Trying to change the bolts on my singlespeeds sliding dropouts so it matches the bolt size on my Alfine. No matter how careful I am, every now and then I go out with the wrong spanner, (or both) meaning I can’t get the wheel out and/or re-tension the chain.
It has Stainless M8 bolts, 16mm long with a 13mm hex head.
I would like to change them for M8, 16mm long but with a 15mm hex head.
Does anyone do oversized heads? I’ve tried searching for them with 15mm heads but its difficult as it just brings up all the bolts that are 15mm long!
I had seen them but its a bit cumbersome for a small camelback. I had a thread a couple of weeks ago searching for a compact 13-15mm spanner, the best you lot came up with was the PDW 3Wrencho which I’ve bought as it seems a good tool even if it only fits the Alfine for now.
Just hoping I can get these M8 bolts with an oversized head now…have emailed an ebay seller so impatiently waiting a response!
I was about to ask if it was feasible for a larger bolt to have its thread resized on a lathe, but the next size up, M10, is a 16mm head, so that’s no good.
Could you not change the bolts to capheads because you probably take a multitool with you anyway?
Someone makes a 15mm ally spanner I was thinking of a way of fixing it to the bike to prevent the wrong spanner moments as above. Other option is custom ally spanner 15 one end 13 other but it wouldn’t take much abuse, being ally and all
Never seen an M8 bolt with an oversize head, and I’ve worked on all sorts of odd vehicles and machines.
What’s the thread size on the Alfine ? It may be easier to get undersize nuts for that.
European M8 is usually 13mm spanner size.
Japanese is usually 12mm, if that makes it any easier to find a double ended spanner to fit both.
Personally, I’d go with porter_jamie’s suggestion of cap screws.
M8 takes a 6mm hex key, or you could use dome head bolts which take a 5mm key. Do you carry a multitool with these sizes ?
spooky_b329 – Member
Already changed the bolts from capheads (aka hex sockets)as you couldn’t torque them enough to stop the drop outs moving without rounding them off…
I had the same problem on a Voodoo years ago.
The paint was becoming plastic under the pressure and acting as a lubricant. Removed the paint around the slider and used thicker washers under the bolts.
End of problem and didn’t need to be so brutal on the tightening up.
Edit;
Just realised Breadcrumb linked to that right at the start, I didn’t spot it on my phone last night.
I’d go with his other idea of welding two spanners together then.
Where are you ?
If you’re anywhere near Kidderminster, I’ll do the welding.
bristolbiker – Member
Hijack – Epicyclo: Can you recall/link to where you got the wingnuts for the Alfine? I’d like to do the same to mine.
Thought I’d check which types fitted so you’d have a visual on what to look for. (These pics have all been taken on an Alfine)
Cyclo type – these are what is on my bike. Lots of cheapies about and some can break if you use too much force, but a lot of force is not necessary anyway.
Huret type – I suspect these didn’t originally fit this thread, but they do now. 🙂 (No, not me forcing them on)
Raleigh/Rudge type – the gold standard IMO. Be prepared to pay good money for these.
There’s plenty wingnuts on eBay but it’s a lottery as to what size they are unless you have a knowledgable vendor, but once you’ve used them you won’t want to use a spanner again, and you can get your wheel off in much the same time as a QR.
A blurred picture of some M8x16 flanged set screws with a 10mm hex head.
They are not stainless, but they are 10.9, so a bit stronger than normal 8.8 bolts.
I’ve got plenty, so if you can’t find a 13×15 spanner and want to carry a slightly smaller separate 10mm spanner, I can post them to you.
Posted 9 years ago
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