Looks like most of the rotor manufacturers now do CenterLock variants. The tools to attach/detach are probably in most peoples toolboxes already. Looks like the rotors are a few quid more.

Are they together with the hubs any lighter? Hubs seem a bit ligher, rotors a bit heavier.

Which way would you go?

I think I hate removing/replacing rotors more than any other job. Even when travelling with a bike bag, I prefer to leave them on and disk damaging them than go through the 12 bolts of misery.

So from that point of view, centrelock is a better idea, but ultimately, choice of hubs means I’ve never considered it an option.

matters **** all IMO.

I have seen the little flanges where the bolts thread into crack on six bolt hubs so in that respect centre lock may be better. I have used six bolt for years and have had no problems though.

Anyone happen to know what perceived problem shimano was actually trying to solve with CenterLock?

honourablegeorge – Member

I think I hate removing/replacing rotors more than any other job. Even when travelling with a bike bag, I prefer to leave them on and disk damaging them than go through the 12 bolts of misery.
You’ve never set up a front mech from scratch have you?

centre lock seems like a better idea to me. im not bothered either way, but 6 bolt seems to be leading the way still

Anyone happen to know what perceived problem shimano was actually trying to solve with CenterLock?

Much like pressfit b/bs – one bolt for the bike manufacturers to do up, rather than 6.

bigyinn – Member

You’ve never set up a front mech from scratch have you?

I have four bikes, and none of them has a front mech. But I do see what you’re saying.

You’ve never set up a front mech from scratch have you?

Can probably do that as quickly as changing two 6 bolt rotors… though I do use an electric screwdriver to relieve the tedium.

Edit: Just noticed Hope don’t do centerlock versions of pro2. That’s most of STW on 6 bolt then!

A splined interface is a better engineered solution, 6 bolt is easier to manufacture, of course you don’t have to get new rotors if you buy a splined hub, you can just purchase a 6 bolt ISO – Splined adapter and carry on riding…

I have a nice old Bulb which still works well it’s a reasonable demonstration of the durability of a much coarser spline in long term operation IMO…

Of course it’s not worth getting too excited over either, they cost a similar amount and work about as well as each other in practice…

I don’t understand why removing/installing 6-bolt disks is a chore.

I don’t understand why removing/installing 6-bolt disks is a chore.

I suppose it can be a little tedious. Also do you clean the bolt threads and apply new threadlock? 🙂

Edit: And I have on a few occasions sheared the head off a bolt, even when using a torque wrench, so no risk of that with centerlock.

Anyone happen to know what perceived problem shimano was actually trying to solve with CenterLock?

Probably ham fisted home mechanics rounding out rotor bolts.

One of my front centre lock rotors used to vibrate under braking which was pretty annoying. There was very slight movement in the rotor/hub interface. Solved it with a few rounds of ptfe tape but annoying all the same.

Not sure if that helps or not.

Hope used to be splined before 6 bolt took off.
I’ve still got a set of bulbs and sport hubs.

Never that impressed with the splines though as the design was poor in my opinion.
The rear was a properly spline but not many splines and the front was a weird jigsaw pattern.

Never understood why they didn’t go for a very fine spline like the current Shimano centre lock design.

Unless done up extremely tight my front one developered play because the fit was not tight.
They were also a pain to tighten up. The lock ring was only small and difficult to do with that 2 pronged tool.

I’d forgotten about those old Hope hubs.

Shimano seem to have the lock ring thing sorted too using the cassette tool or the hollowtech BB tool, so shouldn’t be too fiddly. Though I’m much more likely to have a T25 key on me than one of those tools when out on the trail.

Other than a teeny bit of occasional convenience I really can’t see a reason to go centerlock.

centerlock looks like a really good solution to a problem that plagued precisely zero people.

good idea, NO NEED.

I pretty much ALWAYS do my rotor bolts up with an electric driver because i am lazy. It has a built in torque clutch, so it cant over do it, and the “buzzing” from the clutch actually seats them really nicely.
(top tip: a clutch driver is also really good for getting stuborn bolts out, due to the vibration)