I think there’s a video on their website, hang on

Instructions from their website

1. Select correct backplate size based on front chainring
2. Install backplate and washers onto S3 mount using size specific holes, torque bolts to 3Nm. (NOTE: If your S3 mounting bolt protrudes beyond the frame mount please ensure it will will not collide with any frame components throughout all suspension travel)
3. With crankset and chain installed, use spacer shim block to measure clearance between back plate and chain
4. Determine the corresponding number of chainline shims required
5. Assemble top guide with spacers and tighten bolt to 3Nm

Basically, mount the backplate then trial and error with spacers until the chain guide sits square over the chain, really easy and not too fiddly. Hope that helps.

Cheers ashy I’ve done it now way simple enough like you said. Fox dyad question for the knowledgeable people out there. Sent my dyad to mojo to be fixed as the shaft wasn’t fully retracting when stationary. Sent returned and fault is fixed great stuff. Went to change from 140 to 80 travel today and and the cable just slipped and the cable is just loose so can not engage 80mm travel. Am I best fixing myself or sending back to mojo as this issue was not present before it was sent to them. Cheers

Take it you’ve checked the grub screw is tight?

Hi all ,
Just had to replace my sons main pivot bearings. It was creaking a bit and seemed to clunk a little if lifted slowly by frame. So just before we were due to go out for a ride we decided to investigate. Holding rear wheel and holding frame and pulling and pushing movement could be seen on main pivot.Just to note when all clamps bolts etc on main pivot are loose, the centre pin will only come out towards the drive side / Right hand side. Due to a step in the pin.
The drive side bearings were nowhere to be seen !!! just the inner and outer races left. Could not find them anywhere so not sure what happen to them.
The bearings fitted were only standard type and not full compliment ones which I have seen on most other pivot points. Not sure if that was a factor in failure in a 8 month old bike. The non drive side was ok but on way out so replaced that as well.
He rides 2-3 times a week total of 20-30 miles so not mega mileage.
I did think about trying a warranty claim but a couple of hours and some bearings seemed better option than no bike for a week or two and the hassel of taking it to bike shop etc.
So if you have any play movement in yours its worth a look.
I was hoping for a bit more life than this, as I get 12-15 months out of my Giant Trance.
Hope that makes sense !!!

Si

Has anyone replaced the headset bearings on a 27.5 alloy trigger yet?

Just replaced mine with the recommended HD169 set but the fox fork is slightly tapered out / larger at the base of the fork leaving me with a 60mm gap to fully seat the fork in the headset.

Called the bearing supplier (who is a connondale parts shop) and they said that the top bearing has a crush washer / spacer to take up the slack (agreed) but the bottom is an inerference fit and I need to encourage it in with a mallet…..it’s going to take a serious whacking to get it into the headset.

Any ideas or experiences?

Thanks
Ross

Did you have to encourage the old bearing out?

Looking at the spares sites, HD169 are Lefty bearings, so are you sure you have the right set? 60mm is one hell of a gap. The bottom bearing should just slide onto the steerer and meet the crown race with no interference.

Anyone upgraded their bars to a Renthal Fatbar Carbon. I’m considering it to get a 20mm rise. Debating between the 740mm width and the 780mm. Not sure I can be bothered cutting the bars down to the fitted 760mm.

Bonus question. Would it be a downgrade to go Alu Renthal rather than Carbon when replacing my Cannondale carbon bars? Edit: seems like carbon is worth it.

@blastit.
Just replaced the main pivot bearings on my trigger 4 after 12 month’s use along with the bottom bracket for the second time. What b bracket do you guys recommend because the shimano ones seem to be made from cheese.

@zerolight. Stick with carbon!! And 780 is a good width, it’s what I have on mine.

I’ve ordered the 780 30mm. Hopefully the rise isn’t too much. I have my saddle up pretty high and find a lot of weight on my hands. The stock bars appear to be 15mm from the little specs I’ve found online. I reckon the extra rise and reduced sweep will suit me better.

Ps: Anyone interested in my Cannondale Carbon C1 riser for their alloy trigger. Seem to be £74 new so £40 Inc paypal and myhermes? They have 400k of light riding on them and no crashes.

400k in a year? 😯

I’ve only had it 6 months and it shares time with my roadbike. 400km would be more appropriate. 🙂 edit. According to Strava, 616km. And one minor crash where I wiped out on the road. My elbows and hips protected my bike though!

I’d actually read that as 400k miles. Sorry. I keep forgetting that roadies use metric…

And to think, I’m a new roadie old MTBer.

The Dark Side has you.

Just had this email about a free air spring upgrade for my lefty from Cannondale. Anyone else?
link

I don’t fancy posting the whole lot back to Paul’s but there’s a Cannondale dealer down the road. I wonder if they’ll do it?

I got the same email and am wondering the same thing. My local dealer is Evans.

Mine is Allterraincycles. From the wording in the service bulletin I assume any cannondale dealer wil do it

I wonder what’s up with the existing air spring. Mine feels fine, but I’ve always thought that it felt like it was impossible to get the full 140mm travel.

The online link says that some are prone to failure or inconsistencies. I’ll call Dales in the morning. They do the Sell cannondale any more but seem to be an authorised service centre for Headshok

This is interesting, after 7 months of my Lefty being fine, yesterday 10 miles into the Ruthin Mtb Marathon, it lost all air and bottomed out, tried to re-inflate using the mechanics shock pump but it wasn’t having any of it. Was pretty carp doing the last 20 miles on the bump stops. When i got back to the van, pumped up using my cannondale pump and it felt normal for about 3 pushes on the fork, then sank down to nothing…..

I’m in for the upgrade too, leisure lakes in bury are my nearest, after a year the forks due a service anyway, I’m just wondering what exactly they will replace?

Follow the link in the email. It shows you the new air assembly.

Website was down when I tried.

Working now

Yeah I’ve just had a look. I qualify, ringing LLB tomorrow.

Interesting link on 2spring

Thanks for the heads up.

Welcome, and thanks for that link zerolight. Assuming my local dale dealer will do the work it sounds like a good upgrade. I’ll ring Allterraincycles tomorrow and update here.

Any idea where I can find a Cannondale dealer list?

There’s a dealer link in the email.

Thanks. Missed that…

Well, dropped mine in at AllTerrainCycles in Wetherby, who’ve very kindly offered to deal with it. 7 days turnaround apparently. I’ll update if I hear any more.

Well i’ve crashed mine, which has resulted in the fork legs twisting………

Can’t for the life of me find a suitable 1.5 steerer fork anywhere.

Anyone got any idea of what headset I’ll need to run a taper?

Hi Ashy,

Alpine Bikes in Glasgow called Cannondale who told them it has to be carried out by TFTuned. They then called TFTuned who are waiting on the parts. They are expecting them to arrive from Cannondale in two weeks. So my bike will be going in to Alpine bikes in two or three weeks once TFT confirm they have the replacement bits, then the Lefty will be posted to TFT (sadly at my expense).

You should double check with ATC – you don’t want to be without your bike for 3 weeks whilst they wait on parts.

My Trigger is an older one (original Lefty Supermax not 2.0) but I assume it can still take the new air spring thing? I should probably get it serviced by now, is there anyone recommended who would service it and supply & fit the upgrade at the same time?

How are you guys getting your Leftys off?