Driving 14-15k a year (mostly country type roads) – not much urban at all
Need space for shopping
Safe
Economical
Not one with a **** HDi engine or DMF
Can be diesel or petrol not fussed
Ability to have roof bars and/or a tow bar
5 doors a must
Not “clio” small

1.4 Petrol Focus.

I spotted a 2003 5 door Audi A3 1.9TDI with 70k on the clock for 3250 this morning HERE. A bit of haggling should get it for under 3K.

i got a 2.4 V6 Audi A4 Avant for £500 on ebay!

best family car ever! Dog, kids, bags and bike = Done!

EDIT- Missed the economical bit, only does 30MPG but its better than the 9mpg of Skyline powered 200sx

Just keep things simple – any of the PD (i.e. 1.9 TD not 2.0 badged ones) VAG group diesels), pre-hdi pugs etc… Something like a Berlingo is well respected.

Petrol – 1.4 or 1.6 Focus, Corolla, Golf etc… etc…

Keep the tech simple and buy off condition – something with a very good service history and lots of records would be worth its weight in gold over something which on paper is more desirable but no records of having even an oil change etc…

Does sound like you are describing a Focus. However at £3k i’d say you’ll either get a high mileage newer shape model, or a low mileage old shape.

DONT get rid of the Berlingo. Seriously.

You will be buying 3k of someone elses cast off. People tend to sell when a car has numerous issues, one coming up etc etc rather than just ‘bored/time for a change’. 14-15k a year? You’d need a reliable car as well. Stick with what you know. Talking from experience here..

Also don’t forget Mk1’s are getting older and older now so you’ll still have bills at somepoint. The seller will sell the car with 50% worn disc/pads etc etc etc etc etc… The cars new to you but it aint sure new to life.

3k? You could get a bike for that!

Hora – i am concerned that the turbo (if its that) could go again sharpish and that i would be presented with a similar bill again.

1.9 DW8 berlingo/partner

no DMF , base model so no electric toys , no turbo.

does 40mpg religeously

slow as shit so will retain your licence

great in snow.

Find a written off one and get a garage to drop the engine in- youll get serious change from your 3k …. no body wants dw8s but they will run for ever.

Not one with a **** HDi engine

Why on earth not? Just sold my 406 HDi with 156k on the clock, having never had a problem with the engine.

Having said that, I just replaced it with an ’08 plate Mondeo estate which I paid £4k for. A tad out of your budget, but you could do a lot worse than get one a year or two older than that for your budget (you’re into big miles for that price, but I reckon that makes for better value). You could of course get a Focus instead, but if anything they seem to go for more money s/h than Mondeos once you’re getting down to that sort of price, and I don’t think there’s much in it in terms of the running costs – you might as well have the extra space!

Hora – i am concerned that the turbo (if its that) could go again sharpish and that i would be presented with a similar bill again.

If its a new turbo being fitted it will come with a 12months warranty.

Before then find a garage that WILL do the oil/filter/mesh clean change properly- look in a forum/ask around.

Madness. Seriously. I had something similar, car was fine to that point. Sorted the car and sold ASAP. Then walked into a full main dealer history/clean car with niggles/consumables that all added up..

We bought Mrs TM a 2002 E46 325I with 86k on the clock for £3250 a few weeks back. Returns 30+mpg, and is supremely comfy. Will be buying another for me when the Mini needs to go back and leap off the car finance ‘merry-go-round’

Any Diesel will always have the spectre of a failed turbo hanging over them and you’ll soon wipe out any ecomonmy savings if it does go.

I know what you are saying hora thats why i have moved it to a new garage and want this:

OIL CHANGE PROCEDURE ON ALL DV6 ENGINES

It is necessary to follow a specific oil change procedure on all DV6 and DV6U engines so as to ensure that no used oil remains to mix with the new oil.

The following method must be used:

• The engine oil temperature must be at least 50°C :
– the engine oil temperature is considered to be at 50°C when the water temperature indicator is between 80°C and 90°C or the cooling fan has cut in
• ensure that the vehicle is level (side to side and fore and aft)
• remove the oil filter to allow the circuit to drain completely
• remove the oil filler cap and the dipstick
• remove the drain plug
• allow the oil to drain by gravity for at least 10 minutes (DO NOT USE SUCTION METHODS)
• fit a new oil filter
• refit the drain plug with a new sealing washer
• fill the engine with quantity of oil recommended for the engine
• refit the oil filler cap and the dipstick
• run the engine at idle until the oil pressure warning lamp goes out (about 1 minute)
• wait 5 minutes
• check the oil level using the dipstick: the level should be as close as possible to, but not exceeding the maximum mark (1) so as to be between (1) and (3)

For information, the lower mark (2) = Min (0%) the upper mark (1) = Max (100%) the intermediate mark (3) = ¾ litre.

Isn’t that just normal oil & filter replacement procedure?

If you ‘must’ why not trade it against a Citroen with a 2.0HDI?

why would you do that ?

cp yes but it must be done to avoid this sludge shite that **** the turbo (but every 6-8 thousand km) not the 12k miles that is in the hand book, also needs all the sludge cleaning out

The 2.0HDI doesn’t have the foibles of the 1.6?

what like a turbo ? you only have to google 2.0 HDI turbo failure.

all turbos are suceptable to this type of failure if servicing is not adhered to – unfortunantly many folk think servicing is optional.

Ah. What are the citroen petrols like?

For a bit more cash you could have my Touran…

http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/2005-vw-touran-20-tdi-sport-dsg#post-4554441

the dw8 diesel is the citroen engine to have for longevity – it has its folibles too but nothing like turbo failure , usualy camshaft sensor failure or the ECU needing flashed as it has a hicup and forgets what its supposed to do nothing catastrophic just a bit of diesel hammer – havnt had mine flashed yet , i just kill the engine and restart it.

Have a look at a VW Passat 2.0 TDI (55 reg) have had mine now for 2 years and the best car I have had (and I have had a few). Great for the family large enough for bikes in the boot with wheels off, and average 50 mpg over the 2 years which is not bad.

That era Passat also has many documented issues (no not just the parking brake)- that era 2.0TDI.

Loddrik I did say you’d be better sorting the sensors yourself first!

Honda Civic 1.4 2001 – 2005

3k ish should get a 50-60k Honda CR-V. Big, safe, towbars, roof rack all ok. Fuel is heavy’ish with around 30-35mph on open road. Handles likea whale and is not fast, but several bikes in back= no problem. had mine for 50k iles and is now hitting 110k, no problems

doesn’t fit my criteria what so ever though

This or something much like it

http://www.surreycountycars.co.uk/used-cars/honda-civic-1-6-i-vtec-se-executive-5dr-guildford-201250495532820

Loddrik I did say you’d be better sorting the sensors yourself first!

I actually agree with Hora. Lights on dash = MOT fail = expense for new owner.

A Mercedes W124 E-Class. You’ll easily find one for under £3k, mechanically very simple so things rarely go wrong with them, massive boot (can fit a bike and plenty of kit in the boot), nice enough to drive (not sporting or exciting, but competent and comfortable).

Maybe not the prettiest car to look at, but safe, reliable and practical. Still love my 1995 N-plate version, despite it being almost 18 years old now. Starts every time without fail and has never failed an MOT on anything other than a bulb or a tyre.

doesn’t fit my criteria what so ever though

Funny because when i was last looking for a car here were my criteria

Driving 14-15k a year (mostly country type roads) – not much urban at all
Need space for shopping, dogs, bikes, camping stuff
Safe
Economical
Can be diesel or petrol not fussed
Ability to have roof bars and a tow bar (preferable with towbar already fitted)
5 doors a must
Reliability a must
Not “clio” small
Doesn’t have to be an egomobile

and I’ve had a CR-V for a couple of years, am happy with it and would recommend it.

Skoda Fabia 1.4 16v Example

Upped my budget to £5k ish. Focus estate petrol?

http://www.w124.co.uk/carsforsale.php
You can even have Steve Coogans old wagon:
http://www.w124.co.uk/carsforsale.php?page=detail&id=200737

Should be able to get a face-lift Vectra for that.

I ran a 2006 2.2i SRi auto for a couple of years, 33mpg at a thrash (company car fuel) and £200 a 20k service. Plenty of space and handled far better than you’d think.

Trying to steer clear of diesel

I’m sure someone once told me these were supposed to be decent. Dunno whether they are myself though

http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201301144905969/sort/default/usedcars/price-to/5000/maximum-mileage/up_to_80000_miles/fuel-type/diesel/model/accord/make/honda/onesearchad/used/onesearchad/nearlynew/onesearchad/new/postcode/la12/radius/1501/page/1?logcode=p

I’d get a 2 ltr Non turbo forester,fits your requirements except for the economical bit ,but driven conservatively it shouldnt be too bad,or see if you can find one thats had a LPG conv.

hora – Member

People tend to sell when a car has numerous issues, one coming up etc etc rather than just ‘bored/time for a change’

Memo to all: Don’t buy a car off Hora…