Viewing 24 posts - 41 through 64 (of 64 total)
  • Bike/general workshop/cabin/shed/garage arrghhh!
  • tymbian
    Free Member

    I meant waney edge pine..

    andyl
    Free Member

    I was eyeing up dungwall in the agri store the other day as they had it on offer for about £3/m + vat. 2″ thick and 200mm high with T&G and is pressure treated. Next time I build a shed I think I might try that for more of a log cabin look and feel and I can’t see it being easy to break through!

    I am just finishing off trying to make the best of one from a place called urban forest timber buildings who I suggest you avoid like the plague. Terrible quality and even worse customer service. As the roof was so bad I couldn’t re-felt it so have gone for box section steel cladding which cost about £220 including all screws and trim for a 16×10 shed/workshop.

    tymbian
    Free Member

    Andyl have a look for loglap. It’s like shiplap only more loggy.

    Just had a look at the Dungwall..50mm thick that’s quite substantial..

    br
    Free Member

    tymbian

    While the outside style isn’t for me, love the interior fittings (and quality).

    Although rather than the heater after-thought you could’ve gone for oil-filled rads under the seats – the Champagne Bar at St Pancras has these.

    robdob
    Free Member

    That dungwall is fantastic!

    robdob
    Free Member

    What sort of insulation is best to use? I am guessing the thickness of the wall timbers determines how think the insulation would be – but is an air gap needed at all?

    I’d like some insulation as I could put a small heater in and the heat would hopefully not be lost immediately.

    One thing I need to do is find a decent wood supplier. Should be plenty round here.

    robdob
    Free Member

    Tymbian – what’s the roof on yours? The whole build looks excellent. (Note to self – build workshop in a normal shape!)

    tymbian
    Free Member

    @ b r…..the heater wasn’t an after-thought. The idea is that the heater can be put away in the garage in summer. The under-seating storage is for the cushions from the decking furniture but idea duly noted though for my next build.

    Robdob. .the roof is cedar shingle.

    Studwork- 100mm
    Celotex insulation 80mm/ building wrap/ baton/ loglap cladding.

    andybrad
    Full Member

    i bet thats really handy for storing the bikes / messy garden tools

    and how much did it cost?

    Gunz
    Free Member

    Rob, if you’ve made a double glazed window I’m sure you’ll have the skill for a workshop build. Ref your original post, I’d always recommend a mitre saw as I use mine a lot but have you seen the price of nail guns? I’d have to be doing a lot of nailing to justify one of those. Good luck with it though.

    DaRC_L
    Full Member

    I used local wood recycling for my shonky shed, just about to insulate it.

    I was inspired by this pallet shed & got the pallets for free.

    During the build the difference was that none of the pallets I got were of a uniform design/build so the bolt approach suggested in that web site didn’t work. I ended up using metal plates to link them together.

    robdob
    Free Member

    Gunz – my thoughts exactly. I would be keen on buying a good quality sliding mitre as I am reasonably confident with mitres using a block and tenon saw but it is a PAIN IN THE BUM. My dad taught me to buy quality stuff so if I get a decent one I can use it for other projects later on.

    Nail guns – I probably wouldn’t buy one, maybe rent. However I prefer screws so would probably screw together most of it where possible.

    It’s all guesswork at the moment anyway, it will depend on how much spare room the new house has outside. It may already have a concrete base I can use which may dictate the size I can build, or I might have to make my own, or maybe concrete posts in and suspend it off the floor a little rather than a concrete base.

    DaRC_L – love the pallet shed idea, certainly would save a lot of money for the basic structure. Doubt it go down well with the new neighbours initially – looks shoddy to start off with!

    robdob
    Free Member

    Bump for the Thursday shed folk… 😉

    DaRC_L
    Full Member

    Yeah the Pallet Shed didn’t go down too well with my neighbours either, plus it’s right upto 2.5 metres.

    They’ve settled down a bit now it’s clad and they’ve realised it has a flat roof.

    robdob
    Free Member

    I’m up for doing it now. I think I’d like something with a widish single door, a pent roof (for ease of construction), and maybe up to 5x3m to stay within planning. As far as windows go I can probably make my own now, done it before! I have a local glass company who can make any double glazing window pane in any size and thickness, can do obscure glass too (very useful for security!) very cheaply – was only £12 for my last pane which was about 90x50cm.

    If I budget a decent amount of money for it it should be ok, I’d like to use recycled but new timber is obviously going to be more uniform and easier to build with.

    robdob
    Free Member

    Any other ideas/examples about?

    DaRC_L
    Full Member

    Have a look here too… One Grand Design

    mcmoonter
    Free Member

    Here’s mine. built as a studio where light was the key objective, but cladding the walls in timber would make an excellent shed.

    http://www.petermclarenfineart.com/Blog/Studio-Build-Blog

    tymbian
    Free Member

    This was a pretty simplistic build as in 3 sides built on the floor and then screwed onto the base and at the sides into each other, roof then doors..

    robdob
    Free Member

    McMoonter – thanks very much, I hadn’t seen the link to your blog before.

    How did you secure the posts in the ground? I am concerned about them rotting in the damp ground if I chose that method.

    robdob
    Free Member

    Tymbian – is that a self design or a kit one you bought? Looks fantastic.

    tymbian
    Free Member

    @Robdob ..they are both self designed. The latter now has decking built up to meet it.

    tymbian
    Free Member

    ..and as for an expensive sliding compound Mitre saw I used one of …these
    Spend an hour or so checking and adjusting the angles

    Also buy a large framing square like this..

    mcmoonter
    Free Member

    McMoonter – thanks very much, I hadn’t seen the link to your blog before.

    How did you secure the posts in the ground? I am concerned about them rotting in the damp ground if I chose that method.

    The posts are just set in the ground with the same material from the hole. It’s a rocky sandy material about a foot down. The posts were dug eighteen inches deep. The water off the roof is all guttered away and the generous overhanging roof means the ground the posts occupy is dry. The posts were treated beforehand, so I don’t anticipate them rotting quickly.

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