Hi

I have four bearings to replace on my Canyon Nerve AM 8.0x rear Rocker which I have ordered from Simply Bearings Uk:-

626-2RS 6x19x6mm X2
608-2RS 8x22x7mm X2

I’m wondering whether I should purchase a bearing puller? Has anyone done similar? Presumably I could use bearing pullers on other bearings and wheel hubs as and when the time comes. (justifying the cost)

Is there a down side to a bearing puller? (i.e could you end up pulling out only the inner race if the bearing is knackered.)

this one from Superstar £70
http://superstar.tibolts.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=36&products_id=595

or this one on eBay £27
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Inner-Bearing-Puller-Set-Kit-Remover-5-PCS-Blind-Internal-Slide-Hammer-/251200174098?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item3a7cb27812

As for fitting the replacements, I thought I could just carefully drift them in with a spare socket – or even the old bearing.

Or, should I buy individual bearing press tools like these?
http://superstar.tibolts.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=529

Cheers
Al

I think the Superstar one only goes down to 8mm ID, watch that.

Not all bearings need a puller or anything more clever than a hammer and a drift, truly blind bearings are fairly uncommon.

Sockets make excellent bearing fitting tools, though I reckon it’s easier (or less likely to go wrong) if you press them in with a threaded bar through the middle, instead of hammering.

I make my own pullers from drilling a piece of wood (like a bit of old batton) with flat wood bits the correct size and using long bolts and thick washers. You can drill all the sizes you need into one bit of wood and label it up for use next time. Soft wood has the benefit of not damaging frames etc. It’s very quick and easy to make too.

For larger bearings I have used headset spacers inside innertubes to protect the paint before.

Personnally for £30, if I didn’t have one, I’d be seriously tempted by that ebay one. I’m sure SSC’s was cheaper, but then it does come with double the ‘fittings’ that the ebay one does, which does count for quite a lot. The heads/fittings are bloody expenive otherwise.

BUT as said, many bearings on a bike do not need a bearing puller, access can be gained and a hammer/drift will do the job.
BUT when you do get a bearing that falls apart leaving the outer race in a impossible place to access, the bearing puller is worth it’s weight in gold…

BUT when you do get a bearing that falls apart leaving the outer race in a impossible place to access, the bearing puller is worth it’s weight in gold…

Aye that is a total PITA, I’ve had to use a dremel to get one out.

Threaded rods and sockets will do the job most of the time. In fact I bought the proper tool for my Blur and it was essentially just that.

I bought the individual press to do the back end of my tracer 2 and it took 5 minutes to change 4 bearings. Really easy to do!

I managed this in the end with my workbench vice and some metric sockets.

The rocker actually separates into two septate pieces, meaning the above technique worked.

I still like the look of that ebay puller. Just need to justify the purchase :o)

Cheers