I want to know what peoples opinions are on centrelock disks/hubs. Some earlier stuff I read was that they weren’t overly impressive, ie coming loose so better off sticking to the old 6 bolt style.

I see them more and more on newer bikes so have they got any better?

I had them on a set of OEM shimano wheels that came with a bike, I liked them, yes you need a casette lock ring tool to fit and remove them, but it’s quick and painless and mine certainly never came loose. I rate the system.

I think centre lock is a better system but 6 bolt is still the standard so it’s much easier and cheaper to buy disks for.

I had them on a set of OEM shimano wheels that came with a bike, I liked them, yes you need a casette lock ring tool to fit and remove them, but it’s quick and painless and mine certainly never came loose. I rate the system.

Pretty much the same here. No problems with them coming loose, and much more straightforward to swap discs around. I don’t really know why they aren’t more widespread, though I suspect it’s a Shimano design that other manufacturers would have to licence or something basely capitalist like that, rather than just because it’s not the best design.

Have not had any problems with mine and if centrelock was more common I’d never buy 6 bolt again.

The rotors fit onto the hubs in a very satisfying way AND you can fit freeza rotors wohhhhhhhhhhhhhhh

Centerlock is a pain if you travel a lot as it’s another tool to pack for the flight bag (or 2 as there are 2 standard sizes depending on the axle) t25 6 bolt for me and a couple of spare sets of bolts to keep in the evoc.

In principle I like centrelock, it’s neat, and quick…but I’ve had two come loose, one of them on an Alfine hub, try fixing that while out on the trail with only a multi-tool.

There’s also nothing wrong with 6 bolt, and it’s more universal, and has some fastener redundancy built in and uses standard metric bolt sizes so consequently I always go for 6 bolt unless unavoidable (Alfine)

Some good points here, and more positive towards centrelock than I thought there would be, but equally good points which I recognise towards standard t25 bolts and repairs.

I built a bike recently for someone with them on and it was a pleasure to install the rotors compared to twiddling with 6 bolts.

compared to twiddling with 6 bolts.

Workshop side a cordless drill and T25 bit does it fairly quick

Yeah this is something I wish I had in the workshop every time I do this! Was looking at them the other day too but didn’t want to commit to the purchase until I looked them up a bit more (habit of mine). I’m thinking of getting some Dt Swiss 240s on xm 401s so have the option of going either/or on the hub style, but that’s along side wondering whether to go down the route of straight pull or traditional. Too many choices out there!

You can adapt a centrelock hub to take 6-bolt rotors, you can’t adapt a 6-bolt hub to take centrelock so it’s a no brainer for me, centrelock all the way, plus Freeza rotors look the nuts.

So long as you fit everything correctly and tighten the lockrings up properly (i.e, with a torque wrench set to 40nm) they won’t come loose.

Strong argument there hatter, and yes those rotors do look pretty sick

I’ve used both and Centrelock is the much better system in my opinion. Much easier and quicker to use. No fiddling around with myriad little screws, risk of cross threading etc. Centrelock fixings do screw on pretty tight (40nm) and they incorporate a thin wavy washer type thing to help keep them secure. If you are worried about it coming loose then a couple of drops of Loctite on the threads is all you need for peace of mind.

However to fit/remove them you need a cassette lock ring tool for qr wheels, and an HT bottom bracket tool if you are running larger diameter axles e.g. 15mm Maxle at the front. Not an issue for me, but could be for those who don’t want to pack additional tools when travelling. Also 6 bolt is the more commonly available system as many other manufacturers don’t want to pay Shimano the licence fee for using their system. There could also be a minor weight benefit to 6 bolt as there appears to be a bit less less to them.

On the trail I doubt if you would need to remove a disc – cue many tales of emergency on-trail disc removal 🙂

I’ve gone to centrelock on all my bike for travel. I hated sitting there trying to loosen and tighten those T25 bolts, skinning my knuckles.

It is much easier to use, and I’ve not had any come undone on my MTB or roadie, both using DT Swiss hubs.

I concur with most of the above. If I had the option I’d always choose CL hubs/wheels, but as it happens because of what has been available I currently only have one set.

I’ve had two come loose, one of them on an Alfine hub, try fixing that while out on the trail with only a multi-tool.

I won’t try fixing it on the trail, as I torque the lockring to the specified torque (pretty **** tight if you’re doing it without a torque wrench). I can’t really see it ever coming loose, whenever I’ve had one off to service things I haven’t had even a hint of it loosening.

That said most of my hubs are 6 bolt as it’s more common even if it’s a bit more of a faff removing/refitting rotors.

I won’t try fixing it on the trail, as I torque the lockring to the specified torque (pretty **** tight if you’re doing it without a torque wrench). I can’t really see it ever coming loose, whenever I’ve had one off to service things I haven’t had even a hint of it loosening.

Well lucky for you 🙂

The first one did come loose as a result of not doing it up tightly enough in the first place so it was user error, point being I couldn’t fix my earlier error while on the trail. fixability is just as important as reliability sometimes.

Second time seems to have a been a result of excessive vibration and a damaged wave washer and cracked lockring (one probably causing the other), with any luck it’ll never happen again but that doesn’t negate the point that trail-side fixes are harder, and user error and freak occurrences do happen, and I’d rather not have my ride ruined by either.

You’ve also presumably never suffered a massive blow to a rotor bending it to the point where it’s impossible to straighten sufficiently to ride home without massive binding and damage to the brake? I have, but that time I had a 6 bolt rotor so just removed it and finished the ride on one brake. (Also one of the reasons I went back to rim brakes on my trials bike)

Uncommon for sure, but I like kit that is not just reliable, but also easily repairable or worked on so that if the thing that should never happen happens I have options. It’s all very well saying the locking ring *should* never come loose, but either through circumstance or operator error it can, and even if it’s my own stupid fault I like to be able to deal with it on the trail, or help a riding buddy out if his does etc.

6 bolt disc rotors can survive a bolt loss or two, can be fixed with bottle cage bolts and a multi tool if needs be and are cheap and easy, I did say I like centrelock, I just don’t find it practical enough for it to be my default choice.

Centrelock hubs with adaptors and 6-bolt rotors seems to be a good option. It obviously shouldn’t be, but there you go.

You’ve also presumably never suffered a massive blow to a rotor bending it to the point where it’s impossible to straighten sufficiently to ride home without massive binding and damage to the brake?

Could always take the caliper off

Could always take the caliper off

yes I could, and then tied or taped it somewhere to stop it flapping, as it was it was better to remove the rotor and stick it in my bag.

but don’t get bogged down in the minutia, it’s just an anecdote to demonstrate a point 🙂