Viewing 16 posts - 1 through 16 (of 16 total)
  • Chris king non boost to boost help ??
  • snap
    Free Member

    Hi
    I keep coming up with blanks here
    Is it possible to run a non boost Chris king rear hub on a boost frame
    Specifically a Santa Cruz tallboy 3

    Thanks in advance

    greyspoke
    Free Member

    There are generic axle spacers like from mtbtools,.

    greyspoke
    Free Member

    But if it is a centre lock hub, no.

    snap
    Free Member

    It’s Chris king 6bolt

    snap
    Free Member

    Greyspoke
    Many thanks for the link
    Is there anywhere uk based that supply the spacers

    greyspoke
    Free Member

    Not that I’m aware of. A lot of $ for a few small bits of Al isn’t it? You’d think Superstar or BETD etc would get in on it.

    snap
    Free Member

    Has anybody successfully done this with a CK rear hub ..
    LBS reckon it can’t be done with CK

    fd3chris
    Free Member

    D&D cycles used to do a conversion for their GT frames. It comes in around the same price though. I’ve used mtbtools a few times and he is very reliable.

    solarider
    Free Member

    Can’t be done. The combination of axle and disc spacing just won’t work. If you space the axle correctly, the rotor won’t be in the right place. Getting both the cassette and rotor in the right place is not possible. And the dishing required to get the rim centred will make the wheel very weak. Sorry……

    Fat-boy-fat
    Full Member

    Is there not a boostinator equivalent for Chris king hubs?

    neilforrow
    Full Member

    Snap, your in the south west right? I had the same issue with a set of bor hubs, got some adaptors made of stainless by a place in Tiverton (Morrish). Real good work.

    greyspoke
    Free Member

    @solarider – I have no knowledge of the idiosyncrasies of King hubs, but that is not true in general. Rear boost conversion kits come in two flavours: ones that keep the wheel central (3mm of spacer per side) and come with 6-bolt disc spacers of 3mm, the mtb tools ones are like this; and ones that space the wheel over to the drive-side dropout with 6mm of disc spacer and a 6mm spacer on the non-drive side. The former requires a non-boost chainline, the latter a boost chainline.

    @Fat-boy – some kits have replacement hub end caps (like the Wolf Tooth Boostinator, which is of the second type) but they are disc-specific (at least nominally).

    mickmcd
    Free Member

    I might have some 5mm and 2.5mm kits left from some frames we made for a company , they eventually switched to our dropout system that runs 142 and 148 with no need for the spacers

    snap
    Free Member

    Neilforrow
    Unfortunately I’m in the midlands not the south west I’d be really interested in looking at those can I trouble you to send me some pics
    Email in profile
    Many thanks

    Mickmcd
    Again I’d be interested in seeing how you’ve managed to make it work and possibly purchasing if suitable
    Email in profile
    Many thanks

    Greyspoke
    In your opinion which flavour of spacing would work best with my desired combination
    Santa Cruz tallboy 3
    CK non boost hub
    I’m sorted on the front because I’m getting a frame only tallboy and already have non boost pikes

    one_happy_hippy
    Free Member

    Hi Snap sorry to hijack your thead (no forum paging!) – saw a post about a Blur TRc – still have it? I’ve dropped you a mail in case you do. Ta.

    greyspoke
    Free Member

    @snap – I have re-used some non-boost hubs on a new boost frame recently. My decision was dictated by the fact that, at some stage, I intend to buld me some 27.5+ boost-hubbed wheels to run as alternatives, so I went for the spacing-to-the-right option so the wheels will just swap. Well that’s the idea.

    Another advantage of that option is you have to dish your wheel over to the left, which makes spoke tension more even and in theory leads to a stronger wheel. Which is also the disadvantage, you have to re-dish your wheel, can be a struggle if the nipples are well seized in, I soaked mine in penetrating oil overnight and they turned, albeit noisily.

    So if your wheel is fine and you aren’t planning swapping with boost-hub wheels, the space-it-in-the middle option would be the one. Either way, you will need disc spacers so your wheel will not just drop back in to a non-boost frame.

Viewing 16 posts - 1 through 16 (of 16 total)

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