What the VW book says and what’s possible are two different things. You can for example (just about) change the camshaft position sensor without removing the cambelt, saving about £200, but it’s a bit of a thrutch.

Exterior designers say car has to look like this, lights have to go here.
Safety people say you need to make it like this
NCAP pedestrian safety people say you need to make it like this
Headlight units have already been designed on a bench
Packaging engineers then have to fit it all in with all these constraints

Agreed.
However Volvo manage to make it a ‘remove one retention pin’, lift out headlamp unit, replace bulb, replace headlamp, pop retention pin back in.

while i enjoy the berlingos – lift bonnet remove rear cap , change bulb , replace cap close bonnet.

UPDATE 2

Charging the battery for a couple of hours has allowed the electric handbrake to be released, and some of the lights on the dash have gone out. Not all, mind. Haynes manual arrived today. Getting stuck in next week…

I think its only Renaults that are so badly designed that it takes 45mins to change a lightbulb.

Mx5’s are the same. I ended up taking it to the garage instead after the bulb i’d fitted blew within about an hour of fitting.

On the other hand, my octavia’s headlight units unclip and slide out of the car completely. You could change the bulbs from the comfort of your sofa if desired.

I think its only Renaults that are so badly designed that it takes 45mins to change a lightbulb.

Nope – side lights on a Honda Jazz are the same. So much faff that I ordered LED bulbs to fit instead because they wouldn’t blow. Except I didn’t test them first and, although they work, they’re a slightly chavvy blue white colour… :/

To the OP -One thing to consider for your engine swap adventure would be to contact some mobile mechanics and ask if they one is interested in a days work with you helping – should be good value compared to a garage labour bill – and you could get some serious results with decent help.
You can discuss with them what stage you need help with – ie – you dismantle and remove all the ancillaries and bumper/rad etc . Then get them to come in to help with the engine removal/swap (pop a clutch in there if possible) .

I think its a big con sold by the car industry to protect servicing income.

It most certainly is. Oil and filter changes on the first Mondeo’s required a lift as the filter was at the rear of the engine under part of the block/head with no access from above. (Unless you had very small, strong hands).
Mrs S Note is similar with the filter being barely visible from above.

My ratty Saab 900 just requires long arms and laying on the floor to do an oil change.

Good tip. Estimated cost for a mobile mechanic would be less than £400, so it’s a good fall-back option if I get overwhelmed.

“It most certainly is. Oil and filter changes on the first Mondeo’s required a lift as the filter was at the rear of the engine under part of the block/head with no access from above. (Unless you had very small, strong hands).
Mrs S Note is similar with the filter being barely visible from above.”

no lift required – just a jack and some axle stands.

Nope – side lights on a Honda Jazz are the same. So much faff that I ordered LED bulbs to fit instead because they wouldn’t blow. Except I didn’t test them first and, although they work, they’re a slightly chavvy blue white colour… :/

I presume they are the same as the civic I.e. through the wheel arch liner. A bit of a faff the first time then a two minute job when you get the hang of it?

“contact some mobile mechanics and ask if they one is interested in a days work with you helping“

If I was a mechanic, I’d charge extra if the customer was insisting on “helping” !

I presume they are the same as the civic I.e. through the wheel arch liner. A bit of a faff the first time then a two minute job when you get the hang of it?

E90 3 series is the same for the low beam. Wheel off job for me but my wrist joints aren’t very flexible.

So you have never had to work underneath a car on your own/
Constantly rolling out to get a different socket extension , wobble drive, ratchet spanner? I would always rather have any male person there with adequate man points to hand me the 30cm ,1/2″ extension and driver than constantly be in and out from underneath a car.

Yesi have thanks

But i tend to load up a tool tray with what i think ill need and head under the car.

Running back and forth is kept to a minimum.

It’s good exercise, that.

I think its only Renaults that are so badly designed that it takes 45mins to change a lightbulb.

And one more…
Mk2 Megane’s were like this.
Mk3’s much easier.
Lift bonnet. 2 bolts and a “pin” that pulls out.
The pin even has a recess that fits the bolts. Headlamp unit then pulls out.
Getting the unit back in is another story.

You can change golf mk4 side light without bumper removal just need long nose pliers and small hands help.

First time did lead to a little blood loss though

So you have never had to work underneath a car on your own/

I’ve never worked on a car in my life. I think i’ve changed a wheel once… Other than that, cars are not something i spanner..

Give to a man, collect.. pay… drive home.

Of course I have. And I daresay a professional mechanic has too seeing as it’s a large part of their job. I stand by my point, and Trail Rat’s pic 🙂

Now then. Some progress. Engine is on the point of getting lifted out, having removed the front of the car, disconnected all the tubes (and labelled them!), taken drive shafts out and disconnected the exhaust from the back of the turbo (by far the trickiest bit).

Most of the engines I can see for sale have had a lot of bits removed – turbo, wiring loom etc. I’ve found one which does at least have the A/C pump, water pumps, oil pump etc still in place. Swapping the turbo doesn’t seem too hard and the wiring loom ought to be ok provided I label everything well. I’m taking a bit of a risk that the timing belt is going to be ok, at least for long enough to get it to a garage for a service.

Any tips for things to pay attention to would be gratefully received. Haynes manual has been pretty good so far. ‘Fitting is the reverse of removal’…

Good on you.

I’ve swapped out an engine before its easier than it looks.

I bought a hoist for £99 and sold it when I was finished for £110, people need to check ebay properly.

Swapping out Turbo’s is pretty straight forward, especially off the car.

Clean your intercooler out while its off the car too.

I got the same hoist I expect, £100. Plan to sell it after.

It’s been ok so far. Getting the exhaust off the turbo was a pig, and unless I do something differently it’s going to be impossible reconnect. Really wanted to avoid removing the whole steering sub-frame as it’s not that high off the ground. Otherwise though it seems to have been designed with the mechanic in mind – large bits come off whole, eg headlights, radiator, a/c condensor, intercooler, bonnet catch assembly etc all off in one lump.

Other than the turbo, I’m hoping the engine control module doesn’t throw a fit when I plug it back in.

No tips, but bravo for attempting this!

Go for it man!
I’ve done a clutch and cam belts on my old Mazda 323.
The worst bit is turning the key for the first time…
Just work methodically and take your time.

As bigyinn, while it’s all in bits it’s definitely worth doind the belts and water pump (if needed) yourself, you’ve got this far without destorying anything, you might as well make it a proper job and save yourself some £££ into the bargain!

The worst bit is turning the key for the first time

Ensure there are no surprised by turning the engine over by hand first.

I am actually dead jealous that you get to work on an engine out of the car. Must be so flippin easy.

Don’t forget to put new headlamp bulbs in while you have the engine out 🙂

I’m taking a bit of a risk that the timing belt is going to be ok, at least for long enough to get it to a garage for a service.

Mmmm. . . You’ve got (or are getting a replacement engine) so why not do the timing belt yourself?

Also make sure the replacement is exactly the same (BKC, BJB, BLS or whatever your’s is).

Hth
Mark

I was under the impression timing belt needed special tools, but just read up and seems sensible to do that at the same time. Not that I’m planning on hanging onto this car for very much longer…

It’s a BXE which has gone, and I believe BKC is essentially the same and perhaps more readily available.

Just need holding pins for these engines, available online.

You may wish to read up on whether or not you need to chnage the tensioner stud, I understand it’s controversial. Also check the kit when you get it because on mine, the tensioner pulley had the wrong sized hole and there was no easy way on ECP to identify which I needed.

Flush/renew the turbo oil pipes – debris could be in there from the blowup.
Likewise check oil cooler – although I think they are integral to the oil filter on these.
Fill with water – not antifreeze – until you know there are no leaks – then drain and refill with the expensive antifreeze .
Do have a look at the belt/tensioner/water pump.

well done – good luck

If you are getting a timing belt get the full kit that should include a water pump. The pump runs on the timing belt, if it fails it takes the belt out.

Forget ECP kits, just get a Gates kit and be done with it. My Civic had a Gates belt with Isuzu stamped over it and then Honda stamped over that. With a premium added each time.

Well done again for trying though, if nothing else you will have learned a lot about working on a car and even if the job doesn’t work out you will be no worse off than when you started and have a lot more knowledge and confidence for it.

Oh, and use a torque wrench!

Or just get the genuine VAG kit from TPS – cheap and has all the bits including the studs.

“Genuine VAG” will most likely be Gates!

Indeed it may well be, but it could be conti. I seem to remember that the VAG kit has a few more bits than the aftermarket ones – could be wrong though.

even if the job doesn’t work out you will be no worse off than when you started

Other than the £600 I’ve just dropped on a secondhand ebay engine! Oh well, fingers crossed. Might try to sell bits off the old engine once it’s out – cylinder head and injectors, pumps and alternator ought to be ok.

Looks like cam belt and water pump will be about £100 which isn’t too bad. Will have a feel of the tensioner to see if that needs replacing too. Anyone got a TPS log-in they’d be willing to lend?! Website says not available to general public.

Got myself a torque wrench so sorted there 🙂

Other than the £600 I’ve just dropped on a secondhand ebay engine!

Well no, cos if it fetched £600 on ebay from you, you’ll be able to ebay it again and get your £600 back.

You can go to TPS and buy parts – there’s one in Cardiff. They didn’t like serving me, but they did.

I’d replace the tensioner too. Not worth the risk for a cheap part. Do it properly.