Is there any feasible reason why a stud in a car hub could not be replaced, meaning the entire hub has to be replaced?

The background: car went in for a MOT, and apparently one wheel nut was basically falling off – no thread left on the stud. I blame Kwik-Fit who did tyres etc about 6 months ago. Main dealer says that the whole hub has to be replaced, at a cost of £440.

I’m not a car mechanic – but looking into it the studs are replaceable – standard parts, cost about £8, look as if they’re pressed in to the hub shell from the back. Is there any way it could be so seized in that it’s impossible to replace?

I’m thinking that I get the hub, and go at it with a big press – worst case I can bung it on the milling machine and bore out the knackered stud.

Or or am I missing something and should cough up the money?

Thanks 😉

I’d be sorting it myself somehow.

If you can’t press a new one in then re-drill the hub, tap it and machine up a new stud with thread both ends and use some strong threadlock to stop it coming out when you undo the nut.

You could just glue the nut on for now and sort it when you have the MOT (drive carefully of course) 😉

failing what andy says a hub from a scrappies must be a shout

Ben, What car?, alloy hub or steel?, front hub or rear?, drive wheel/steering? or static hub?, alloy wheel?, tapered wheel nut or radius?.

Without the above information any reply you get is worth **** all in the real world, but as this is stw then i guess anything goes….. i’m sure you know that from experience on here though 😉

It’s a ForFour – steel hub I think (didn’t see it with the wheel off), right front wheel. The stud is a straight M12x1.5 thread, found lots online that say they’re for our car, that look like this:

will probably press out easily.

A smart 4/4? aww ben………i feel for you when it comes to dealer mechanical work, they really take the piss on what is meant to be a cheap to run car.

I had to replace the hub assembly on one of my neighbours smart 4/4’s last year as her wheel bearing was rumbling – i couldn’t buy the bearing on it’s own and had to purchase the entire hub assembly at a cost of £210 and that was at supposed trade price so i guess they have priced it accordingly as they will have to adjust or at least check/adjust camber and tracking afterwards.

I see no reason why the wheel stud could not be pressed out?, perhaps they are worried that by removing the hub assembly to facilitate the removal of the wheel stud in a hydraulic press may disrupt the wheel bearing as it will most likely separate from the bearing shell on the axle shaft upon removal – they could be justified in their way of thought but i see no reason why the individual wheel stud could not be pressed out, whether or not this may disrupt the integrity of the wheel bearing if the hub has to be removed to do this is a another matter – can you gain access to remove/press out the stud without removal of the hub assembly?.

.

Looking at this pic, there should be a point where I can just malky the stud out from the front?

As long as there’s space to wiggle the stud out, that’s all I need isn’t it?

Doesnt look like you can get the stud out without removing the hub: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Smart-Forfour-1-5-DCi-Driver-Side-Front-Wheel-Hub-with-ABS-/141171635303?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item20de7c3467

GSF do a hub with bearing for £112 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Front-Wheel-Bearing-Hub-for-Smart-Forfour-2004-2006-/301083651451?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Car+Make%3ASmart&hash=item4619fbed7b

But what about pressing out the whole bearing and hub from the drive shaft side to stop it separating with a puller on the disc side?

edit: maybe between the caliper holes. Worth a go I guess. Do you need to press it in from the other side or will tightening up the wheel nut be sufficient to pull it into place (without stripping it again!)

If there is sufficient clearance, then as you say i’d just attempt to malky it out wi a sharp whack from a lump hammer, the only thing that would raise a concern for me is possible shock transference through the track rod end/steering gear but i’m aware you know what you’re doing mechanically so it’d be obtuse of me to offer any advice otherwise.

Go on, Gie it laldy!

nothing useful to add other than – i like a good bit of scottish mechanics – malky – not being from the west – thats a word ive no heard in years !

I don’t do much with cars, but the M22 studs on trucks tap out easily enough, as do the M16 studs on Land Rovers.

Just whack it with a hammer until it moves.
Don’t worry about damaging the track rod end or wheel bearing, they get far worse when the car bumps up a curb.

Looking at your picture above, I’d cut a hole in the back plate if I had to, then glue a patch on afterwards.

Yes, it’s basically identical to a Mitsubishi Colt, and looking at pics of them I’m 95% certain it’ll fit out the back at the caliper mount.

othing useful to add other than – i like a good bit of scottish mechanics – malky – not being from the west – thats a word ive no heard in years !

Just gie it laldy, son! 😉

If you are really worried about hitting on the car it shouldnt be too hard to whip the whole hub carrier off so you can get it into your bench vice or pop a steel wheel on with the other 3 nuts and drop it back to the floor and then smack it out. Might help a little..maybe. Reminds me of putting a steel wheel back on to help crack open the hub nuts with a very long wrench while someone stands on the brake pedal.

Oh, I’m happy to smack things with a big hammer – also got various bearing pullers and pushers to try.

I should really have asked all this at the garage, but not being a car person I assumed the studs were welded into the hub shell or something. Now waiting for the mechanic to call be back to explain why he can’t just replace the stud.

Main dealers = Fitters, not mechanics unfortunately.

They replace not repair. Shame really.

The studs will come out quite easily. You certainly wont have to use a ton of force to get them moving.
The only issue is whether there is clearance for it to fully exit the hub carrier and get the new one in by the same route (without chewing up the threads on re-entry!).

I’ve done this job a couple of times albeit not on the same car. All that’s holding them in is the spline & its interference fir with the hole in the hub. I don’t know (as already pointed out)if you’ll be able to completely remove the stud once it’s clear of the spline. If the thread’s nadgered all that needed is club hammer-stud interface. They will come out 😀

D.

if there’s any thread left on the stud maybe put two nuts on there locked together so you’ve got a bigger target to hit with the hammer.

As already pointed out you can just whack them out – however doing that does risk hurting the wheel bearing – its a far worse load than the bearing expects as it is a sharp solid hit metal on metal, its a light vehicle and the wheel bearings will be light duty.
If you have to remove the hub to get clearance to get the stud out then press it out or support the hub flange with a tube behind the stud so no shock goes through the wheel bearing.
If its a huge faf ti get the hub off and the bearing is compromised in doing so then the GSF option looks good.

Have you done it yet?

Still with the dealer – they seemed very surprised when I said I could order the part online for £8, they thought that it wasn’t available separately.

This is one thing I like about owning Peugeots – I have public access to their servicebox (also the citroen one) so it’s easy to look up parts and get prices before heading to the dealer.

The now say (this is a main Mercedes dealer) that they can’t source the stud – but if I can source it they’ll fit it. So just ordered one from eBay.

They also say that they’ve already ordered the complete hub, and might not be able to cancel it.

Lovely.

Did you agree to the work and the order of the hub?

Are you sure you want them to fit the stud? I am amazed they are offering to fit what could be a none Smart/Mercedes part. Most small garages would kick up a fuss about you sourcing parts nevermind a main stealer.

“Most small garages would kick up a fuss about you sourcing parts nevermind a main stealer. “

Not my experiance at all. garages ive dealt with have usually been more than happy to fit parts i supply IF and ONLY if they cannot get them for some reason.

they will mostly kick up a fuss about fitting used parts though….. – i have a tame mechanic now though for jobs i cant/wont do.

When i asked they mentioned ‘warranty’ – ie when they supply and fit a part they warranty the whole job. If you source the part and it fails prematurely they don’t want you going back and complaining and what if you source a dangerous part which they then fit?

It also lets them add a surcharge to parts they buy at trade.

I have always done most jobs myself but now we have a landrover I’m stepping away from doing all the nasty jobs. Just don’t have the time or energy these days to be getting under a car in crappy weather with no garage.

That’s the thing – I fix things all the time and have a well equipped workshop, but I don’t really have the time or inclination to fix the car, so happy to pay a dealer to do it.