Hi folks

On one are about to look at this issue with me, but was wondering if this happened to anyone else.

Basically the past few rides, say 6-7, the rear wheel skewer always comes lose and the wheel almost comes out of the dropouts. Happened Tuesday after a 30mph road descent section. Pretty worrying really.
Its got new dropouts, and also a new DT Swiss RWS 10mm thru bolt as I thought my older 10mm camlock skewer was the issue.
Mate at work says it could be a frame alignment issue ?

Mine definetly moves in the dropout, the rotor rubs until I remove and replace the wheel

Someone on here was saying they ran a 12mm through axle, that’d solve it but I can’t find the dropouts anywhere.

Odd thing was it was ok initially. Told my lass about it not being safe to ride as the primer for getting a new bike lol.

chrishc777
Someone on here was saying they ran a 12mm through axle, that’d solve it but I can’t find the dropouts anywhere.

I run with a 12x142mm rear axle on my c456.

No official drop outs are available to do this, but because the std 9mm drop outs are very chunky, there is enough thickness in the plates to do a getto conversion 😉

When you say ghetto conversion I assume its just drilling it out to 12mm dia.

Just emailed photos off to them as requested. Not expecting much out of this tbh. Its an older black and red one way out of the 2 year warranty period.

Goes to check my C456!!!!!!

I’m in the process of building up a Production Shan, this will just make me buy/build quicker.

Ah now that makes sense. *goes and puts drill on charge*

Ah now that makes sense. *goes and puts drill on charge*

Thinking it might be tricky to drill that out by hand. You’re only taking 1mm off the drop out to alter the diameter from 10 to 12mm. Guessing a pillar drill and clamp solid to the bed would be the best bit as you could bugger up the tolerance/hole centre position.

Nah, it’ll be fine. 5 years in a machine shop must’ve taught me something

Kiss of death haha

You need to drill out the slot with a hole to 12mm, which is a bit tricky without a decent pillar drill because the drill wants to escape off down the slot! (i used a 12mm end mill rather than a drill)

But you also need to add a recessed slot to the inner edges of the plates (3.5mm per side) to accommodate the additional width (142mm wide vs 135mm wide)

Again, an end mill in a pillar drill, with carefull hand guidance, will do this, but a proper mill and bed makes it a lot easier!

Or just use a 12x135mm axle

Is this a common problem and something I should look out for?

My Carbon 456 Evo is on its way to me now.

Mine is non evo, and pretty sure the op’s is non evo as well. Does the evo have swapouts?

Yes the Evo has swapouts.

I did a Google search and didn’t find any other threads about the same issue.

Yep mines non evo. Tell you what though. If on one can sort me out I would be tempted to go back to a steel one again.

Mine has done it a couple of times but I’ve always put that down to the fact I had a hope QR in it. Changed it to an xt one and its been fine since

Ive got a steel Evo 2 as well. It’s what tempted me to give the carbon a go.

Hmm, mine did this a while back and I thought it was my error. Maybe not. Using deore skewers.

Wonder if its an issue with the non drive side dropout. It’s always bugged me on how little of the skewer actually makes contact with metal.

My steel 456 was worse. The wheel would come out on steep climbs! I got a carbon one because the steel one weighed as much as my 6″ full suss

My carbon 456evo used to have this problem. Changed to American Classic skewers and it’s ok. Have to screw up tight though. As above I think it’s the non drive side contact patch that’s was the issue

I’ve never had this problem on my C456. Use XT skewers. For balance n all.

No problem on mine (old C456, not Evo). Both on old Alexrims wheel and now a Stans Arch Ex with DTS 350 hub. I’ve used Hope skewer and now a DTS RWS thru. The latter feels more secure anyway but the regular skewer was fine done up tight.

My old ti456 evo *not lynksey*, used to do this, bought new skewers and it still did it.

I’ve used Hope skewer and now a DTS RWS thru

The RWS are the ones Im using now. Thought they were done up really tight compared to the normal 10mm skewer. Still waiting on response from On One. Probably going to have to be a case of make sure its super tight before every ride and cross my fingers for the duration.

Right then. First contact from on one. They cant see a problem from the photos they requested from me of the rear end. And also have never heard of any issues with with rear wheel coming lose and out of the dropouts whilst being ridden. Bloke on the other end of the email said hes going to get a mechanic to look at this on Monday for me.

Ok here it is then, the official solution from the head mechanic. Its a corker as well.

Grease the skewer and make sure its done up tight enough.