Eek. Sounds nasty! Glad it’s not too expensive.

I’ve ordered a second bushing and Rusty’s recommended bushing tool. First bushing hasn’t even arrived yet.

Bushes arrived today. For some reason I thought we had 6mm bolts, but they have shipped 8mm. Assuming that is correct then my assessment of the head angle change (0.75 or 1.5) was wrong – two will get me the desired 1.0 drop. I can now see why you all have two installed!

Ashy. I assume you left the stock DU in the bike rather than using the supplied from Offsetbushings.com? Looks like a Dyad specific DU maybe to protect the carbon pivot? Doesn’t seem worn so I’m thinking leave it be. It also looks like it splits in the middle and needs to be pushed out from the middle rather than with the DU tool?

also… how tight do you nip up the bolts again when re-mounting the shock? I’ve gone with 5Nm.

I spoke with Offset Bushings, and now understand that those are what regular Fox DU bushings look like on any Fox rear. As they aren’t worn and the new offset core is tight in the bushings, there’s no need to change them. They did say that they tend to wear quite quickly and that some day I should consider swapping in their bushings. I imagine it’ll need a service before then. Can’t test ride because there’s snow everywhere!

My dropper has become a suspension post again. These Lev droppers really are shot for reliability. It’s going back for the second time in 3 months.

Is it normal for the negative air in the dyad to drop around 50psi when connecting the air pump. I’m assuming this is what is happening and that the negative air chamber must be much smaller than +ve making it more sensitive. If not then I guess the dyad needs to go to mojo.

On a plus note, I like the offset bushings. Not had a chance to trial them on a fast descent as we did a shorter ride today because it’s bloody cold. But it was fine on the Climbs and I found that I left it in elevate mode on the smooth flat bits a lot more too – normally I drop to flow because it’s more relaxing on the wrists to have the weight back a bit. So that’s a bonus.

If I recall correctly yes, it is normal to see the psi drop. Through tightening on the pump you’ll loose some pressure until the seal is made.

The valve on one of the chambers seems to open twice. Screw so far on and gauge moves, another turn and it jumps up some more.

Hi guys, I think it is just pressure released when the pump is screwed back on. It seems to drop about 30 or 40 PSI releasing air into the pump. I tried setting it last night, removed the hose and put it back on, down from around 260 to 220, then I removed it and put it back on again without doing anything and it was down around 180. So I reckon the shock is fine. Shame about the dropper though!

Seems a bit excessive the amount it is dropping though. Mine loses around 10psi that’s with taking it off and putting it back on

Hi Swainy – I have the vaguest recollection that it’s always been this way, and for some reason I recall reading it someplace. The +ve only drops a few PSI but it takes a much greater volume of air than the negative.However, Mojo reckon it is probably fine since it’s always dropped the same amount no matter how long I have left it, so I think I’ll ignore it for a while until the service is due.

Sort of related – anyone else notice that in order to hit the correct sag, you need to run pressures a fair bit lower than recommended on the chart. I’m 77kg and find 65 psi in the lefty, and 265+/255- in the Dyad hits the correct sag and feels plush.

I also find I need to reset my Lefty bearings every 3 or 4 rides (TFT reckon this is very normal). It’s a 2 min job so no big deal and TFT tell me it would need done less frequently if I ran the fork stiffer – so a trade off.

Zero, I believe every review of the bike I’ve read says to run lower pressure than the recommended. Makes you wonder why they set the pressures so high

I remember setting my Rebas on my last bike to the Rockshox recommendation and they were brick hard. My hands ached after a 2 hour ride.

@Zero – fear not! Your pressure loss is entirely normal. It is simply the effect of the air in the hose/internals of the pump becoming pressurised when you connect it.

I had a long conversation with a fantastically helpful engineer at Mojo to establish this – and that there wasn’t in fact a problem with my DYAD as I thought.

The issue is amplified with the negative chamber as the volume is smaller.

Cheers ssmith!

Oh that’s good to hear then zero. I am also putting in less pressure than the chart states to achieve correct sag.

Talking to people on this chat about my current issue with chain drops I purchased the one up components upper chain device and no chain drops also finding shifting is better now also so can highly recommend to other that might be contemplating on getting one. Fingers crossed it’s a ride changer for me

I don’t want to hijack this thread and I haven’t read all of it, but I have a shortlist of potential new bikes and one is the Cannondale Habit 4 with the 120mm Lefty 2.0 fork.
Considering the problems listed on this thread, but also the photos of Triggers being used out and about, would people recommend a Cannondale bike with a Lefty or to steer clear?

There’s zero issues with the Lefty. There was an upgrade to the internals that cannondale offered us for free which saw many of us send them off, other than that one or two folk gad complaints about worn bearings in the hub, possibly from over tightening. I love the Lefty. Best “fork” I’ve owned. They need a bearing reset every few rides but it’s no more effort than removing the air the bouncing down on it a couple times an refilling air. Worth the 2 mins for plushness.

Go for it.

This is my 3rd lefty in 12 years 1st went 5 years with zero servicing untill a oil seal leaked. A new seal and service fixed that. Currently have 2 of the newer lefties one a 2013 90mm and the 140 on the trigger. No issues what so ever done a couple of bearing resets on the 140 and thats it.
Any cannondale i buy it seems has to have the lefty even stretch my budget to get it.

Just a heads up to every one here dont know if its been brought up yet. CRC have a sale on at the moment and 2016 Mavic Crossmax SL Pro Ltd lefty front and rear in yellow and black are on sale for £305 the pair shipped they also give you a £10 voucher (automatically taken off in the basket for orders over £75) so thats a further tenner off. If you order each wheel separately then you get the tenner off twice. They have them in black stealth also but the rear is out of stock until February 7th :(. These wheels are about £800 RRP and ive seen them for a grand some places so this is a super bargain. Mine arrive for my Jekyll in the morning. I got these as the standard Crossroc are a bit shit and for £300 they are practically giving them away.

Great PSA that!

Advice again please guys. My CTD adjuster keeps coming loose. I’ve been tightening it up after every ride with an adjustable spanner but next ride it’s loose again. I’ve rang mojo and they suggested to send it in. Not a clue when it comes to forks but seems like it’s not a major issue. Has anyone else had this? If you all advise to send them in what courier service to use and I’m guessing it’s going to be a fair wack to post. Cheers guys

Depending on courier about a tenner. Dont send it in put a little threadlock on the screw if it is indeed that that is coming lose

Anyone on here have a shimano slx m675 rear brake for sale? Got a trigger 4 and my rear is absolutely destroyed

Just trying to fit a Hope E4 brakes etc and annoyingly the rear cover fouls the cannondale adaptor. Any thoughts?

I had the same problem on my Jekyll. Two washers at each end space the calliper far enough back. Been riding like that with no problems for about 10 months.

Hmmm, sorted it now. Dremel was my friend! I can’t get the front brake to not rub now. As soon as I tighten it it rubs.. I’ve setup 4 pot calipers before without trouble but this is perplexing me.

How the f**** was Dremel your friend if it still has rub problems? 😯

Haha. Just reshaped the adaptors a bit. Hardly needed anything taking off. Rubbing is more of an alignment issue, but think I’ve sorted it now. Just needed to centralise the pistons.

Anyone changed there bottom bracket on the trigger 4. Also going to buy a new bb what would you suggest. Going to remove and install new myself so need a little help guys

Ashy I upgraded my rear to 180mm to get around that issue. For the alignment I did it by eye and tightened a little at a time, rather than holding the brake on and tightening it briskly.

Hope have some great videos on this.

Anyone changed there bottom bracket on the trigger 4. Also going to buy a new bb what would you suggest. Going to remove and install new myself so need a little help guys

No. But need to. Could you let me know how you get on.

I probably need one too.

Was listed as “FSA MegaExo w/ BB30 adapter” on the spec, so I’m guessing standard English thread inside the adaptor – I was planning to just go for Deore.

Let me know if you find out Simon. I haven’t a clue but spoke to my local bike shop and they were 100% either tbh

Right, after a big weekend in wales it would appear that 180/160 rotors aren’t enough to slow my immense mass without cooking the brakes…What adaptors do I need to fit Hope E4’s with a 203mm rotor up front and a 180mm at the back? I’ve looked and there’s a plethora of options which ended up confusing me. I’m presuming the icetec rotors are okay with hope brakes? If so I only need to buy a 203mm rotor as the current 180mm front can migrate to the back.
Chris

Echo echo echo….surely this thread isn’t dead?

I fitted a Praxis bb to my trigger, it still allows you to run shimano cranks in a bb330 shell.

You’ll find part numbers in the back of the user manual for your bike.

Part number KP176/X for 180mm rear adaptor.

Front depends on the fork you have on there.