Hey all,

Is there anyone on here that would be able to offer any advice/comments to my rights and any further specifics when claiming warranty replacement?

Would prefer not to comment entirely in the public domain for obvious reasons.

cheers,
jt

How long have you had it,

More than likely a couple of days the shop may help you out if not prob nowt, Read you manual, BB's are usually classed as a consumable items

Someone will put me wright if i'm wrong.

I've had the bike since 2006.

The bottom bracket came out when pulling out the drive-side crank ;(

So it's the bottom bracket shell which I'm querying as opposed to the cups (ought to have the title changed to reflect that)
thanks

2006. Very hard for you to show it was a manufacturing fault.

to claim under sale of goods act you would have to show it was a manufacturing fault.

cannondale will set their own terms under warranty and if they say no warranty claim then that is it.

There could be many reasons why the thread failed if that is what happened.

It can be repaired with an insert.

my experience is that Cannondale Europe are a ropey bunch of idiots, who will happily ignore "lifetime warrenties", will quote the latest (updated to exclued your issue) warrenty statement even though you bought it under the a different warrenty statement.
Still pi$$ed at them and actually want to chase it backup but have no real idea what to do.

IME you have to go through a cannondale dealer though in order to deal with them

I agree with TJ 2006 is a long time,

it won't hurt to take it to a cannondale dealer and ask them, if not it'll prob cost £50 to fix, which if you like the frame isn't that much,

I understand the UK disty has changed fairly recently to CSG

It's not the cost element that is the problem for me, it is the quoted lifetime warranty /the lack of.

OP have you had new BBs in since bought?

it'll prob cost £50 to fix

Are you speaking from experience?

CDale are superb with frame warranties for cracks etc [insert 'they have to be' quip here]. Not sure what they would say about this – how can you be riding around with a completely loose bb is an obvious question the dealer would ask. Given the timeframe it looks like it might be a hard case to argue. Is the shell irredeemably fked? If not then I agree with Shep, just get it recut (re-tapped?) and move on.

Yeah i got a local engineering firm who make parts for rally cars to put a threaded sleeve in, Was on a SC bullet. We used them a couple of times from the shop i worked in.

Theres also a BB you can buy that doesn't use threads just interally bolts together. May only be available in square taper.

I have a story about my Trek Ex8. had it for about 8 months from new and the BB suddenly seemed loose. It was a HT II. Took the crankset out and the BB cups simply "fell out" of the frame taking all the thread of the shell with them. Very unusal and I have never worked out how it could have happened. Was worried that Trek would not beleive me. But they replaced the frame (with upgrade to EX9 with Rp23 shock) with no quibbles.

I presume the BB had been overtightened on installation, the thread was not correct, or the material was wrong.

presume the BB had been overtightened on installation,

More likely loose – which allowed it to move and destroy the threads.

Yes, it's on it's 2nd BB – one done by leisurelakes and the last one by me, installed by hand, cleaned threads with toothbrush/gt85 & compressed air, nipped up with the park tool and then bolted together.

It wasn't loose, it just pulled out when I removed the crank.

Yes I can get it cut, yes I can get someone to deal with it – at my expense. a BB is a consumable, a serviceable item but why the flipping heck should I pay for something on a frame with 'lifetime' guarantee when the frame appears to not have had enough thread cut/whatever else.

Now, since the fkup, if you were to attempt to put in the driveside bearing cup, it is possible to push the cup in approx 1/3rd of the way into the frame without any purchase on the threads.

did i not fit it 😉

Not fitted by qualified mechanic is a term thats likely to be used,

Have you checked the terms of "lifetime warrenty" its often a limited lifetime warranty ie the expected life of the product. Because this all sounds like it would be classed as fatigue which isn't covered i'm afraid.

I wouldn't say you fitted it.

jontawn – the thing is the most likely explanations ( without knowing you) are user error. bb too tight or too lose resulting in ruined threads or poorly manufactured replacement BB or cross threaded on replacement. all as likely as incorrectly cut threads after 4 years and a replacement BB.

Now I am the first to say that manufacturers should pay up when they are at fault – but on this one I really don't see how youcan show it was them at fault.

You need the insert done as suggested above if the threads are that bad

Yup too many years/variables/possibilities to pin on mfr IMO.

You did grease bb threads?

Cannondale are slow, but honoured my warranty when I wore through the chainstay with my foot.

I really wasn't sure it was a warranty issue, but was prepared to go down the line of c'dale speccing their low Q factor cranks, which meant my heels rubbed against the chainstay more than normal. Didn't have to though, no quibble replacement frame.

Your problem, I'm not sure about. They may offer you a good deal (and I mean a better deal than say, Pace would offer) on a new frame, or, if you're lucky they'll warranty it.

cynic-al – yeah could have been loose, but never felt loose at the crank-arms before it happened… and the design of HT II should mean it can never become loose. It was very wierd, but full marks to Trek for the new frame and BB.

My case is very different from jontawn's though because the assembly had not been touched from new.

I've seen very well regarded frame manufacturers produce frame with next to no thread in the BB, and also distorted shells on steel frames, all new frames. The aluminum ones can be reamed and a steel insert bonded in by argosracingcyles in bristol for about 50 sheets. Maybe is was a dud from new, but i would of thought that the mechanic might of noticed it when fitting the 2nd BB, although from experience it's not always easy to spot, at you can't really see how shallow the threads are all that easily.

If you get stuck give Argos a shout.

they replaced my prophet swing arm in 2 weeks when the shock mount ovalised (my fault after incorrect torque value)

My Heckler BB came loose and stripped all the threads, installed by lbs so I got a new front end from them.

It's just infuriating as I am sure you would agree, but I do appreciate and fear I may have to hand over a few quid to get it resolved.

But to echo racing_ralph/rob, he incorrectly worked on his bike and they sorted that out without question!?

Ultimately, it comes against my word saying I am not a hamfisted mofo, and their word saying it would have been seen sooner should it be a manufacturing issue.

The rather irritating thing is it has taken them 3-ish months to decide what to do about it.

this happened with my norco frame recently too. installed a new bb at least 3 months prior to it happening – cleaned threads properly, cup fitted nice an freely by hand and then tightened up with the tool. rode it without any problems until i noticed a bit of play in the cranks – thinking it was the bearings shot took the cranks out and the driveside cup followed.

i have no idea what has caused this as i have fitted plenty of BB's in the past and this one was fitted in exactly the same manner.

discovered a crack in the frame anyway, so hopefully it will be new frame for me, if not i'll have to get the threads re-tapped i think, but can this be down to manufacturer fault? again, ~2 year old frame.

If you've not said anything yet I wouldn't admit that you fitted the bottom bracket!

I had a Shimano BB cup strip its threads and go completely loose. Luckily, it was a Titanium frame and the aluminium cup was all that suffered.

Looks like the bearing has seized, then the rotating cranks have turned the whole cup.

hmmm…you think that could have been a possible cause druidh? looks very similar to mine, although it was covered in a grey paste (which i presume was what was left of the thread).

do you think shimano (or BB manuf) could be held responsible?

Yer, perhaps being too honest already and said it was I.
Even if I were to suggest a professional mechanic fitted it, they'd want to assert the blame to them.

I've been working on bikes, cars and generally anything mechanical/electrical for about 15 years.

Well they should have another email from me now, so hopefully something will come of it.

Would you buy a bike/frame knowing that the BB shell is bonded in because the old one failed? I don't think I would.

Yeah i would £30??

But seriously after having one repaired myself i wouldn't have any problems buying one that has been repaired.

Chances are at least half of us that have bought second hand frames could be riding one that has had atleast the threads retapped.

Jontawn. Repairing a knackered thread with an inset is perfectly acceptable

peachos – Member
hmmm…you think that could have been a possible cause druidh? looks very similar to mine, although it was covered in a grey paste (which i presume was what was left of the thread).

do you think shimano (or BB manuf) could be held responsible?

Mine happened after the bike had been sitting for a few weeks over the winter. I was "just pedalling along" but was wondering why the cranks didn't feel right. When I looked down, I could see the cup rotating in the frame. The bearing I removed is completely seized. I reckon it was almost two years old (it was second hand when I got it). It never occurred to me to look for someone to blame though.

It never occurred to me to look for someone to blame though.

nor me until i saw this thread. just a bit baffled as to what casued it really, as like i say, i've fitted plenty of BBs in the same manner previously.

If I'm right, then the fitting of the BB is almost irrelevant and it all comes down to the bearing failure. Thinking through the symptoms, I can't see another explanation.

druidh: I am the first person to accept responsibility for my own actions, but, a bicycle in normal working order, carrying out routine maintenance and the bearing cups come out. It isn't right!

The crank shaft/spindle was greased with copperslip before being installed just so these things don't happen.

lovewookie – Member
They may offer you a good deal (and I mean a better deal than say, Pace would offer)

i.e. Not tell you to get bent?
druidh, you'd think that the crank would have still spun round in the plastic tophat though wouldnt you? Wierd.

jontawn – Have you thought about what caused the problem?

bigyinn – I still can't some up with another explanation. I guess that if there was enough dirt in the interface it could completely jam? The bike was regularly washed, but with nothing more powerful than a garden hose.

jontawn, i'm with you mate. something has failed for whatever reason, i don't think that we (or the mnfr more importantly) can automatically attribute it to the fact that it wasn't fitted by a non-professional.

edit: well they obviously can, but shouldn't be able to!

druidh: apologies if my previous comment sounded a bit harsh, a seemingly very long day already!

Yes, I have thought about it. Mass produced frames are exactly that, and during that process tooling, re-finishing processes etc are all subject to tolerances and wear, so, not every frame is produced to the same exacting standard even if it is a few 00's of a millimetre out.

I assembled a brand new on-one inbred fairly recently for someone, and the thread depth was much better on that (despite the paint overspray) than on the Prophet. The same applies to my Giant road bike, the thread depth (and overall finish) is better there too.

Considering this (the BB shell) is one area where a significant amount of force is, I would sincerely expect the shell to be up to it. Taking into consideration I've worked on road bikes from the 70's and while they look a little rusty on the surface, they still bite.

Even with a new BB cup, it is still possible to push the cup in approx 1/3rd of the way in without and interference from the threads – which would imply the BB shell is at issue for not having enough metal available.