Interesting! Although I do quite like the silver, so I think Ill keep it.

Where are you planning on going on the moor v666ern? There are a few quite fun loose descents to be had! (wouldn’t recommend the slack low setting for it though.. quite a bit of pedal strike)

bwall, depends on timing with family but hoping for manaton, water, lustleigh then out onto the moor…my knowledge is limited so following gpx’s! alternatively something nr south brent exploring.

Thanks for the info on the head badge, it grates me as i have silver T1 brakes which arent helping 😳

Interested in this loose descents, fee free to send me a gpx/strava me and i can rip one off! 😉 😀

Sounds like a good ride! The places I’ve ridden tend to be further south around Princetown. This is the descent I was thinking of Widowmaker.

On a more bike related note. Does anyone else find the CCDB inline to be really very wheezy?

bwall – Member
On a more bike related note. Does anyone else find the CCDB inline to be really very wheezy?

Yep, mine sounds like a cross between a wheeze and a squelch

cross between a wheeze and a squelch

Pretty good description of it. Its also started returning to full travel with a clunk whenever I unweight/hop the bike. Not the most encouraging thing. Had me looking at a Float X.

Sounds like a good ride! The places I’ve ridden tend to be further south around Princetown. This is the descent I was thinking of Widowmaker.

Lol yep, done it twice once in the snow and once in torrential rain…dry you say!?!

Yep i’ve got the slurp as well, coming from the last version float x as well but happy to give it sometime first…well until it inevitably dies and i have to warranty it 😕

Yep have done it in the dry before, I wouldnt say dusty.. but not far off. I find the loose rocks and ruts great fun.

What I would say, if you can ignore the noise the shock can feel amazing. (Until it dies)

My CCDB Air used to wheeze and squelch – the internals were forked. After getting fixed at Sprung Suspension it doesn’t do it at all. Maybe the inline’s all sound like this but it doesn’t sound right to me.

To all asking if your cane creek shocks should be wheezing and squelching, no, no they should not. Mine was doing this, sent it for a service, internals basically replaced for new version and all is good again. It seems the earlier versions were/are a touch fragile, being polite about it…

Headtube decals – 2016 Black Ano.

Took the little accent off of the top of the ‘B’. Looked burnished underneath. Think I’ll leave the rest alone.

Took the little accent off of the top of the ‘B’. Looked burnished underneath. Think I’ll leave the rest alone.

Ah thats a shame! Maybe its something they changed recently.

Just got myself a raw finish 2017 Spitfire. It’s brilliant, even with my old Fox forks.

I’m trying to work out if the decals are above or below the clear coat. Ison say they’re under it, but looking at the frame I’m not so sure…. unless the clear coat is really thin

I’d be surprised if they were under it

Just given the bike a wash. There’s a definite difference in the surface feel between the decal and the frame which is quite obvious when it’s wet and you run your finger over it. The decals squeak!

Now Banshee themselves say the decals are under the clear coat..

The Raw frames have a clear coat which is applied last over the decals.

And in regards to applying helitape or similar

A protective layer is used by some on all frames, however it may be less important on the raw as it won’t show scratches like a painted frame will. You shouldn’t have any issues with decals peeling if you with to use such a product.

I think as it must be thin clear coat, hence the difference in feel between frame and decal

MOMO, nice set up on your spitfire! Just wondering what size width 27.5 maxxis minion you have on the back if you are using 26″ dropouts? cheers

I’ve got 26″ dropouts on mine too and have run 27.5×2.3 DHR2, Shorty and Minion SS (DHR2 is the default). There’s only one small rear triangle cross brace that is close-ish to the tyre, but that’s so small it doesn’t usually collect much mud or clog, plenty of space everywhere else. Had it with the shorter dropouts for a year and a bit, 27.5 ones before that.

So. A mate has a Rune, I have a Spitfire (both 2016MY).

The upper KS link on a Spitfire is stamped ‘S’ and the Rune ‘R’. Could a Rune top link be added to a Spitfire, along with a 216x63mm (or whatever it is) and make a 160mm Spitfire?

It’s a 2.4 wide trail DHR2 on there at the moment, it’s tight but I haven’t had any rub issues as yet

So, apparently my Prime frame is due to land this week, so I should get my sticky mitts on it by the end of next! I can’t wait!!

Has anyone has tried a 2.5″ or 2.6″ tyre in the rear of a 2017 frame running 27.5″ wheels?

The upper KS link on a Spitfire is stamped ‘S’ and the Rune ‘R’. Could a Rune top link be added to a Spitfire, along with a 216x63mm (or whatever it is) and make a 160mm Spitfire?

I highly doubt it – I wouldn’t be surprised if the lower link is the only common part (if indeed it is!)

There’s tons of space in the back of my 2014 frame with the standard dropouts, I’d be amazed if a 2.6″ tyre didn’t fit.

cracked my 2nd spitfire out here in Whis, so getting a rune as a crash replacement instead, think I need the burlier bike.

Winter is coming, added some protection to keep the worst of the crap out of the bearings.

I have pretty much the exact same thing in the back of mine, though I have the bottom bit on the inside of the chainstay cross brace. Keeps most of the crap out of the bearings and links as intended.

So realised with the extra stickers that came with the frame there was a black head badge, doh. Peeled off the chrome head badge and there is nothing behind it. Changed my fork decals to black heritage style and fitted an oval ring

It’s built!

Very nice but I think they’ve sold you a 29er instead! 😉

So my trusty Spitfire had its Pike and DBair serviced by TFTuned recently. Really impressed by their service – ridiculously quick turnaround, sent on the Wednesday, serviced on the Thursday, back on the Friday! Phoned me once to the discuss the fork requirements, again for shock stuff and finally to take payment. Detailed discussions about my wants/needs as a rider and about the condition of the items and what was needed.

I’d initially ordered a FAST damper to be fitted to the Pike but they were out of stock with no idea of when they might be back in. Part of the reason was wanting to get the damper tune better suited to the Luftkappe’s less regressive beginning stroke and more progressive end stroke. Anyway, they found that the Pike had a lot of binding/friction which was slowing its rebound, hence me having the rebound damper fully open. They changed the rebound shim stack to a lighter tune as I run relatively low psi and like it quite fast – not sure if it’s their own custom tune or one of the two alternate rebound stacks shown in the Pike service manual. They took it back out to 160 from 150mm too – I decided I wanted to run the longer fork softer so the sagged ride height is the same as with 150mm up front – swapping the Luftkappe over at the same time.

Anyway, whatever they’ve done it feels great! I’m running close to 25% sag on the fork with about 28% on the shock – it basically sits about level, just 40mm lower once sagged (most full-sus bikes sit deeper at the back, so everything gets slacker). Pre-Luftkappe more than 20% sag felt too divey and adding tokens only made it harsh deep in the travel. With the -2 deg headset it’s at 64.2 deg head angle in trail mode, 63.7 deg in uplift mode, 345 or 339mm static BB height.

The DBair needed a new piggyback due to scratches where the IFP runs and the anodising was (evenly) worn on the slidey air bits – didn’t need replacing now but probably before the next service was due, so it’s now full shiny stealth black.

Previously I’d been running the Cane Creek Spitfire base tune as it worked for averagely heavy, averagely fast me. Paul said he’d set it up his way for me based on my info and mentioned that his own bike has the same kinematics as a Spitfire (a Kingdom Ti thing) so he knew it well.

Once they were back I noticed about a third of the spokes in my rear wheel were completely loose – it’s been retensioned but there’s a big flat spot about 100mm long and 3mm deep. End of line Flow EX to be ordered – I have two matching wheelsets that swap between both bikes and I like these rims.

I’ve since had a few rides where I kept thinking the rear wheel had finally given up or I’d got a partly deflated tyre. Apart from the slightly ovality everything looks and feels solid – I’ve been stopping mid trail and pulling and poking at it!

Yesterday I realised what’s been going on – I’ve been hitting rough stuff and the back end just going soft and letting it pass in a really plush manner, hence that feeling of the back tyre being squishier than normal. And the new tune on the shock has a bit more low speed compression damping but a bit less high speed compression. So now we have a damping curve that goes more strongly regressive on sharp hits before the leverage curves ramps it up deeper in the travel. Firm when you pedal or pump, not super plush over tiny stuff but hit a mass of roots or (yesterday) a carpet of flints down the side of a field (a rare true XC outing!) it goes all magic carpet. Bloody brilliant!

It hasn’t been using any more travel when hucking off drops, still only going all the way at my biggest or most inept.

So there’s a top tip for Cane Creek’d Spitfire owners – try adding about 5 clicks of LSC and removing 0.5-1 turn of HSC. If it bottoms hard then increase the HSC a bit and/or add volume spacers.

As we know, the Spitfire has bottle cage mounts in a place so unsuited to the UK it’s not even funny. I hate riding with a pack, and the bum bag isn’t the best with >0.5kg water.

Bodged this together after seeing something similar on a mate’s Alpine 160. Modified brake mount with a hole drilled and tapped for an M5 bolt, and the two bolts used loctited in place at the right height to hold the Fabric bottle snug.

Tried it and it stayed on OK in Chopwell. I like.

Question for the folk with 2016 frames – is there a 26″-specific dropout available, or do you run the 27.5″ dropout for both wheel sizes?

I recently bought a frame that I was told would come with both types of dropout, now I’m being told they only come in one flavour.

Only one set of drop outs come with the frame – I specified when I ordered what size I want.

If you don’t find someone selling 2nd hand, you should be able to order through any shop that has an Ison account. They’re about £100 if I remember correctly.

Cheers Mark. I actually emailed Banshee and got this response:

You have a few options for 26” dropouts with the 2016 Spitfire depending on the hub standard you are using. It is a little confusing as the Prime/Phantom in 29” mode use the same dropouts as the Spitfire/Rune in 26” mode.
The following part numbers are the 26” options (all generation 1 26/29 “compact” dropouts.)

DF-V1135-269 (10 x135mm qr dropout)
DF-V1142-269 (12x142mm dropouts)
DF-V1150-269 (12x150mm dropouts)

There’s plenty of room in a compact dropout with a 27.5 running a Maxxis 2.3 DHR.
I’d only get the Long if you want to run a 2.5 or bigger.

Hi where does everyone get their spitty bearings from? I need to do mine. My last set were from katec (rip)

Last lot I got were from Simply Bearings – about £28 delivered for FAG and SKF.

As for dropouts, I have 3mm clearance using 26″ dropouts, 27.5″ Flow Mk3 and a DHR2 2.35″. I’ll happily buy some 27.5 dropouts if anyone has any or swap.

BETD for mine, had them all in stock. All my non driveside were fine so didn’t change them.

Finally jumped the shark & got some bigger wheels.

Really need the long dropouts though.

What shocks are people running, and how have you found any upgrades?

I’m thinking of swapping the CC inline for something with a piggyback

Spitfire under the Southern Lights.

Nice