Any recommendations for a small petrol chainsaw. It will be used for garden work and smallish (6 inches dia) log cutting.

Either a Husqvarna 236 or Stihl MS180.

What Kuco says, plus safety gear.

I got a Husqvarna 236 recently to chop up a fair sized old willow that fell over following the heavy rains last December, to replace the ropey old petrol thing I had before. It’s ace, really good quality, powerful, easy to use (relatively speaking) and it was well up to the job of chopping up most of a 30 year old tree. Only the very bottom of the stump was too big (probably a ton of wood in that alone, it was a good 4-5 foot across with 3 trunks coming out of it). You’ll want a chain-sharpening kit, and gloves, head protection, etc. Don’t skimp.

Usual safety caveats apply. Don’t chop your own head off, etc. Someone will be along to tell you it’s too dangerous for mortals and you have to pay the professionals to do it for you shortly. Enjoy. 🙂

Unless your garden is too big I’d really recommend an electric chainsaw.

Despite having a petrol myself, I’d agree with Donald.

Husqvarna.

And petrol.

For 6 inches? Really? I’ll retract my earlier electric recommendation – get a bow saw.

As above bow saw or even folding saw. Useful round the garden too.

You’re in luck…lid late selling them this week! Bloody excellent bit of kit. Electric though and it goes thru logs like w knife thru butter at £49

If you really mean 6″, anything will do. If there is any chance that you’ll become the go-to guy for friends and family when they have a tree problem, get the biggest and best you can afford. Several trees later I have no regrets over my £500 Stihl which was overkill at the time.

I’d agree with Donald and nobeer, if you will always be close to a power socket. the small electric saws from the likes of Makita are well made and more powerful than the stihl and husk mentioned (i’ve got the stihl). they are also quiet and not smelly. however if away from power then the 236 and ms180 are plenty for what you say.

even small saws are deadly if an accident occurs so watch out, and be espeially careful of kickback. Wear the PPE. the most common injury is to legs, and they can be deadly if you hit a big artery, so chainsaw trousers are essential, as are boots. after that the next most common injury is to the left hand so chainsaw gloves are worth it in my view. foresters helmet gives you the essential eye prtection and a bit of kickback protection, plus the important ear defenders that you’ll need with the petrol saws.

saw, trousers, boots, gloves, helmet will cost around £300 to £350.

Good Friday action….

If you go petrol, a spare chain is handy, keep it sharp. Use Stihl super 2 stroke mix (the green stuff) as it has fuel stabiliser in it…and its still a very very good idea to run the saw empty each time, and try not to leave mix around for years…it goes off and can kill your carb, plus the ethanol can kill more of your carb, fuel lines and other stuff. Oh nad don’t forget chain/bar oil.

Stihl MS171. Designed to be entry level, occasional use chainsaw. Recently brought one myself and can’t fault it, especially at £165.

Thanks guys

I would need a petrol due to remote working (log collection). I’ll check out the Husqvarna and Stihl saws. Maybe 6 inches was an under estimate….for once!

I will be investing the nessesary PPE stuff too.

cheers

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Another stihl MS 171 here, useful to get a saw with a nearby dealer for spares or repairs etc.

Stihl or Husqvarna – it’s not worth scrimping when the stuff these guys make is ‘so’ damn good.

FR Jones & Son down in that London always used to be superb to deal with (I used to work for a large Forestry supplier) and well worth having a chat to. Justin the owner is a straight up kinda dude that won’t oversell you on something you don’t need.

http://www.frjonesandson.co.uk/

Local dealer will have trade in saws that they’ll have given the once-over which will be fine for domestic use and you’ll probably get a better saw out of it, something like Husqvarna XP series.

Otherwise, the new ones above will be fine if it has to be new.

Sharpening. More important than the saw.
Chainsaw gloves are cumbersome.

+1 vote for f r jones. I got my saw there, but then i was able to pop in as they are not far from me. you’ll not find a saw cheaper elsewhere either.

Bookmark

Yeah great, get a husqvarna as everyone suggests.
Or, if you only want it for garden use get an electric one for 1/4 of the price and much less hassle.

I have a Stihl MS170 for use at home and can borrow my dads MS230 for when I need a bit more.

Mine was a trade in at a local store, my friend works there and put it to one side as soon as it came in, I only paid £80 for it.

Electric saws…
The Aldi one is pretty good while it lasts. Inside there are gears that turn the motor drive 90 degrees to drive the chain, that’s why the body of the saw looks thin. The steel gear wheel on the motor does not play nicely with the aluminium crown wheel that drives the chain….. It’s cheap for a reason.

A little more cash gets something where the chain is driven directly off the motor, like Ryobi for instance. It will last a lot longer.

People keep recommending 170 and 180 but a bit extra and you will get a 181 which is a professional with a stronger and nicer build

If you’re an occasional user it might also be worth looking at oregons power sharp system – different tooth profile that can be honed by running against a stone, rather than requiring a file to sharpen. It’s more metal to pull through the cut but the payoff is that its sharp metal.

And +1 on PPE – chainsaw accidents are rarely minor.

Chainsaw gloves are cumbersome.

I’ve never found them to be a problem cumbersome wise my only issue is if they get wet then they can become slippy.

If you take a size 9 I can sell you a Pair of bnib Arbortec Lightning waterproof boots £55 posted.

If you feel like a project you could buy one of the Farmertec/hutzl chainsaw aftermarket parts and build your own

The purists will scoff because it’s not a macho brand but I’ve had excellent use from a 14″ bar, 33cc Ryobi saw that I bought for about £180 off the web a few years ago. It’s reliable and deals with quite big stuff easily as long as the chain is sharp. Luckily my neighbour works at a local chainsaw specialist so he sharpens the chains for me.

A nice instructional film here.

[video]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XU-kyap7IAE[/video]

APF

I’ve got a few months old husqvarna 135 bought for light duties. Used a couple of times but just bought a Stihl 044 so my 026 is now light duties so the husky is going.
Yours for £160 posted, complete with original manuals and box.
Email thintom at hotmail dot com
Nice saw just surplus now.

I’m still using my Dad’s 25/30-year old Black and Decker 14″ electric. Never missed a beat. New chain when I got it from my brother last year. Wouldn’t be surprised if that’s the 2nd it’s ever had!

Big bowsaw is quicker if you’re only doing a few cuts. If I’m cutting a big pile of trunks/branches to 30cm chunks, chainsaw everytime, please.

Silky Sugoi is quicker than the bowsaw, also amazing for working with above the ground. Saw and leg sheath felt a bit OTT when I bought it, but it’s so quick to cut, light and easy to handle and so nice to have hands free climbing. Definitely got my money’s worth out of that one!

Also got a 5m pole, which the silky zip-ties to the end of. (£50 Darlac Pro + zipties is a lot more palatable than several hundred quid for a silky pole saw) taken down 10m trees without stepping off the ground, just used the chainsaw for the trunk from the ground.

Kuco

I’ll take you up on the offer of the Arbortec boots please.

wkdoddsATgmail.com

cheers

tiggs121 sent email.

I’ve just bought an electric chainsaw for light garden duties. I’m looking for some PPE – is the basic stuff ok or do I need to spend big?

They have to meet standards, fast/slow chainspeed, front/all round protection.
Extra spend gets better fit, movement, lighter materials – stuff that is worth the extra if you spend half your life in them. For an occasional user, they’ll always feel like salopettes.

Ok – so as long as I get something kitemarked it’ll be safe, the rest is comfort/brand/looks.

Pretty much, Type A is fronts, Type C is all round.
Class 1 is probably most common chain speed rating, suits most saws apart from big saws (or the tinkered with).

Thanks – will get buying.

I got a cheap set off eBay (shop not 2nd hand) which seem fine. Gloves wore out and replaced with a better set.