So I have a rear wheel that seems to be having real problems maintaining spoke tension. It’s an old (3yrs) white stans flow rim. In the last 12 months the spoke tension seems to be really dodgy. I’ve had it trued a few times in the last 12 months but everytime the spokes keep losing tension- to the point that one had almost unscrewed itself yesterday. So does anyone have any suggestions? Is the rim b***ocksed? Is there anything I can do to rectify it and avoid binning it?

Without seeing the wheel, I’d guess that while it’s been tried, the tension has never been balanced properly. Each time you take it to be tried, they’re just tightening the loose one until it runs true again which isn’t good enough.

All it needs is some time in the hands of someone who knows what they’re doing.

Funny how everyone who can throw a spoke at a wheel calls themselves a wheel builder and everyone who knows them says they’re the best wheel builder ever. It’s not hard, but it does need to be done properly.

I’d unlace the whole thing, degrease the spoke threads and replace the nipples and then re-lace it and true it up.

I should add that the rim has been abused somewhat so when tensioned it does have some spokes tighter than others but its necessary to get the wheel true. The guy who does my wheels also does a lot of work for others and we all trust his work- this is the first wheel I’ve ever had a problem with. The degreasing suggestion might be an idea. What’s the conscience on lock tight or ptfe thread tape?

I’d slacken the spokes off all the way and see just how bucked the rim is when under no pressure. There’s a limit to how well and evenly you can true a terribly buckled rim.

Neither, use engine oil, they shouldn’t need locking in place.

I should add that the rim has been abused somewhat so when tensioned it does have some spokes tighter than others but its necessary to get the wheel true.

If that’s the case, your rim is out of round, and can’t stay round because of the uneven spoke tension. You’d be better off with a slightly out of round wheel with even spoke tension; it should be able to stay usable without constant adjustment.

I have one wheel like this.

A properly tensioned wheel doesn’t need threadlock. If the spoke tension is intentionally uneven to make the damaged wheel true, and this is happening, it’s obvious the rim isn’t helping. It needs detensioning and rebuilding, you might as well stick a new rim in it.

I use linseed oil (cricket bat oil, teak furniture oil etc.) to lubricate spoke threads. It kind of sets over time, but without solidifying. This helps prevent nipples seizing and becoming difficult to adjust later on. I say helps, generally a few still do that, but most of the spokes in a wheel stay nicely adjustable when the time comes to true the wheel.

I’ve built wheels with pro-locks, oiled spoke threads and just oiled nipples at the point they meet the rim. I don’t think pro-locks are necessary, I found that more tension was required with oiled spoke threads and that simply oiling the nipple/rim was by far the best, especially for brass.

Yes I meant oiling the nipple/rim interface as well, that is also important.

“…simply oiling the nipple/rim was by far the best, especially for brass.“

Agreed. This is what I was taught ~25 years ago by someone who had, at that time, been building wheels for about 40 years.

Some things don’t need changing.