Anyone use one and are they any good/any issues?

I’ve bought one anyway, just not fitted, or had chance to use yet.

I had one on my hard tail before I sold it. Worked fine. I bought it to stop the chain slap and support the rear mech when going over bumpy stuff – worked well and also seemed to solve the chain suck issue I had – though in theory it shouldn’t have – so don’t take this as a suggestion for a solution to chain suck! Was noisy to begin with, but I messed around with its position on the chain stay a bit and put some proper grease on it to lube it and in the end it was silent. Its one of those ‘why wouldn’t you’? things – no real downsides or disadvantage to having it installed, and it probably has benefits having it installed, so why wouldn’t you?

These didn’t work when Dave made them.

Like mine. Fitted to steel HT 29er with 2×10 setup and standard mech. Does the job of retaining the chain well and doesn’t affect shifting.

These didn’t work when Dave made them.

Worked fine on my Kona for years (pretty old pic)

Had one on my hardtail until it managed to get tangled up in a nasty bit of chain suck. I lost the black slider bit and never got round to replacing it. The plus point was that it worked with a triple ring set up and stopped the chain flailing around too much. It’s a bit fragile though and replacement parts are relatively expensive…

My full suss has a clutch mech so not much use for it there

Worked well for about 4 rides on my Norco FS. Quiet and reduced chainslap but very flimsy. Might be better with some sip ties and some garden hose…

I’ve got a couple.

Got one originally for my Uzzi as it was the only dual ring device I could find that didn’t foul on the lower VPP link, or dangle so low as to get destroyed by every rock strike. Worked flawlessly, so I got one for my Rocket too. I have had the chain on that drop off once doing uplifts at Inners, so it’s not perfect, but it’s pretty good. Low weight, very low drag compared to rollers and quiet once it’s bedded in (a ride or 2). Certainly well up for anything trail riding related.

The only downside is the black plastic slidery bit can wear quicker than you think Peaks grit can saw through them quite quickly.

Ran one without issue for 6 months. The plastic grooves quite badly after a while and you need to flip it over. The downside is that it costs a tenner for a new one when both sides are worn (or it did last time I had checked).

Bit fiddly to put on with to begin with too.

One of these?

Not bad I suppose, seem to wear pretty quick and as said you need to flip the plastic guide. Got rid and gone back to 1×10 with a narrow wide now. Loads better and strangely enough feels less ‘draggy’….

🙂

Oh, the mounting broke too and it’s held on with some 3 core flex and tie wraps if you look closely.

Yes, I managed to destroy one like that too. Replaced under warranty.

Mine broke loads of times and eventually fell off completely and was lost, expensive and fragile. Make your own out of a bit of hose and a few zip ties.

Ah well – I’ll use it till it breaks, then see

made one out of an old reflector bracket and a small section of plastick tube.just spin the tube around every few rides and still ok after 6 months

I no longer have dropped chains and I used to have a A LOT. I did break the tube/zipties on first ride by falling on a rock though… Also I can’t seem to keep the black bit fully closed, but doesnt make any difference.

They work in my experience but are fragile and wear out over time as others have said, particularly if you ride through the winter months. I’ve used one with a single, a double and triple front set-up and the C-Guide worked fine. It keeps the chain on and reduces chain slap, albeit with some slight drag but it’s not noticeable.

Helpful tip: If you ride a full-suss make sure your chain is long enough at full compression through the C-Guide otherwise it’ll break when landing a drop 😕

If you run 10/11 speed a clutch rear mech works just as well and is quieter; although they are more costly initially they work out better value in the long run I think.

My mod, 3 layers of roadbike inner tube and run chain on sacrificial zip tie

On my second. Rode a few times and drastically reduces chain slap (3×9), but fell apart half way along South Downs way, which is mostly fields and bridle path, so not impressed.

Had to pay for a replacement as thus would not change under warranty (leisure lakes), but got it half price. Refitted and wil see how it goes. Probably cheapest option, apart from a home bodge.

Running one on my Yeti ASR5 – suffered dropped chain quite a bit for some reason. Not now, had no problems, in well over a year of use, with fragility/wear/noise and it’s regularly ridden in the Peak and Lake Districts. Fit & (relatively) forget in that you don’t have to remember to flick a switch, unlike on clutch mech…

I’m another “it was great until it broke”.

That’s a fine piece of work Wobbem 🙂

Yeah mine worked well but eventually died through the chain wearing through it. I think the replacement plastic duffer is about £7.

Got a clutch mech now and its not so much of a problem.

Yup, been using mine for about 4 months and it’s been great. Got it half price of eBay, so had to flip it straight away due to the groove in it. Seems to work pretty well on my 1×9 hardtail. It doesn’t prevent chain bump off the top though – I also run an MRP for that. Some quick tips if you get one – you need to position it back from the tyre. This looks less ‘cool’ but is needed in case the guide rotates into the tyre and gets ripped off. Also, you need thick cable ties and more than 2 of them for security. I use an old inner tube for a chainstay protector, which means the zip ties are pretty secure. Finally, I used to run the chain with 1 link extra over the big cogs. You’ll need a couple more links worth of slack with this to allow it to swing properly, otherwise your rear mech may get pulled out of whack.