Oh man those wheels look amazing. Somehow really suit the Lefty. Runs off to winstanleys…

I’ve fitted some offset bushing to my Trigger, but now the triangular shock ‘rocker’ hits against the seat tube. It happens on the return part of the suspension movement. You can also replicate it by just gently lifting the rear of the bike by the seat.

Double checked for correct installation and shock pressures etc.

Anyone else have this problem please?

Couple of questions:

What have people done to stop cable rub with the cables that go through lefty? I’ve wrapped them in a bit of inner tube but that’s squeeking like hell.

Also a lot of tapping has started, sounds like a cable tapping away, anyone else had a similar issue?

Andy, are you sure you have them in the right way around? As it’s a pull shock you want longer eye to eye rather than the conventional shorter. Think of it as slightly compressing the suspension – the shock gets a bit longer, the head angle gets a bit slacker.

I could be wrong, but as the linkage is fouling when the suspension is uncompressed, sounds like they are in upside down.

Yep, for the Dyad you need to put the bushings in the opposite way round to the diagram on the offsetbushings website.
As for the cable rub my LBS had some little silicone rubber spirals that wrap around the cables and stop wear and tapping.

@ torsoinalake, thanks for posting, I have them fitted the shorter way, will fit them the other way round and report back!

It worked! Just rotated them 180 degrees, seems to have done the trick, actually looks more laid back now, measured the BB drop and it is -10mm. thanks again

Jonny

I first shortened my cables as some were too long, especially the rear travel lever and the dropper. I also moved the rear brake over to the right of the steerer like a conventional bike. This reduced a lot of rubbing. Then I use a couple of cable ties (one looped around the Lefty, the other looped loosely around that tie and one of the cables, as a guide of sorts. I also have some helitape and some jag wire rubber cable thingies.

Clicking might be cables under BB. Make sure there is some slack. There’s a cable eye on the downtube near the pivots that you can use to secure the dropper cable before it enters the frame.

Been away for a week of riding in Saalbach (fantastic place to go) and long descents meant while there needed to replace my brake pads. My Trigger 3 has Magura MT5 brakes and I could only get BBB Magura compatible pads from the shops in resort so went with them.

What have others replaced the stock pads with?

Still a clicking going on when I pedal, plenty of slack in the cables.

I had a clicking noise from the BB and cleaned out the bearing surfaces etc to sort it. Have a look on this thread page 32, near bottom of page.

Cannondale Trigger? Bargain

Cheers mate, was the BB out of place? Or just need a good clean out?

@Hammerite, Uberbike sintered are probably the ones i will keep using. Standard magura are OK, SS kevlar always lacked bike. If you have the Magura SL rotors i would ditch them as they have big cut outs they don’t have much meat for the pad to make a nice big braking surface.

BB had moved out slightly at both sides. Used a big vice to put them back in. Have a look at the photos on p.32. The bearings definitely needed a clean. Worthwhile drilling a 5mm hole in the bottom of the frame under the BB as a fair bit of water can collect in there and mix with dust/sand etc. Not good!

@astormatt – thanks for the reply. I have the stock rotors on still. What do you recommend?

More bb help please.
Trigger 4 has a bit of roughness in the bb.
I ordered the bb30 removal and install tool but the removal tool doesn’t fit.
It seems to be an adaptor bearing to fit the deore crank.
What removal tool do I need and would these be a suitable replacement?
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/rotor-bb30-steel-bottom-bracket-kit/rp-prod130493
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/fsa-sl-k-mtb-bb30-chainset/rp-prod129454
I plan to remove the rings and install my single 104 bcd.
Thanks

I ditched the standard BB and installed a praxis conversion. Also the standard cranks on the 4 are 96BCD rather than 104

Oh yeah they are 96bcd. I got it mixed up with my hard tail.

How do you remove the adapter? I’ve spent all day trying to find out.

I worked out the cups with a hammer and screwdriver, be careful as there is a ridge in the BB shell.

Bottom bracket removed.
The bb30 tool is to large for the 24 mm bearings. I tried to find one that fits without any luck.
I used a 6 inch bolt and a rubber hammer. Tapping on the lip nearest to the blue bearing seal. Alternating sides.
I’ve now ordered this at crc which is the same as the removed bb.
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/fsa-m3-mtb-adapter/rp-prod129937

Anyone else find that the recommended pressures for the Lefty are kinda high? I’m 78kg so the recommended pressure is around 70psi. When I run that I get about 20mm of sag and a firm fork. If I drop to between 55 and 60psi I get around during 40 to 45mm as recommended.

Jonny my clicking turned out to be a pedal that needed greasing. Superstar flat pedal. Might be worth looking there. I think the SRAM BB on the carbon trigger is supposed to be pretty good.

Zerolight is it the superstar nano you’ve got? If so how did you get them apart I couldn’t get to the nut to undo. Used Allen key to take cap off then couldn’t get down to completely undo. Any help? Also has anyone got the one up components chain guide? I’ve seen someone on Internet who has put single ring up front on my cannondale trigger 4 but unsure which one fits? Cheers

I have the one up guide. Just fits the tab where the mech lived. Easy as pie to fit.

You will need a direct mount and fit it to the front mech adaptor. The ISCG models fit to ISCG05 whereas the trigger ISCG03/OLD

I’ll check that out zero light, I’ve got nanos on mine too. Did you have to take them apart or just regrease the threads?

When you take the end cap off it comes out about an inch long like a tube. I filled it with grease then greased it’s threads and screwed it back in. I hope the buggered one doesn’t start squeaking cause that end cap is not coming out, it’ll be a new pedal. But it’s good so far.

Thanks for replies guys. Ashy is it this one you have http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/mobile/oneup-components-low-direct-mount-chain-guide/rp-prod148246 Chain guide

Swainy90, yes that’s the one

Cheers ashy was it easy to fit. And how have you found it. Any good? I’ve just ordered it so hopefully aha

It’s crap…..only joking! Don’t even know it’s there, very easy to fit and no dropped chains. It’s a great little piece of kit

Aston – how are you getting on with the Crank Bros wheels? I’m very tempted but a little concerned with Crank Bros build quality/reliability?

ssmith- can’t really comment on reliability as only had them a few weeks and done a hand full of rides.
Chap in my lbs said that they are much better than people give them credit and can take quite a bit of abuse.
A few of the guys i ride with have, or have had them and have never had a problem.
I really like the all black colour scheme…

Thanks Astor. I may well give them a go.

What brakes are you running? They don’t look like the MT6 in the photo?

Also have you changed the decals on your lefty at all? Mine is different!

Thanks. Simon

Simon, mine came with the MT7 4 Pot brakes and no i haven’t changed the decals on the forks.
I was expecting the MT6 brakes on mine, but i do have a cheap WTB saddle not the more expensive one that was in the spec….

Good job on the brakes – the MT6’s were rubbish! First thing I changed.

Strange on the fork – it looks identical other than yours has much brighter detailing/decals than mine. Different bikes leaving the factory at different times I guess.

Just wish I could grow to love mine. At the moment the relationship is best described as ‘functional’! Warranty work on fork and DYAD hasn’t helped, but even when it is working it is a clicking grindy noisy and complicated beast that I’m never sure I am getting the best out of.

Maybe I’m better suited to hard tails…

PS. I too had the cheap WTB saddle! In fairness whatever it came with would have come off unless it was a Bontrager!

http://www.cannondalespares.com/Leonardi-Leo-Guide–Cannondale-Lefty-Cable-Guide/product_detail/3-42438

Got one of these if anyone wants it, £8.00 posted.

Ashy did you get any fitting instructions with the chain guide? Presume it fairly straight forward but I don’t have anything aha