Just Copydex. We had some in. It worked well.

I can see salt working too though now you mention it.

I’m going to scuff up the paint round the canopy opening too, then cover it with smoke stains, leaks and general crap. The decals will be chipped and scuffed as well.

I want it to look like the last plane they had left.

The Last Samurai

Quite pleased with this one.

New techniques to me for this build.

– Thinned the paint for the first time.
– Used a PVA solution to settle the decals.
– Used “The Copydex Method” to get the paint chips.
– Thinners and enamels for the dirt.
– Used a pin vice with a 0.8mm bit to drill out the gun ports.
– Cleaned up the paintwork on the canopy with a bamboo kebab stick before it had fully dried.

Airfix A6M Zero. It went together very nicely and only cost me £6.

13in high Cylon Centurion coming soon… scary thing

A few of the serious scale RC plane guys use a paint brush and blob on vaseline over the silver coat before applying the too colours. Works well and offers easy control of tiny or huge areas.

Got a Revell ME262 next and it looks rubbish in comparison to the Zero. Loads of flash and the canopy is bobbins. However, it was only a fiver and will go nicely with my WWII fighters.

Harry the Spider that is stunning!!!

Ta. I’ve picked up a load of tips since Christmas, mostly off this thread.

Liking the ‘Zero’ very much HtS!

Are you sticking with 1/72 as your scale of choice?

A recent revelation for me has been Tamiya Sanding sponges – great for giving primer coats a quick smooth, especially in those awkward areas like wing joints where I often get a slight ‘grainy’ surface due to airbrushing ‘turbulance’ despite my best efforts to follow the contours.

Are you sticking with 1/72 as your scale of choice?

We haven’t got space for anything bigger. I can’t even have a go at the bigger aircraft. I’d like to do a Canberra but won’t fit on the shelves in my lad’s room.

Also, my daughter has started making them. So that makes three of us and the production rate is quite high.

Work has started on a Revell Me262, my lad is doing another Zero and my daughter has got a Curtis Warhawk.

We haven’t got space for anything bigger.

The ‘perennial problem’ eh?

Most older efforts (with a few exceptions) generally get photographed, boxed up and relegated to the attic – and I don’t have the ‘production line’ volume capabilities you have!

I only asked about the scale as I’ve recently enjoyed the switch from mainly 1/72 to 1/48 – they take longer, but the scope for detail & weathering is far greater since much of these effects are either lost or inappropiate on many smaller 1/72 scale models.

I’ve got to make some new shelving though, to accomodate the larger projects!!

Work has started on a Revell Me262

Have you seen this month’s ‘Airfix Model World’ magazine? Nice article and builds of both Airfix’s & Revells Me262

15% off code at Jadlam today only!

PRIMEDAYFB

Just got an F14 Tomcat, F18 Hornet and F4 Phantom for £34 delivered.

Update – The Me262 build is stalled as i’m waiting for some “liquid gravity” and the necessary glue to turn up. It needs 20g nose weight and I can’t get that with Blutac and there isn’t enough space for the wheel balance weights that are in the Lightning and the Flanker.

To avoid me having to endure the tennis I started a Douglas Dauntless, but found that the instrument panel is missing, so I am at the mercy of Airfix Customer Services. Previous dealings with them have been excellent, so both builds should be back up and running next week. The Dauntless is a very old moulding so I’ve got a lot flash to remove. I wouldn’t have gone for it normally, but it was in my Airfix Christmas Hamper and it will sit nicely with the Zero.

I’m going to go “Free Style” on the Me262 colour scheme as a practice run for my Sea Vixen. I’ve had it for a few months now and don’t want to balls it up because a) It is my favourite plane and b) The kit cost quite a lot relative to the others.

Have you seen this month’s ‘Airfix Model World’ magazine? Nice article and builds of both Airfix’s & Revells Me262

Thanks for the tip off, they had it in Tesco! The J15 looks amazing and makes my Flanker look very amateurish. 😕

Have you tried using the weights that anglers use?
Or if you have a radio controlled model shop handy, they usually sell lead weights in strips of 2.5g & 10g. Although the nose of a 1/72 Me262 is a tad small, all you need to do is get the weight forward of the main wheels

https://www.sussex-model-centre.co.uk/irvine-stick-on-weights-pk3

Dive shops often sell bags of lead shot. £7 should get you a kilo, enough for the rest of your modelling career be careful when you mix epoxy to put it in place. You don’t want to melt anything

I’ve got some model specific stuff.

Rather irritatingly though I’ve just popped into the LMS (Local Model Shop) and found that I could have bought it over the counter for a bit less than I paid for it on line. Bugger.

Big shout out for my excellent LMS.

https://www.thelocoshedmcr.co.uk/

Or if you have a radio controlled model shop handy, they usually sell lead weights in strips of 2.5g & 10g.

They are what I’ve been using, but they are cheaper if you buy them as wheel balance weights.

Too big for the 262 though.

Plasticine? I did a 1/72 262 a few years ago, think I used a combination of plasticine and lead shot

Need to get 20g in it. Couldn’t get more than half that with Blutac alone and I don’t know how dense plasticine is in comparison.

I’m betting the 20g is an overstatement, but i’ll just have to wait until my stuff arrives.

I’ve got a Fairey Gannett than needs 35g IIRC. No idea where I’m going to shove that!

I use liquid gravity in model trains, decent stuff when you don’t have space for anything bigger.

Is this stuff any good?

Is this stuff any good?

Yes. There’s ‘Micro Set’ as well, they soften the decals & help them form on raised & recessed surfaces.*

*IIRC*

Is this stuff any good?

‘Micro set’ (Blue) goes on the area where the decal is to be applied in order to reduce surface tension. This one smells a bit ‘vinegary’

Decal is applied and then Micro Sol (Red) softens the decal to the contours & detail of the model.

Both are good, but I probably use much more ‘sol’ than ‘set’. Preferable to Humbrol’s Decalfix which I find leaves a sticky residue (although Decalfix is quite useful with weathering powders)

Sorry it’s a FB link but this is incredible

In other news… Just bagged a F4J Corsair for less than £3!

Wow Roket Hot and Liquid Gravity are a dangerous combination!

Stuck 50g in it by accident and bonded all of my fingers together in the process.

I’m just glad that I had the foresight to do it over a box or I would have written off the kitchen worktop.

Cylon centurion

I’m not sure that I would be allowed to have that in the house.

Mrs_d is a little scared of it too. 1/6 scale (think Action Man) but works out at 6ft 6in tall or taller

It’ll be fine until it rises up to overthrow its fleshy oppressors, what’ll be worse is when it finds God and try’s converting you!

There is a base too but I hadn’t got round to painting it when I took these photos.

Revell Me262

Got bored with this one very quickly once I saw that the canopy had the shape and opacity of a big toe nail. Finished it anyway but I’m not feeling the love for it.

New techniques this time:

Panel lines with a 6B pencil and blended with a cotton wool bub.
Blending paint colours with thinners.
Using Micro Sol to set the decals.

The jury is out on whether I like it or not.

[Img]https://s6.postimg.org/h9bfqa16p/P7262512.jpg[/img]

If you want to build a 1:72 Me262 buy the Airfix one.

New techniques this time

@HtS – have you had a look at Diego Quijano’s Encylopedia of Aircraft Modelliing techniques? There’s 5 volumes and it can work out quite pricey for all 5 but there’s some good stuff in there.

For sure many of the techniques are probably on various YouTube Channels but you’d probably have to spend a lifetime watching dross on YouTube.

Numpty question: If you pick out the panel lines with a pencil, do you lacquer over it?

I’ve seen it done where the panel lines & a bit of panel either side are painted black over primer but before colour coat. Seems to work but I haven’t tried it yet

Numpty question: If you pick out the panel lines with a pencil, do you lacquer over it?

Depends – if the model is likely to be handled in anyway, then yes – a final coat of varnish with ‘seal’ any panel lines & weathering.

I’ve seen it done where the panel lines & a bit of panel either side are painted black over primer but before colour coat

I’ve had mixed results with this ‘pre-shading’ technique – it works fine and is very effective on lighter paint colours but pretty much disappears with the likes of dark earth & dark green WWII RAF camo – especially after dark green unless I leave the green quite ‘opaque’ in which case the camo just doesn’t look right.

For dark colour schemes I’ve had better results with ‘post shading’ and various ‘Panel Line Washes’

Numpty question: If you pick out the panel lines with a pencil, do you lacquer over it?

On the 262 I penciled along the lines in the kit then rubbed off or blended in any excess before covering the whole lot with satin clear coat.

Was looking up WWII American stuff and found this.

[video]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OD-lx95yewY[/video]

I’m on with an Airfix Douglas Dauntless and it is a much happier kit than the Revell 262.

My faith in little plastic aeroplanes has been restored

Just bought a Revell 1:48 Stearman. Looking at the packaging it’s either a new kit or just new packaging. Instructions are in colour and very similar to the instructions for the new Airfix kits, e.g the 1:48 Boulton Paul Defiant.
Not sure about rigging a biplane though. Done it before with black cotton thread, looks messy, there has to be a better way

For biplanes just heat sprue and stretch it and cut to length.
There was a great Confederate Airforce doc about 20 years ago on the BEEB.