- This topic has 15 replies, 12 voices, and was last updated 11 years ago by mlucas666.
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Cheapest way to 1×10 my bike?
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nickewenFree Member
Quite fancy going 1×10 on my hardtail as my next little bike project but don’t wanna break the bank. Not to fussed btwn shimano or sram for drivetrain. Shopping list (I think…) is:
> Front ring
> Shifter
> Rear mech
> Cassette
> Chain
> Chain Device (any help here would be great as they seem expensive!)Any suggestions would be warmly received. Cheers!
davidtaylforthFree MemberBuy all the parts from the cheapest shops you can find – they’re probably based on the continent!
Chain Device – just ride on smooth thrails/the road, then you wont need one.
mikewsmithFree MemberLook in classifieds, someone much have bot bored of it as 1×11 is coming
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Latest Singletrack VideosFresh Goods Friday 696: The Middlin...nickewenFree Member^^^ lol – This sure is cheap! and quick! It might just work…
Smooth trails aint my bag at the mo, but I’ll defo keep my eyes open on the classifieds for anyone getting bored of 10 speed.
mboyFree MemberChainring – Any unramped single ring will do. On One do a Stainless Steel ring for under £20, that would get my vote as it’ll last longer than an alu ring too.
Shifter – I prefer shimano, you may not. But even Deore is available 10spd now. Buy what you like/can afford. I got lucky and bought a pair of 10spd XT from CRC in a flood sale for £40, and sold the left hand shifter for £30!!! You may not be quite as lucky…
Rear Mech – Worthwhile getting XT here if going Shimano as you can get the medium cage version at this level, and this makes a difference in a single ring setup. SLX and Deore only available in long cage iirc. Not so sure for SRAM, but some are definitely available in medium/short cage config.
Cassette – Go for 11-36, no reason not to. If you go 11-32 or 11-34, you’re not gaining any benefit over running 9spd. What to get? Well aside from an ally lockring vs a steel one, I can’t tell any difference between XT level and SLX. Deore hasn’t got the spidered big rings, so will eat into an ally freehub, so probably go SLX or better. But SLX is almost as light as XT (just the lockring differs) and seems to last as long, so that’s what I’d get again.
Chain – Again SLX. Can’t tell any difference in performance or longevity between XT and SLX (I have one of each on my 2 bikes) so I’d buy SLX again as it’s cheaper. Shimano 10spd chains shift remarkably well too, had always been a SRAM man for 9spd but am sold on Shimano chains for 10spd now.
Chain Device – BIG can of worms here. You’ll hear all sorts of different opinions based mainly upon what kind of terrain people ride, and how hard they ride. Davidtaylforth has made a particularly tongue in cheek comment, but I know how he feels, as many times on this forum we have voiced the same opinions on chain devices only to be shouted down by people on here who probably ride much smoother than either of us do. I’ve tried a few different solutions, can only say that no matter what, IMO you need to run a chain device with a full retention system, that is to say a guide at the top and another at the bottom, not just a top only device. Some are very expensive, some less so, and there’s always 2nd hand too, but this is the one area I wish I didn’t scrimp first time round as I had to buy twice cos I bought cheap initially! If I had the budget, and was buying new, I’d buy a Straitline Silent Guide, but a 2nd hand E13 LG1 would also be top of my list if available.
WoodyFree MemberChainring – Any unramped single ring will do.
Doesn’t it have to be ‘narrow’? I’ve just had to change my Surly s/s ring as it was lifting the chain and that was only on a 1 x 9! Could be dodgy chain in my case though 😳
BTW Mark – how silent are those Straitlines as the racket is what puts me off. I’m using a Pauls at the moment and had no problems with ‘top only’ retention.
mboyFree MemberDoesn’t it have to be ‘narrow’?
No narrower than for 8 or 9spd. Yes narrower than a 1/8th BMX chain, but any 8/9/10spd 3/32″ chainring is fine.
Straitline silent guide… Not used one myself, but have only heard very good things from everyone I know who has. Running an MRP Lopes SL myself, pretty quiet but certainly not silent. It’s also a touch fragile (well the plastics are) which the Straitline isn’t by all accounts.
TooTallFree MemberGo 1 x 9
In business, a 90% solution is a pretty good one. What is the real price difference and performance difference between 1×9 and 1×10? It can’t really be worth the extra cash.
nickewenFree MemberCheers everyone. Thanks for the detailed information mboy – this is great. Just been adding stuff up in my head and I reckon I’m looking at £200+ to get it sorted.. I’ll have to wait till payday but I love a little project on the bikes to keep me going!
I like the look of that straitline guide but it is a tad pricey. Guess you get what you pay for. I’m running 2×9 on my full suss and the blackspire stinger is spot on for that but I fancy a ‘proper’ chain device if I’m going single ring up front.
Cheers
scaredypantsFull Membercheapest:
ultegra flat-bar 10sp shifter – 30 or 40 quid
10sp cassette – 30 to 50 quid ?done
Keep your old front mech as a chain guide or if you already have a bashring, could get a jumpstop or thingy to stop it dropping (I’ve had no dropped chains like this, though I do have a ss chainring)
RickosFree MemberFor a chain device check these out – http://www.raidiumchainguide.co.uk/
About £20 and it just fits onto your granny ring tabs. Check for clearance though. It worked great on my Chameleon, but it rubs the chainstay on my newly acquired BFe. What frame do you have?
traildogFree MemberIs your current 9 speed stuff worn out? If not, why not just go 1×9 with that? The only thing 10 speed is giving you is slightly less of a jump. You can still get a 36 bottom cog with 9 speed if that’s what you want.
I’m using 1×9 with a 1:1 bottom gear and it’s ok for most of the riding I go although a bit hard going in proper hills. I’m using a straitline silent guide and it is indeed quiet. Personally I would go for a full chainguide as this is the main reason I chose to use a single front ring. You can get a chainring cheapish, so the only real cost is a chain device.
Then once you’ve killed your 9 speed stuff, replace for 10 speed. Or 11 speed?
continuityFree MemberFor a chain device check these out – http://www.raidiumchainguide.co.uk/
IME these do not keep the chain on in techy descents.
I went 1×10, then ended up with a 34t front 36t back.
A 32t front 34t back would be pretty similar. The e.13 guiderings are the gold standard.
Then if you ride super techy trails, get a full guide. If not, an e.13 trs+ or ss plasma if you’re cheap. Don’t get a ss xcr.
nickewenFree MemberFrame is an Orange G3 – not even sure what year it is… Bought it off of the forum for £90 if I remember correctly but abslutely love it!
The 9 speed gear on the frame is getting a bit long in tooth… I think the rear mech is from my 2000 Kona Pahoehoe (man I loved that bike..) and the cassette, chain and chainring are looking ropey as.
Never seen those radium chain guides but part of the reason for going single ring up front is to get a proper chain device.
Cheers for the advice
mlucas666Free MemberDon’t overlook shimano Zee. Whilst intended for Gravity/DH, it seems to work very well for general trail 1×10 use as its based off 2013 SLX (shifter and rear mech) and deore (crank).
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