Hello everybody. I have found this issue for other forks, but not this one.
Anyway, its banging pretty hard on top out when rebounding. My understanding based on reading is that this is a problem and not normal. if its not a problem i will ignore it.

I bought a used surly ICT with the rock shox bluto 100mm already on it, the bike is pretty much unridden, but while the fork looks fresh the PO said he got it used, so its hard to say…

it is possible it had a remote on it that the PO yanked at sale, i kinda thought i saw one in the original ad.

I have not ridden it much, is it possible it just needs to cycle more oil in it?
If i have a chance to get it out tomorrow i will cycle it to full compression 20-30 times or so with it dialed to soft…

I Hardly have time to ride, let alone mess with the fork right now. Am i hurting it riding it like this, or should i ignore it till i have time in the winter?
I could swap the stock fork on, i probably will be doing that anyway for winter…

what should i check? I am very mechanically inclined but have not really had mtb shocks apart before. I did find the manual here https://sram-cdn-pull-zone-gsdesign.netdna-ssl.com/cdn/farfuture/sD7UES6538SVHnYz4fQo6JrY5ZLFBGD3jkHkB31DcZU/mtime:1490203293/sites/default/files/techdocs/gen.0000000005114_rev_c_2017-2018_reba_bluto.pdf
…but would love to know if this is normal for the shock before i start hunting down something that is not actually an issue.
I am probably going to put a cold weather kit in once i pull it off the bike anyhow.
thanks, any input is appreciated!

Best thing is to do a proper service on it, if a remote has been removed (not seen a bluto but seen other RS) it might not have been done properly.

Curious how you can’t remove a remote properly as it’s just a cable that opens and closes the damper.
I removed my oneloc remote and used a short piece of cable to fix the damper in the open position.
Unless the owner has swapped the RL damper for a wrong damper..

I’ve just swapped the RL damper on mine for an RCT3 and also serviced the fork.
It is the simplest of forks in my experience, pull it apart and find out what’s wrong.

Probably a touch low on damping oil.

Not enough negative pressure? Not sure if you have dual air or not.

Not sure what would cause it, but I can confirm that it’s not normal, if that’s any help 🙂

Probably a touch low on damping oil

Wouldn’t that be evident on lockout?

Mine do tend to suffer from damping oil slowly migrating into the lowers over time. It’s quite easy to tell if the level of damping oil is too low though. Just move the dial to the locked out position and push down. If the damping oil is below the level of the damper you’ll feel pretty much no resistance for a bit. Not sure why that would cause a knocking when it tops out though.