i want to put some decking down on top of my existing patio to raise the height of it .

can i just bung the frame on top of the patio slabs or does it need to be secured somehow??

cheers

steve

oh and show us ur decking jobs too!!

yes you can – unless it’s a tiny deck or in a very exposed / windy position there’ll be plenty of weight to secure it, on the other hand you might want to secure the odd rafter ‘belt and braces’ style. You could even just notch the rafter and put a big ‘staple’ over it into the ground.

Make sure the patio is sound and allows adequate water run off otherwise the framework will sit in standing water.

What I did was remove the slabs I did’t actually need in between so the decking frame sat on a 4 x 4 array of paving slabs which was enough to support it but allow gaps in between for drainage.

Back to original message – I didn’t secure mine but it is a 6m x 3.5m deck and the frame itself (of 6×3 pressure treated timber) was made in 2 halves and bolted together in situ and still needed 4 people to move it!

PS: there’s over 1400 decking screws in mine. Get a decent pair of knee pads and 2 drill drivers – one on charge while you use the other!!!

Exactly what Theotherjonv said, especially the knee pads and drills

And some plastic membrane under the wood where it touches the slabs

the smell of the disposed body will become oppressive in summertime

don’t cut corners now – bury it deep

or hire a hilti gun and get some ring shank nails …..

madness to sit and screw in 1400 screws , the thing will fall apart through rot before the nails start to pop out ….

What theotherjonv said – all good advice there

I wouldn’t go for nails myself but that’s up to you. But, please, please, please…when you screw the boards down, can you make sure the screws run in a straight line. If I’m ever having a beer on your deck, I’ll be forced to point out the crooked lines of screws otherwise (I need to get out more).

Two batteries would probably be ok though…don’t really need two drivers do you?

Do you know anyone who could lend you anything around 18V as a driver? Would make life a lot easier. You’ll wear a battery down in no time if it’s a low voltage cordless and you’ll shag the batteries using them after a half-charge (unless they’re LiIon…but too much info).

Finally, if you’re not over-burdened with lots of good kit, hire a decent circular saw for the day – it’ll save you loads of time. Also, if you’ve only got a cheap battery driver, then get a cheap plug in drill and pre-drill pilot holes for the screws (hee hee, this will also make it easier to do them in a straight line…use a piece of string).

2 drill drivers – one on charge

Obviously I’m very outdated as I use on that plugs in so no charging required – faux pas?

Obviously I’m very outdated as I use on that plugs in so no charging required – faux pas?

Not at all mate – if you’re not hindered by the length of position of the flex, then a corded one is a cheaper and just as powerful alternative. A decent battery driver (18V plus) is still £250 plus.

Second the screw gun, borrowed my dads, saves so much time.

oh and as for using nails, when you drop something onto the deck and it falls between the little gaps, you’ll wish you used screws!

If you mean one of these….then it’ll be a breeze. Don’t forget the ****ing string line though!!

cheers all some good info there!!