I get off my lazy arse and scrape the windows before starting the car. It’s a lot quicker and is better for your car.

Personal preference is to wait or lukewarm water and wipers on full if I’m in a hurry

geordiemick00

I tend to agree with you as when you are with one car for a longtime driving a fair few miles you get to learn the car and fall into a ‘routine’ i.e. become smooth.

As I see it after owning a car for a certain amount of time you become more relaxed and as such drive smoother. Only exception to this ‘one owner’ thinking*

I still wouldn’t go anywhere near an ex-hire car. Many many people driving it, many people getting to grips driving it differently, with no interest in the car for what could be a multitude of different uses and journeys. In addition there are pricks like me who learned to left footbrake, toe-n-heel, handbrake, drive-a-manual-like-an-auto and not slowing down for any speed bumps.

After all, as long as you don’t dent the car any visual inspections back at the hire yard mean absolutely **** all to a future purchaser.

*Possibly an ex-mobility car either.

Did we not have a huge thread a while ago about whether or not pouring warm water on a cold windscreen was a good idea?

Having seen someone do it with boiling water, I’m not sure I’d risk it full stop.

Interesting noise though 🙂

I’ve always used lukewarm- not tap hot and definitely not kettle hot.

Just tepid enough that on a sweep its not freezing before the blade comes round.

VERY fast clear still with the wipers on full 😀

I’ve always used lukewarm- not tap hot and definitely not kettle hot.

Just tepid enough that on a sweep its not freezing before the blade comes round.

VERY fast clear still with the wipers on full

Me too, turns a 5 minute job into a 10 second one.

I’ve got an ex demo Leon FR (A Seat Golf Gti). Its a hot hatch a little ragging does it good!

As another Demo-for-my-company-car driver, IME the majority of demo’s are trundled through traffic to work in the same way as any other car. the driver is responsible for the fuel and condition of the car and most high performance models are static demos (not taken home) as no-one wants to pay the Co. car tax on them. They can be really good value if you are a (true) cash purchaser, but if you pay monthly the chances are it will work out pretty close to a new one taking into account manufacturer’s offer at the mo.

It’s not scientific but I had an ex-police car with 80k miles on it when 2 years old that last another 137K Miles (217K in total) before being crashed into and it still worked perfectly, only things replaced were normal consumables. It did need a bloody good clean though.

The next car I bought was an ex-hertz rental car (80K miles after 3 years) with a modern diesel engine and we are at 110K ~3 years later and it’s still working perfectly except for the front side light (which is a bugger to get to).

Mind you I also use those Hope Ti QR skewers that are supposed to be leathal and have 3 pairs of well working Pace forks so I’m obviously the exception that proves the rule…

My first car was an ex-learner car. A car I learned in and passed in 😈