Viewing 14 posts - 1 through 14 (of 14 total)
  • Bikepacking with a dropper?
  • chevychase
    Full Member

    Droppers are ace. They make some riding a real pleasure, but would you attach something like an Alpkit Koala to one?

    Obviously you’d not use the full drop whilst it was on – but what I want to know – would wear and tear bugger the dropper structurally? They’re necessarily smooth things – would the tug/rub of something like that affect the dropper?

    Does anyone bikepack with one? Thoughts? 🙂

    johnnystorm
    Full Member

    Whack a section of pipe lagging foam over the top?

    Or I have seen a second cut down seatpost bolted on the rails behind the dropper and mounting the bag to that. If rs still do enduro collars you could use one to let you drop as far as the bag allows.

    scotroutes
    Full Member

    Wolftooth do a little collar thing that you fit round the top of your seatpost.

    Postierich fitted a second seatpost to the saddle rails, behind the dropper, to attach the bag to.

    Thing is, with a saddle bag on you can’t really drop the seat much anyway

    chevychase
    Full Member

    I can see the Wolftooth collar thing. Interesting but only for smaller bags.

    I know you can’t drop the seat by much, but a couple of inches is sometimes a great help – and when you’re unladen you get the whole range.

    Not sure about the second seatpost deal tho. Must be a better solution.

    benp1
    Full Member

    Yep, I use pipe lagging or a cloth. Limited drop, but still handy

    honeybadgerx
    Full Member

    I just wrap some insulating tape round the post.

    rugbydick
    Full Member

    Has anyone tried using a Topeak Beam Rack (with dry bags, etc bungee’d onto the top), attached to the non-moving portion of the dropper?

    I reckon there’d be enough clearance between my back wheel and the rack (still need to fit and check). Not sure about side to side movement though.

    mattbee
    Full Member

    I tried a beam rack on a Thomson dropper. By the time it was tight enough not to move on rough ground it made the dropper action sticky like a too tight seatclamp .

    chevychase
    Full Member

    I heard that too – and that even then they still swing a bit.

    Foam/lagging seems favourite. Could get a bit of pool-noodle type stuff and cut it to the exact length that you’d need to form a buffer so when you drop your post you’d know how far down you could go before you’d risk your seat bag hitting the rear wheel.

    swanny853
    Full Member

    Wolftooth do a little collar thing that you fit round the top of your seatpost.

    I abused 3D printer privileges at work to make my own version of that a while back- it clamps high then has an ‘outer’ tube that stands off the stanchion and fits over the collar so you can support the bag a long way down the post and still drop a decent distance.

    [/url]Packed up and ready to go by MatGoesSomewhere, on Flickr[/img]

    All the clamping is done above the strap- I think I still had maybe 75mm of travel, ish. It comes apart in two halves. Still mk1 so held together with zip ties and using a rockshox enduro collar doodad to brace it at the top. Not a peep out of it on the BB200 but I admit I haven’t used it since.

    vincienup
    Free Member

    Is such a large collar necessary?

    Never tried a koala type saddle pack on a dropper but I can see the issue.

    In theory if it stayed still you only really need a collar as wide as the bag strap I’d think – so is the oversize to take up the inevitable movement of the bag strap walking up and down or to prevent the bag crashing into the rear tyre / being buzzed by it?

    jimdubleyou
    Full Member

    There’s a thread on here with some pictures of what folks have done.

    I’m going to use a cut down synthetic chamois and an enduro collar to limit the drop (which will be about 4cm max I think).

    Not used in anger yet, so will see how it goes.

    swanny853
    Full Member

    Is such a large collar necessary?

    The height above the strap is where the clamping happens so the post can drop further. The height below is partly to allow some adjustment, partly extended down to overlap the collar of the reverb so that there’s no chance of them catching on each other on compression

Viewing 14 posts - 1 through 14 (of 14 total)

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