I have fitted SKS chromoplatic guards to my pompino but the bloody rear one is irritating me as it rattles like a good 'un on some road surfaces. The problem is that there is nowhere to attach the top of the guard to the frame i.e no hole for a caliper brake. Anyone had a similar issue and come up with a solution other than zip ties?

Can you not use a hose clip & trap a 'hanger' under it to fasten on the guard?

trap a 'hanger'

???????? What be one of those???

Zip ties work well and are neat, most other solutions (bar drilling the bridge) will look bodged IMO

Oh and the thread should be entitled "Blimming cut-price frames without proper fitments" 😉

Oh and the thread should be entitled "Pompino what a jolly good frame shame it's missing one of the fitments"

Fixed it for you 😀

???????? What be one of those???

Just a straight bit of alloy with a hole in one end should suffice

Put the hose clip around the seat stay [before it splits] & trap it under it

My pompino has a threaded hole for the mudguard to attach the top of the guard to. Have they changed the design?

Mine has that (stupid award of the day goes to me as I didn't think it was for mudguard mounting)I am concerned that the head of the bolt would rub on the tyre though, I am running 28s for commuting.

Nice big washers either side of the mudguard will make it last ,longer (though it will wear through eventually…like 5 years of daily use)

I'd grease/lanolin the bolt up and use a hex-head, it's easy for it to seize in and you can get more torque that way.

My pompy mudguard is mounted the same as simons, just drilled a hole through the guard. I use a bolt with a tapered head like this…

Lots of clearence, more than enough for the biggest size tyre you can fit in a pomps chainstays.

I also mount my mud guard stays on the chain tugs so the wheel is easier to remove…

I also mount my mud guard stays on the chain tugs so the wheel is easier to remove…

Now that really is a good idea 🙂

Monkeychild – as I can't be @rsed to go outside and check my Pomp…is yours a relatively new one? I had been wondering about how to overcome this problem when I get around to mounting guards.

STATO – how does that make it easier to remove the wheel? Not a criticism, just can't work it out.

Normally on bikes with mudguards and track ends you have to move the wheel back to get it out the dropouts, this means either A: leaving the rear of the mudguard far enough from the tyre to allow you to move it back, or B: Removing mudguard from the dropout mounts (by fitting release clips or unbolting it) to allow you to flex the rear of guard out enough to remove the wheel. My method means the mudguard can be fitted close to the wheel, as when you move the wheel to achieve tension the (rear of the) guard will always stay close to the tyre, and when you need to remove the wheel you can just pop the tugs off the axle and flex the guard out of the way. It also means you dont lose your tugs in the grass!

Stato, that's a really tidy solution. Are the chain tugs drilled to take the 'guard already, or did you drill and tap them?

Genius. That's a really neat idea.
I'm not going to drill mine yet though as I'm planning on switching to DMR chain tugs, much better than the on-one tugs in my experience.

Monkeychild – as I can't be @rsed to go outside and check my Pomp…is yours a relatively new one? I

Yeah it is one of the newer ones with the union jack on one logo instead of the gimpy looking guy 😆 I will just zip tie it up until I can go and buy a new screw.

The tugs are just the generic 'on-one' that came with the pomp. I drilled them and tapped them but they are very soft alloy (supprise supprise) so you have to be careful when doing up the bolts. Also, if you have the 'on-one' ones there is a thicher bit on them which is the best place to drill, youll see it if you take them off and it gives more support for the threads. I dont think the DMR ones will work like this as they have the tensioner bolts down the middle, there might be others out there that are better than both tho.

That's true about the DMR ones. I'll have to see if I can find a solution to that. Maybe a bolt that has an tapped eyelet at one end to loop around the tensioner bolts of the tug.

Still a cracking idea though.

I've bought a spare pair of the SKS plastic mounts and have those front and rear, which work a treat. Easy to pop the stays out to get the wheel out, but can still set up nice and close. I still prefer the horizontal dropouts on my (now sold) Cross Check to the track ends on the Steamroller when fitting mudguards.

AdamM – thats what i was going to do originally but as i run different sized sprockets im often having to move the rear wheel back/forward to acieve chain tension and this way i can move the wheel as much as i want without having to re-set the guards (ive had issues in the past with having guards too far from the tyre). Your way is still the best and easyiest to do for most users of track ends tho, good shout.