Just as title really. Thanks for any help.

I think the 150mm / 26″ Pike is 532mm and the Revelation is 530mm or near enough as makes no difference, unless you’re comparing a straight steerer Revelation with a zero-stack lower cup with a tapered Pike, in which case you need to factor that in.

Thanks BWD – factor that in because the zero-stack tapered option would actually give a lower front end than the Rev?

Glad wl wrote the post as I plan to swap my Rev RCT3 (set at 140 right now) for a Pike 150 on my Blur TRC.

Anyone that knows if it´s easier to run the Pike with a little more sag in order to lower AC?
When I try this on my dual air Rev it doesn´t work so well as I tend to bottom out easily.

And what do the different Pike models actually mean? There’s £200 difference between the RC and the RCT3. Ta v much.

Thanks BWD – factor that in because the zero-stack tapered option would actually give a lower front end than the Rev?

If you run a zero stack lower headset cup – if you have a tapered or 1.5 or 44mm headtube, it lowers the front end slightly, so if you go from that to an external cup, which you have to with a tapered steerer then the fork will effectively be around 10mm or whatever taller even though technically the AC is the same. If you’re already using an external cup lower headset, it shouldn’t be a factor.

Anyone that knows if it´s easier to run the Pike with a little more sag in order to lower AC?
When I try this on my dual air Rev it doesn´t work so well as I tend to bottom out easily.

I did just that on my mutant Ragley Ti – you can add an extra bottomless token or two which means the travel ramps up so you’re less likely to bottom out even with reduced pressures. So yes, basically you can do that. Or you can modify the air shaft to lower the fork by, say, 10mm if that makes sense.

Thanks again. Pretty certain I’m currently running a tapered steerer in a zero-stack lower on a tapered head tube, so I should just be able to switch, I think, in which case the change in front-end height will be negligible.

Thanks BWD, I suppose the lowering of the airshaft is about grinding/milling away some material from the airshaft .

You might be able to use an alternative air shaft from RS depending on which fork/travel you have, but basically yes. There’s a good blog article on it somewhere, erm… this.

If you had a 26″ 160mm you could simply fit a 150mm air shaft. Or you could cut down the existing one by 10mm. You might also have to rethread the inner bore where the bolt at the bottom of the fork leg locates.

just for info,
from experience today, there is about 20mm of thread, and you only need 10mm for the bolt.
So its ‘ok’ to cut 10mm off without the need to rethread 🙂

All you need is a pipe cutter and some patience to alter the travel of the pike.

160>150 – Enough thread
160>140 – I needed a tap to eek out a couple more threads.

As long as the end of the shaft is square/flat and you dont mark the air shaft on any part the goes past a seal, you’re golden.

PS, running more sag would be plain wrong