Viewing 12 posts - 1 through 12 (of 12 total)
  • Better to fix and sell or just sell?!
  • RopeyReignRider
    Free Member

    So.. There’s a slim possibility that I’ll be selling my frame and forks.

    The thing is that the frame needs about £120 spent on it for bearing and bushing replacement (paying someone competent to do it) and probably a £100 shock service (it’s never had one).

    The forks need a £100+ service having never been touched other than a lower leg service.

    So what’s a 2010 Intense Tracer VP worth knackered compared to fixed?

    Likewise for 2010 RS Lyrik solo air RC2DH’s ??

    Ta

    euain
    Full Member

    I’d be tempted to do the frame bearings/bushes (and shock bushes if they are rattling) as I’d be worried buying a bike that had loose pivots or rattles. Same as if the headset / bb was loose, I’d wonder how little maintenance had been done.

    Shock and Fork service – if they’re still working as they should (no leaks, adjustments working, damped), I’d not bother and be honest if the buyer asked.

    That’s just my opinion based on what would bother me if I was looking to buy the bike though.

    stevied
    Free Member

    I sold a very good condition Intense 6.6 frame for £400 (repainted, new(ish) bearings, custom made linkage)
    2014 Lyrik RC2DH for £200 in immaculate condition.

    edit: the bearings aren’t that expensive and are relatively easy to change. If you’re anywhere near Malvern I’d happily help do them

    Fresh Goods Friday 696: The Middling Edition

    Fresh Goods Friday 696: The Middlin...
    Latest Singletrack Videos
    RopeyReignRider
    Free Member

    Thanks stevied but I’m oop north ish near Chesterfield.

    I think the frame bearing themselves are about £50 but thought that fancy tools were needed to remove the old ones. Perhaps they’re not.

    So.. I’m guessing I’d get no more than a £100 for a 2010 Lyrik? That’s utterly depressing considering the RRP and how good they are!

    Scienceofficer
    Free Member

    Well, if I was looking from frame and forks, I’d write off a fork that was 5 years old and never serviced. Same for the rear shock too. Internals are likely to be gubbed, and the cost of replacement hard part’s stacks up quickly. That means I’d have to plan for new shocks. Plus the rebuild cost of the bushes and bearings?

    The economics don’t stack up unless the value of the the frame was close to zero, so I’d be walking on by for something else.

    stevied
    Free Member

    You should be able to get the bearings cheaper than that. I think a set of 10 for my 6.6 were about £25-30. No special tools need for my frame and I guess the Tracer is pretty similar. I did make up a cheap bearing press using some threaded bar and a couple of big washers which worked well.

    nickjb
    Free Member

    What is the wheel size and headset size? 26″ wheels and straight steerer frames are going for very little, conversely forks like that are are making reasonable money. If its 650B and tapered then you should get a bit more. I doubt you’ll recoup the money spent on servicing but it might make an easier sale. personally I’d sell as is for a quick sale. If it is all worn and in need of work then you’ve had some use out it.

    RopeyReignRider
    Free Member

    Frame is 26″ but runs a full 1.5″ headtube so can take 11/8th , tapered or 1.5″ steerers.

    The forks have had a lower leg service but not damping components. They don’t seem fubered but they don’t feel great either.

    Stevie- how do you remove the old bearings? I had a feeling they can’t be knocked through

    Scienceofficer
    Free Member

    ‘…They don’t seem fubered (sic) but they don’t feel great either…’

    You’re talking to actual mtbers here (well, some of us ride). I suppose it depends on how often the semi bath has been done.The odds are high that a low volume semi-bath fork of that age has worn stanchions unless it’s been done regularly. The only way I’d buy a fork that old is if I had a comprehensive set of HQ pictures of the uppers when the fork is disassembled, and I’d want it in my mitts to test for bushing play too. Or I’d pay for buyer protection via eBay and ask some pointed questions before committing.

    RopeyReignRider
    Free Member

    I get the feeling you’re not making me an offer scienceofficer 😀

    Scienceofficer
    Free Member

    I’ve always been cagey about secondhand big ticket items. Don’t take it personally!

    That said, forum regulars tend to get some extra trust, so you never know!

    stevied
    Free Member

    Stevie- how do you remove the old bearings?

    On the 6.6 I removed the rear swingarm complete. The lower link bearing can be knocked out with a screwdriver from either side, the swingarm ones were done by putting the bearing seats on a slightly bigger diameter (than the bearing) socket and tapping through. I then used a home-made press to put the new ones in.
    The Tracer may be different?

    This may help: https://dhreno.files.wordpress.com/2007/05/vppbearing_replacement.pdf

Viewing 12 posts - 1 through 12 (of 12 total)

The topic ‘Better to fix and sell or just sell?!’ is closed to new replies.