We spent a relaxed week in Kirkby Stephen earlier this year. It was like a trip to the 1950s, but quite pleasant. It’s a good place to ride a cross bike, lots of ace back lanes rubbish road surfaces. The off road stuff was mostly an interesting mix of tussocks and bog and that was in the nominal summer.
It was nice in a low key way, but a cultural desert. The chippy in Kirkby Stephen is entertaining though, there’s a sit-down area which you access by going behind the counter and a blurry photograph of Wainwright on the wall. They’d also just got a newly refurbed Co-op with self-service tills that terrified the locals…
There are loads of sheep. Oh, and the local pubs had discovered tourism and were all ludicrously overpriced.