Just looking at the new Jeffsy model and the building instructions. At the end, it advises against clamp type carriers due to possible damage of carbon models.
Same on Cannondale instructions.
I can see why this might be a problem as I do ratchet my Thule 591 quite tight on my alloy frame bike and the same effort might crush a tube but I wondered if anyone had actually goosed a frame on a rack?

I carry hundreds of bikes every year on “clamp” type racks. A fair proportion are carbon. None have been damaged.

However, if you are the sort of person who can’t touch a Presta valve without breaking it, then maybe look at an alternative.

I think the advice is aimed at super lightweight road bikes rather than mountain bikes.

I believe the 598 has a torque limiter on the clamp to avoid this situation though.

Should be no issue on the 951, loads of people use them on carbon bikes, bigger issue would be clamping where you are hanging the weight/preventing it swinging on a rear rack.
As for the Thule style clamp firmly but don’t over clamp, the jaws should grip and support it firmly

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if your rack has the flexibility, you could clamp on the seat tube as the seat post is inside it, or clamp top tube but near the seat tube junction where there will be more strength.

I’ve seen a few road bikes let go after being clamped on a rack (one customer did his second whilst the first was being assessed for repair or scrap). I wouldn’t risk being careful of how tight I clamped it if it needed to be secure enough to not move around at 60mph, but then I also won’t risk putting it on public display on a car either.

No problems with my old mojo HD in a thule 591 for a few years

Could always buy a rack doesn’t clamp on the frame and then not worry so much.
Yakima and Inno do some.
If you go towbar fix then have a look at ours.

Auxtail

A friend’s Santa Cruz Blur developed some “paint cracks” around the downtube from a 591 clamp, used without the protector.

The newer 598 should be fine, as it has an integrated soft rubber pad.

If you have the pennies I’d treat yourself to a 598, they have enough minor improvements to make the overall package a very nice upgrade over a 591. If sticking with a 591, just don’t be a ham-fisted oaf and you’ll be fine.

I also won’t risk putting it on public display on a car either.

You cannot avoid publicly displaying the fact you own a bike unless you never take it outside.

Thule do a 4 inch long plastic thing you can wrap round the tube being clamped to spread the load a bit.

On the odd occasion I’ve needed to put my bike on one of the clamp-type carriers I’ve used one of the Thule carbon frame protectors mentioned up there, not overtightened it and used a normal fabric strap as back-up (downtube is quite square).

Those fork mount racks seem to be the reccomended option for carbon, but it does to be a lot of low down leverage on an axle and dropout.

“Possible damage”, clamp type carriers should be ok unless you’re naturally ham fisted.

Although… I once bought a 2nd hand alloy frame bike that had the down tube squashed slightly due to a gorilla tightening up such a clamp, so it can happen, but that’s the only one I’ve seen

Does this mean you’re actually getting a new bike? 😯

Nearly, I’ve got the PIN number through, just need the actual card.
There might be a sticking point as Mrs has noticed it’s a 0% purchase card and she’s seen a fiat 500 she likes. 😯

Back on topic, I would expect any warranty claim would be a tough fight if there was a frame failure at the clamping mark and tell-tale clamping signs present.

598 should be fine but if you are worried then Thule do have the new Upride. Its not out yet but will be available in a few weeks

There might be a sticking point as Mrs has noticed it’s a 0% purchase card and she’s seen a fiat 500 she likes.

Who’s wearing the trousers at this point.
She’s got a car already.
Cant go camping with a 500.

She’s got a car that might soon become my new company car if I take the cash allowance.
Company car Tax is a minefield.

Wow, that new Thule is a piece of kit.
The fork mount ones look ok for a 20mm fork.

Although I like the Thule Carbon protector, you can achieve exactly the same with an old piece of cut inner tube and not doing the clamp up too tight.

The bike needs to be held in place, not secured with a death-grip.

There might be a sticking point as Mrs has noticed it’s a 0% purchase card and she’s seen a fiat 500 she likes.

she sounds faulty to me send her back for replacement

The bike needs to be held in place, not secured with a death-grip.

This. And repeat with regards to workshop stands.

As the proud owner of a new (carbon) bike, I’m looking at these again.

both the Thule axle mount versions seem to get a few negative reviews due to damaging the axle or loading the dropouts incorrectly.

im erring on the monstrosity of the wheel clamper or the 598 with the carbon protection as a back up. The 598 does look to have a much greater hook to it to provide a bit of a block to the bike moving.

The only possible downside is that the cables run u dear thto downtube so might get in the way.

ive never given it a second though when using friends racks .

my ibis hasnt died yet .

judging by the marks in the paint on the downtube im not the first person to use a downtube rack clamp neither.

Considering how hard I’ve applied the downtube to trees/rocks/ my head before without it imploding I don’t give clamping my Nomad in to a 591 a second thought…

I’ve been using a Thule thruride for the past 7 months for a carbon Jeffsy 29er. As OP has stated YT specifically state no frame clamps so no real option but to source a frame clamp alternative for me. Researched the thruride and picked up on the possible axle damage from metal clamp concerns….I wasn’t concerned about any cosmetic surface damage to the thru axle because (as far as I’ve read) it’s job is to hold the hub against the innners….no spinning roll itself as that’s down to hub bearings and so axle surface state (within reason) is irrelevant. I hadn’t clocked the perhaps more relavent concerns about fork lowers flex and movement of threaded inserts on axle without a hub to lock against and stabilise until now.

One posible Jeffsy solution for this thruride shortcoming is a 20mm to 15mm sleeve adapter that both protects the axle from direct clamp force and gives the fork lowers a hub substitute to clamp onto. USA based MTB tools do a boost and non boost version available directly from website or via eBay…this is the non boost:

https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/MTB-Tools-Mountain-Bike-20mm-Thru-Axle-to-15mm-Thru-Axle-Adapter-for-100mm-Fork/252265312182?hash=item3abc2f2fb6:g:vVoAAOSw9mFWNiTy

this was recommended in a lengthy thread on this topic here:

http://forums.mtbr.com/cars-bike-racks/thule-thruride-535-new-model-anyone-using-969924.html

The downside is that you compromise security…..the 15mm thru axle is no longer locked in via the clamp mechanism and could be simply slid out to remove the bike. I’m currently sourcing one as never leave the bike unattended on roof anyway

I’ve found the thruride great to use and rock solid on motorways. Specs state cleared for up to 140km/h…..and no more peering up nervously at a wobbly  front wheel 591 mounting ….much easier to load on and off the vehicle and a lower profile that’s made a small difference to fuel consumption versus my old bike on a Thule 591. Just remember you need room in the car for the front wheel…may not suit everyone.  Hope that’s helpful.

591 is fine, it’s the older Thule design that used a lever to clamp the sides of the tube that had problems. The mechanical advantage could crush a tube. The 591 just locks down onto the tube. I often lock mine through a water bottle cage.

Lightweight carbon road bikes have travelled up and down the length of France half a dozen times without issue.