Sorry if this has been asked a billion times, but I’m looking for the best way to bleed XT brakes.

I’ve just fitted a new XT M8000 groupset and the brakes feel a tad spongy, I’ve had a look online and dependant on where you look some prefer to push the oil up from the caliper and some down from the reservoir.

Coming from years of bleeding Hope brakes which are so easy to bleed it all seems a bit of a faff. I have some mineral oil, a Reverb syringe that fits the reservoir and loads of tube for the caliper along with various syringes.

So is it push up or down?

I’ve always preferred “bottom-up” with Shimano, though I note that the instructions for the new models are bottom-up and then top-down. The wee funnel certainly makes it pretty much mess-free.

Thanks, going to pick up a funnel today as it does look a lot easier with one. Does the tube not pop off the caliper when you push the oil back up?

Not with the nipple open.

Both ends I start at the caliper and bleed up then bleed lever down too which you can’t do with he funnel. Check the epic bleed kits site for good instructions. You don’t need a funnel I use 2 syringes, as long as you cover the open end of the syringe or put the plunger back in you won’t make a mess.

Funnel and bottom up on all ours. Once its pushed through we suck it back and forth with the syringe a few times. Tend not to bleed them that often as it seems to work well that way.

Err, yes you can – and that’s exactly what Shimano tell you to do
http://www.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/SI/Deore-XT/SI_0116A/SI-0116A-001-00-Eng_v1_m56577569830746864.pdf

Worth noting that the Shimano brake changed massively around the M666 and a lot of the ‘information’ about bleeding them relates to the old design. M675,M785 and 8000 XT should be bled per the instructions in the box with the bleed funnel, which turn out to be exactly the recommendation from Epic also.

The only additional points of note are that the bite screw on the XT’s needs to be open and that many like to add an extra stage at the end with pads in and disc spacer to effectively overfill the brake and make the lever bitier and less progressive although this effectively wrecks a lot of Shimano’s work in design.

The very best tip on them though is a one liner buried in the Shimano instructions to the effect that if there seems to be air trapped you just can’t shift, check everything is done up, empty the system and start from scratch as if you just put a new line on. It’s a big time saver.

Follow the instruction, the end.

There’s a great guide and video on the epic bleed solutions website.

Put a bleed funnel onto the cylinder and burp before you try a full bleed – it often sorts things out ..

I have spongy m8000 too. After much faffing around the back one is now ok, just, but the front is going back for a warranty replacement. Feels like the piston seal has gone in the lever now.

Won’t be buying again, nothing but constant trouble with these new xt’s. Hope next time 🙁

I just shortened and bled my new 875s today, using a syringe and a cloth. Wrap the cloth around the reservoir, pipe and syringe on the caliper. Wheels and pads off, pump the Pistons out a bit, unscrew the free play screw. Bleed from caliper up to reservoir, flick the lever a few times to release the last bubbles, top off the reservoir, cap on, clean up. Push the Pistons back, refit pads and wheels, screw in the free play screw. Now almost no free play and brakes scary, wow! Possibly too responsive so if I’m out the front door on next weekends race I will let you know…

Bled them last night following the instructions on the Epic site, levers are now solid but I have very little in the way of stopping power (just riding up and down the street).

Rotors were cleaned thoroughly before fitting and there is/was no chance of pad contamination during bleeding.

Presume it’s just a case of get out there and let them bed in?

P.s. left the ‘free play’ screw alone during bleeding.

bluearsedfly – Member

Bled them last night following the instructions on the Epic site, levers are now solid but I have very little in the way of stopping power (just riding up and down the street).

Rotors were cleaned thoroughly before fitting and there is/was no chance of pad contamination during bleeding.

Presume it’s just a case of get out there and let them bed in?

P.s. left the ‘free play’ screw alone during bleeding.

Yeah if the lever is solid – assuming the callipers are aligned and the pads contaminated it’s just a case of bedding in – 4-5 big stops from a decent speed usually does it.