Righty, for a while the MG's been reluctant to start, turn key an nothing, we've put this down to a worn solenoid (no click) or a loose conection, ordered a new solenoid and will rebuild the connectors when I get arround to replaceing it.

Anyway, since then its developed another bad habit, it wont idle. Starts up fine (appart form the solenoid fault mentioned erlier, but (this usualy happens approching roundabouts) when changeing gear in slow trafic it has a habit of stalling then refusing to start up at all (usualy have enough momentum/space to bump start it).

Other things we've noted;
battery appear's 'flat', its fully charged, but indicators flash slowly, starts in a split second form cold though (not bad for a 35yr old car.

No misfireing, which we thought odd as surely whatever is causing the engine to stop would happen while we were moving as well.

It did almost splutter to a halt (about 1.5seconds of no power, then back to life, done 350ish motorway miles miles since without a hitch) on the dual carrigeway a fortnight ago. Possibly the same problem? But its only done it in trafic since then (although concievably I wouldnt notice the engine stopping/starting changeing form 4th to 3rd at motorway pace.

Sometimes will only click the solenoid when everything else is turned off (i.e. lights off, indicators off, fan off), kida gives weight tot he earthing theory as the starter is its own circuit and therefore has access to a fully charged battery as nothign else is using it properly.

Anyone any thoughts?

-Earth fault? (would have to be localised to the engine, prefect 99.9% of the time and only fail catastrophicaly ecvery so often, so seems less likely)

-Ignition/points/condenser? Due a service, maybe the stalling is unrelated to a seperate fault in the starting circuit?

Any nice theories to link all the problems before I start trying to fix several things at once and loosing my hair?

I'd have thought that an idle problem would be related to a choke and/or carburettor issue. Perhaps the carb is due a refurb?

Slow indicators – if everything else is working fine perhaps the indicator unit is going – I remember my dad changing an awful lot of indicator relays on old maxi's back when I were a lad.

indicator relay is 12 months old, flashes fine when engine is running, just noticed it was slow in the garrage when we were checking everything over for the journey back down the motorway at the weekend.

I had considdered the carbs, but we checked the spark plugs at the weekend as well and theres no evidence of the engine running rich/lean. Although I susppose it could be dirty fuel causing the stalling, if not the starting issue.

I reckon an earth fault somewhere. Is it on the original loom 😯 ?

For the automotive electrical issues:

http://www.tesystems.co.uk

If you have engine probs too, I reckon they can sort that also.

S.

I had this sort of thing with an XR3i didn't want to start would stall when I put the clutch down at low revs etc. Replaced the battery and it was fine for a while then carried on doing the same.

Turns out it was a dodgy wire draining the battery causing these problems. once I had fixed it I had no more problems.

I found it by taking an electrical screwdriver and going through every fuse until the little bulb lit up. Cant remember what circuit it was but it wasn't important to the running of the car. After that it was fine. Never did get round to sorting it properly tho.

My dad suggested an electrical short circuit too, but the engine realy does start on the button without a moments hessitation, even if its been left for a week in the freezing cold. So the battery is definatley fully charged all the time. Only 4 fuses so I'll give it a go looking for one. It's odd that it wont start when anythings on, but the moment everythings off its fires into life in the blink of an eye (so theres clearly juice in the battery for turning the starter over) but somethign somewhere stops it supplying it to the solenoid (possibly).

So order of attack;

– Clean off the solenoid connectors
– Replace solenoid (I've bought it already so may as well)
– Check all earth connections on battery, engine, lights etc and fuses for even a trickle of current.
– Make sure all the earth connections are well made.
– Change points/condenser
– strip, clean and service the carbs
– Clean the fuel tank and lines.

I dont think there's a fuel filter in the system. Is it unwise to fit one down-stream of the pump, up-streem is a solid copper pipe so not easily possible.

Total guess but I should think if you fitted a fuel filter you would need to upgrade the pump due to the flow restriction.

Have you tried starting it when only turning on one thing at a time? eg lights on everything else off try to start fan on everything else off try to start and so on.

You mention the indicators run slow when the engine isnt running what about the lights are they dim is the fan slower. Does the stereo effect things at all? If so is that quieter when the engine isnt running?

I would hazard a guess that if you have a short it would be in one of the switch-able circuits and because of this when that circuit is turned on the battery shorts dropping the power to the starter.

I think things working properly with the engine running will be because there is more electricity running through the system because of the alternator.

I'll give it a go, no stereo so that's one less thing to test :p

What's odd is when i turn the key, the ignition light goes out, and the needles all flutter which to me implies something is happening.

It's going to be a long week in a cold garrage with the multi meter 🙁

Well if you find out what it is let us know I'm intrigued.

I had an old car that wouldn't idle when it was warm – turned out to be the vacuum timing adjust thing was stuck. So timing wasn't adjusting when the engine was warm. Squirt of WD40 in the appropriate vacuum hose hole solved it for good.

Your slow indicators etc could be a red herring ie unrelated to the idling thing.

Just had a conversation with a guy at the MGOC, suggested the actual keyswitch/wires could be the fault. If the brown (12v) wire's loose then it would have the same effect as turning the ignition off while driving allong. Couldn't quite explain how this would light up the ignition lights but not activate the solenoid, but it could be two loose wires (its just abouve my knee so quite easy to knock).

If its the switch then it could be the excuse I need to fit a big red starter button to the dash 🙂 always wanted one of those!