suggesting another option

    andymac
    Free Member

    Thanks for the advice. Is there any particular best practice on using the tap?

    irelanst
    Free Member

    Is there any particular best practice on using the tap?

    Don’t do what one of the apprentices at work did, he put the tap in a vice to hold it and turned the part (about 4kg of stainless steel)around it – he only broke a few taps before someone showed him a tap wrench.

    For clearing out a bit of paint it’s pretty easy, put the tap into a battery drill, give it a squirt of WD40 and run the tap in and out a few times. The threads should be free running after that.

    johnellison
    Free Member

    For clearing out a bit of paint it’s pretty easy, put the tap into a battery drill, give it a squirt of WD40 and run the tap in and out a few times. The threads should be free running after that.

    I wouldn’t recommend using a drill, especially if you’ve never attempted this job before. Use a hand tap-wrench, it’ll give you far more control. It’s too easy to get a tap out of line and if you’re doing it with a drill you’ll chew the thread up before you know where you are.

    Leave the battery drills to the professional bodgers!!

    andymac
    Free Member

    By hand sounds more sensible and I think I will practice on my broken swingarm. The axle does at least have a non threaded hole prior to the threaded part that should keep me fairly straight. The next concern I have is that the tap may remove too much material.

    mattmbk
    Free Member

    If you’re only cleaning out paint you may well be able to run the tap down using your fingers, especially if it’s a new tap. Don’t worry about taking too much material away, you’ll be fine as long as you use the correct tap for your thread. Any lube will do but I doubt you’ll need it.

    sbob
    Free Member

    johnellison – Member

    I wouldn’t recommend using a drill, especially if you’ve never attempted this job before.

    Nope; recipe for disaster.

    irelanst
    Free Member

    Nope; recipe for disaster.

    Meh, what’s the worst that can happen. Lots of places have spark errosion kit these days anyway 😀

    The next concern I have is that the tap may remove too much material.

    Use a taper tap, it will align itself into the existing threads. The thread already exists in the part so it shouldn’t remove any metal at all. Use a really light pressure to start, if the paint has filled in the first few threads then the tap might try to start cutting in the wrong place so let it skid for a bit first (an alternative would be to use a de-burrer or countersink to clear out the thread lead in first) then just run it through, if you see much metal or feel it cutting then have a closer look to see what’s happening.

    sugdenr
    Free Member

    My advice is be VERY careful, powdercoat is very tough, maybe even tougher than the ally substrate, I had a right mare cleaning threads on a MX bike frame. Most of the hole I left sacraficial bolts in but couldnt undo the buggers the powdercoat was so strong.

    Thrustyjust
    Free Member

    Dont buy cheap taps , get the ones you need in M6 and maybe M5. Cheap taps are junk and if you buy a set, they will probably cost as much as the 2 or 3 you need.

    andymac
    Free Member

    Cheers for all the suggestions. Awaiting tap set and will practice on old swingarm and non critical threads first.

    andymac
    Free Member

    Just an update. Bought a Clarkes tap set which did the job perfectly. Even managed to repair one of the ISCG tabs that had been damaged a couple if years ago. Thanks again.

    oneoneoneone
    Free Member

    i used a drill (with a clutch) to tap 645 holes. I had to repair both diesel tanks from a LCVP they have 4 or 5 port holes on them and all the threads needed repairing. the job took me 3 weeks! had nothing else to do in the falklands other than drink

Viewing 17 posts - 1 through 17 (of 17 total)

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