Excellent, thanks Scruff

Just bought a second-hand V2 from someone on here. Very excited about it, although I only have about half the bits for the build 🙁

Wilko, what bits do you need? I am going to be stripping down my banshee next week and most of the parts are not compatible with my new frame.

Mac I’m after a 50mm stem, black 150 solo 650b Pikes (or poss 160), 650b tubeless tyres, headset for tapered forks and a 1×11 drivetrain. Fair bit left to get!

I’m pondering a bit of geometric tweakery on mine, not because it doesn’t ride great but now I’ve got used to the lower slacker setting I’m curious about how it’ll feel if I go even further…

Thinking of sticking a -2 deg headset in there and dropping the fork to 150mm, which will lower the BB by 7mm, increase the reach by 10mm, steepen the seat angle by 0.9 deg and slacken the head angle by 1.6 deg: 64.1 deg head angle on a 140mm bike, what could possibly go wrong? 😉 I blame Chris Porter and the Mojo Geometron for this crazy thinking!

Ah wilko, sorry i was running 26″ wheels and fork so cant help you that way.

Sorry 🙁

Ah shame, never mind.
Chief you’ll have to let us know how your ultra slack experiment goes. I’m coming from a Blur LT so the Spitfire is quite a bit longer and slacker even in the neutral setting.

If anyone has spares, I’m after set of neutral dropout chips, for a new spitfire. I assume older ones will fit, email in profile.

Finally built up my second-hand (bought from lobby_dosser who posted on this thread way back on page 1) Spitfire. No photos as yet but I’m very pleased with how its looking. Quite a predictable build though really 1×11 XT, Pikes at 150mm, EX471 rims on 350 hubs, CCDB air.

The only problem now is I’m faced with a bewildering array of adjustments to tinker with! First ride this Sunday morning – wet, muddy DH tracks in FoD 🙂

Anybody had problems with frame alignment? Had my new warranty frame in Oct, about a month later my inline had wear marks on one side of the damper tube, by Dec it was even worse.

So I got a warranty done on the inline. Its been approx 2 months and Im getting worn marks on the same side of the damper tube again. 🙁

I’m sure I read of someone having a warranty replacement because of that. Are you within 2 years since buying your original frame?

Yeah got the original in Oct 2014. Maybe I am just really unlucky with them, they are amazing bikes to ride.

Will take it into local dealer today.

Had the bike checked by Ison, frame alignment is fine. Apperently the shock bushing was misaligned?

Anybody using another shock other than an inline with a spitfire?

Thinking of selling mine

Mine has a CCDBair-CS. Can’t fault it! Definitely due a service based on hours and miles but still feels good. Satisfying to notice the warm dry piggyback (and calipers) on an otherwise wet and muddy bike at the bottom of longer downhill runs.

Did they sort out the bushing alignment on the shock when you got your warranty replacement? I’ve heard the Inline had QC problems on the early production runs that were all sorted now.

@chief – well they said in the notes “was misaligned” so I’m assuming they did.

I’m sure the CCdbair is a better shock by far, this is my 3rd inline pretty much in just over a year and its completely lost all its damping after being serviced by tf middle of Dec.

I was thinking about getting a monarch RC3? or one of the new fox.

thoughts?

bump ^^

If I were you I’d badger the Cane Creek distributor for a heavily discounted CCDBair-CS on the grounds that your Inline is not fit for purpose. If you’re on the 3rd shock in so little time and this one has failed again I think you’d be within your rights to reject it and demand a full refund, just as car owners can when their new car is plagued with problems.

Actually it might be Ison who are liable as they’re the Banshee distributor and the shock came with the frame.

I’ve had great service from Ison when I had an issue of my own making.

After some 650b dropouts if anyone has some kicking around.

Once tf sort the shock I will try ison for a refund. In the meantime I’ve bought one of the new fox dps shocks. Ride report tomorrow 🙂

Has anyone on here got a 2016 in gunmetal? Unless I can get a good deal on a 2015 frame, that’s what I’ll be going for. Interested to see one built up as not seen one in that colour yet.

I’ve got a 2015 in Raw, only got it in Jan, bloody weather / holidays scuppered riding. Should have been out tonight in Peaks……lashing it down…..again. Send u a pick Mark if ya like?

Pictures are always welcome Nick!
I’ve been considering a Spitfire for ages, but it looks like it’s finally going to happen.

I’m sure the gunmetal will look good. I didn’t think I would like the yellow, but once I got it I thought it looked awesome! So dont discount that! 😉

It looks like most people on here are running the CCDB Inline? I’m a bit concerned about the reports of poor reliability, especially as I’m 100kg! Are they better now or is it worth looking at Fox CTD or Monarch?

Fox CTD on mine, was considering changing it straight away for a CCDB Inline. First ride out on Sat, have to say, pretty impressed with the Fox despite the weather, on an extremely slippy wet muddy climb, stuck like sh1t to a blanket in Climb mode. Very rocky techy (& wet) descent, in Descend mode, very plush and a nice “poppy ” feel to it, all stuff in between set on Trail mode and to be honest, would have probably been fine in Trail all ride. Old bike had a CCDB Air on it, had to really dial it to get a good all round performance from it. So Mark, if the new bike comes with Fox, you won’t be disappointed, if it comes with a CC, be prepared for a fair amount of twiddling to get it right. Either way, get ya cash down pal!!!

Cheers Nick.
I’m torn. I’ve got the option of a 2015 frame at a decent price, but I would have to add a shock, or a 2016 frame which comes with a Monarch RT3.

I’m a bit ham fisted so like to keep my set up as simple as possible which puts me off the CCDB Inline, but I have tested a couple of bikes with it and really like the feel of it.

Mine has a CCDBair-CS (it’s a 2014 model which predates the Inline). It’s great! I set it to the base tune, slowed down the HSR after a while, then sped it back up again later and haven’t touched it in over a year. Although they appear complex, if you start at the base tune and are methodical and subtle in your adjustments I think they’re dead easy to tune. Just don’t start randomly twisting knobs and hoping!

Same – ccdb air and it’s great so far. I was worried about the amount of adjustments but all I’ve done is set it at the base tune and changed one thing – slowed down the hsr. I was ‘nosing’ jumps with steeper lips which is something I’ve not experienced before. Slowing down the hsr seemed to help, or maybe it’s all in my head but I’m flying straight again now which is all that matters!

I was giving mine a once over at the weekend, spotted a couple of bits of white worm and rusting around the bearings, before I contact the shop/Banshee I wondered if any other owners have similar issues.

[url=https://flic.kr/p/E7EzPa]Untitled[/url] by Matt Cotterill, on Flickr
[url=https://flic.kr/p/ETypbs]Untitled[/url] by Matt Cotterill, on Flickr
[url=https://flic.kr/p/EvyMm8]Untitled[/url] by Matt Cotterill, on Flickr

Re the Inline question – Just for balance, I’ve been running one on a Banshee Prime for a year, not a single problem. Bit of trial and error, plus a bit of learning to get it set up, but a great shock.

Demoed the same frame with a DB Air CS, no difference for me, but then I ride mostly in the Tweed Valley, not the Alps.

@momo – aren’t they just scratches in the clear-coat, and rust from steel bearing shells?

I can see rust on the exposed bit of outer race of my bearings. Have you ridden it on salted roads?

My raw frame was the same with the bearings…kind of looked like pitting of some kind. I changed the bearings fine though so I wouldn’t worry too much.

Some Spitfirey thoughts – I hadn’t realised how good the Banshee stealth finish is until I saw the marks already developing on my new stealth hardtail. For the black frames they shotblast the frame with rubberised decals, then peel the decals off and anodise, so the finish is more gloss where the decals were and more matt where the alu got blasted. Incredibly tough, still looks great after two years of abuse. Battery dying, will continue later…

Ordered my Spitfire yesterday. Almost a year of pondering since I did a test ride. Gone for the 2016 gunmetal with CCDB Inline and Halo Vapour wheels. Already have my Renthal cockpit, Pikes and Reverb sat at home waiting. XT 1×11 Groupset to be ordered today.

Still need to decide what brakes, pedals and tyres I’m going to put on it.

My CCDB inline has just come back from TF tuned, full warranty service after a low speed seal fault / chriping noise, had it 4 1/2 months. Works brilliantly now though.

Stupid question time… when installing cranks, do you leave the ISCG insertion even if you’re not using it? And what are you doing with spacers?
I’m using XT 1×11 but not sure about spacing to get the right chainline. The cranks didn’t come with instructions and can’t find them on Shimano website.

I don’t use the iscg mount, had to put bb spacers on to take up the equivalent iscg thickness, Otherwise bb was loose.