thorpey0 – Member
where is the best place to get offset bushings and are they easy to fit on the Dyad?

Got mine from here;
http://www.offsetbushings.com/
I just put Cannondale Jekyll/DYAD in the frame/shock box when ordering and they were bang on size wise. You need a standard shock bushing tool but other than 10 minutes of a job.

Thorpey, I got mine from Offsetbushings.com Jeron is excellent. They are easy to fit knock the old ones out, push in a new sleeve the insert the bushing.

Zaskar. It’s fine to extend the shock. Just empty the negative. Then the pos. Then start filling the negative. Until it’s all the way out.
It says in the inductions not to put more air in the negative chamber, but it doesn’t do any damage,only hampers performance.
I’ve never bottomed out either. It’s suppose to be a very progressive shock and therefor very difficult to bottom out.
You won’t see 140 or 160mm of piston. Only about 3 inches so you might not have an issue

Crazymac. Give it a try later thanks for the advise

Tempted to try the offset bushings but did you guys try playing with neg shock pressures first?

Been a while since I posted any pics so here’s mine as its looking now, with CrossMax XLs and 150mm
KS Lev dropper. Just need some new flat pedals as these are falling apart.

I love the trigger 2. Really wish I could have spent 2 grand on one.
Here is my trigger 4. Quite a few upgrades now.
Single ring setup with sunrace mx3. Worth it
Continental mountain Kings. Worth it
125 reverb. Worth it.
Superstar tactic wheels 23 internal and 200 grams lighter a wheel. Worth it.
Carbon haven handlebar. Feels like a waste and doesn’t seem to add anything.
My trails are getting really muddy now so I’ve just ordered a 2.35 hans dampfs.
Tried them on my mates bike today and the grip was out of this world. Actually made the steering heavy.

That looks great and good to see it muddy! Mine looks like a garage queen, but I promise it’s usually muddy!

I just spotted your chain stay protector. Doesn’t look stock? The original fitted one, fell off mine and my neoprene one seemed to be affecting my shifting. I need something new.
I’ve seen sticky back velcro but I’m not sure it would stay on with my muddy conditions?

It’s a free mbuk neoprene one. Doesn’t seem to affect shifting on mine!

Mine was really tight. Shock compression was pulling a bit of rear shifter cable through and putting a tight bend on the cable at the rear mech.
I’ve just ordered a horrible looking silver chain stay protector from qwerty. I think I’ll spray paint it black.

Yes I had that exact issue at the back, think because I didn’t have enough slack on the outer under the BB. Pulling a bit more through and locking it off at the cable stop under the bb helped.

I bought my T2 Carbon in March, it has not turned a wheel in anger yet. The day after it arrived we went on holiday where…my heart dropped out of sync so I havent cycled since…However, I get it sorted in a fortnight so hopefully, a day or two afterwards it’ll make its maiden trip
Happy days.

How often are people having to do a bearing reset on the Lefty?

I am finding that I am losing the last 40mm of travel within 1 or 2 rides.

The bearing reset is quick and easy – but just wondering if I have an issue with my Lefty that needs looking at?

Done it once in 6 months. That doesn’t sound right to me…

Good luck Dave.
Hope your back to your best soon

Crashed and managed to snap the handle off my rear maxle on my trigger 4… Anyone got any ideas for a replacement? Will any 142mm axle work from dt Swiss etc?

Thanks

Anyone looked at brake pads for the Magura MT4’s yet? Am I right in thinking that with 4 pot brakes I might need 8 pads!!….

have just changed mine, I’ve used sintered ones from these guys on loads of my bikes.
You only need 2 pads per caliper – ie 2 lots of pads (£14ish)

http://www.discobrakes.com/?s=0&t=0&c=10&p=1566&tb=001

Cheers Rusty, I’ll give them a go.

Need your help guys. My fox dyad released an oily substance when I released the air pressure the other day, also it is not fully going back up so the shaft is showing when bike has no weight on it. Contacted mojo with no reply within two weeks. What am I best doing? Also I have lost the small o ring to gauge sag does anyone know where I can get a replacement from? Cheers in advance guys

My dyad did the same. Just boxed it up and posted it to mojo with the online waranty form. 4 days later it arrived good as new. O ring is just that an oring try a diy or car parts place prob end up with a hand full.

Crashed and managed to snap the handle off my rear maxle on my trigger 4… Anyone got any ideas for a replacement? Will any 142mm axle work from dt Swiss etc?

Yeah I replaced mine with a DT Swiss from CRC. Make sure you get the one for Syntace X2

If anyone is getting a creaking & cracking noise whilst pedalling under load try your rear axle; my Jekyll starts to get noisy after about 3 rides – you can’t really see or feel that it’s loose but undoing the QR lever and nipping the axle up a teenth of a turn always fixes this for me. It’s almost like it could do with knurling on the hub ends instead of just smooth alloy.

Also, did anyone get anything more than tubeless valves in the box, such as rim strips etc? Or are the rim strips fitted to wtb i23 supposed to be tubeless ready?

Did you contact pauls cycles or anything first or ring mojo? Or did you just send it using the warranty form?

The rim tape is already applied. Finally went tubeless last weekend but had to re tape 1 wheel as the tape around the valve wasn’t great.

The same happened to my dyad. I phoned them first and they recommended i do it online. They were very good to deal with.

They didn’t do very well at replying to my email lol. I can’t find the form on there website just wanted to see what info needs to be filled out like. Is the little o ring something that I can ask them for a replacement also?

The rim tape is already applied. Finally went tubeless last weekend but had to re tape 1 wheel as the tape around the valve wasn’t great.

Yes that what made me think it isn’t the right tape – the valve hole was a X cut into the tape and the innertube valve shoved through. The trouble is the X is too big so once I fitted the tubeless valve all my stans has pissed out again.

Oh oh, looks like my shock is losing negative air pressure-not a huge amount but I had an inkling it was and checked today before Stiniog tomorrow.

The initial love in with this bike has really worn off.

https://service.mojo.co.uk/login.aspx
Register here. Then book a service job.
Fill in the form and tick the box for warranty.
It will give you an address to send it to.
Put something to prove you bought the bike. I printed off an email from Paul cycles.

Thanks a lot crazy Mac your a legend. Am I best ringing mojo just to explain the issue I have had? When they have it do they give you a ring to let you know what if anything is wrong with is and what they have replaced?

You could phone them for piece of mind but I wouldn’t bother. It will be fixed under warranty as that fault seems pretty common.
They send an email when it arrives and give an estimate of when it will be ready. Then they email when it’s been sent back. You can track it.
Mine has been to them twice. It was out of my possession for 7 days both times. Nothing to worry about.
The quicker you send the quicker your back on the bike ?

[The rim tape is already applied. Finally went tubeless last weekend but had to re tape 1 wheel as the tape around the valve wasn’t great.
Yes that what made me think it isn’t the right tape – the valve hole was a X cut into the tape and the innertube valve shoved through. The trouble is the X is too big so once I fitted the tubeless valve all my stans has pissed out again.]

Mine held for 1 ride and developed a leak…. it waited until I’d loaded the bike onto the roof mounted carrier before leaking fluid all over the car roof and windscreen, made a right mess. After reading applying the tape it’s been fine.

Cheers dude. Is the postage pre paid or have to pay for it?

rubbish cable route and lack of factory fit downtube guard (although Cannondale make one for the carbon model) – Antur Stiniog rock strike.
[url=https://postimage.org/]image share[/url]

I use a piece of old tyre as a downtube protector, it works pretty well

Well that’s it. My work here is done. With the addition of a 150mm Reverb and offset bushings I have changed everything except the frame, fork, shock and cranks.
Soon be time for Paul’s to start knocking out this years bargains.

V nice Jekyll upgrade(s), if you don’t mind me how much did you spend on the wheelset?

A month ago I posted: the wheels cost $1010 inc postage and at the time that was £690. The exchange rate will no doubt have changed since. The tyres now feel totally planted and the worries about the hookless rims vanished the second I rode it.

Rims are the 30mm internals.