Following on from the HDMI thread, can anyone explain the theory behind “upgrading” a mains cable for a hifi?

Even if changing power cable for something that had “better” conductivity could improve the performance of an amplifier, surely you would have to rewire your house and possibly the connection to the sub station?

Is there anyone on here willing to make an argument that a power cable can make a difference? Has anyone actually spent good money on power cable? Does anyone actually think it does make a difference?

I run my shit off a massive bank of lead:acid cells under the house

Recently, doubt has been cast over my hifi feng shui – I aligned it according to the direction the plates point in but some say it’s the direction of travel of the electrons that matters 🙁

Is there any point Winston? Sounds like you’re spoiling for an argument.

Reads like you are offering one 😉

fool and their money

See kashima coating and various other MTB upgrades

I can hear a difference between the cables I have.

I don’t care if anybody else can’t.

i tried cleaning the terminals on a plug with brasso once.
not sure i could really tell any difference if im honest.
i reckon there is an argument to be said for many upgrades, although it may be slight.
every component in a system degrades the quality of sound to a certain degree (compared to hearing the instrument played live)
however, amplifier A *might* degrade the sound a little less than amplifier B.
this would apply to every component in a hifi system.
my personal opinion= every hifi can be upgraded in about 20 minutes to sound 100% better with the application of a nice bottle of *insert your choice of alcohol here*

A friend of mine has about £20k of Naim kit, which sounds very nice. Another friend of his came round one evening with a different mains lead to try. I laughed At first, but the difference was astonishing.

geetee, I’m not looking for an argument, I am just a bit curious. Hoping to hear a few different viewpoints.

I have fairly decent hifi, Roksan processor/pre amp and Roksan power amp, tend to use a CA Dacmagic to play WMA/FLAC files.

I use mix of cables, nothing stupidly expensive but I do have Linn interconnects which came with a s/h Linn system I have since sold, I can’t say I noticed any differences between cables. I do use spade connectors on my speaker wire as I think that a good “clean” connection is important.

I do believe that some things that many would consider snake oil make quite a difference, e.g. equipment stands – I had my first hifi on a cheap Ikea pine TV stand under the TV, I was re arranging the room and put the separates on the laminate floor, it made a huge difference, so I bought a decent stand.

At the moment my system is run from 1 socket and extension leads, I am thinking about adding extra sockets to the room as part of the house refurb. If I do I was considering making up some decent quality power cables, nothing stupid just about £15 – £20 a cable.

Any “analogue” signal components and interconnects are going to influence the sound quality/fidelity (a change of impedance changes the frequency response). BUT, mains cables, the bit that just supplies a 50Hz 240v sinusoidal voltage to the amplifiers power filters, er, no.

If you wanted to improve the DC link ripple, you’d be better off delivering your own DC link from a battery system, or generating your own clean AC source.

A £20k amplifer is going to have such a good filtered front end to the power stage that no difference in mains lead impedance will make any difference to the DC link ripple. Large inductors and capacitors for filtering the dc link are expensive, and hence usually for a budget system this is where compromises are made

OP – Could you stretch to £25?

http://www.mains-cables-r-us.co.uk/mains-cables-/529-mcru-diy-mains-lead-set.html

the equivalent of :

floating rotors
braided hoses
extra wide bars
tyres with more than one compound in them
etc etc etc

I guess

Made especially for a man with too much money and not enough sense.

FairPlay Winston. Apologies for getting the wrong end of the stick.

Given that the power coming into the unit is eventually going to be, at least in a round about way, the sound that you listen to, then the quality of the power in has the potential to impact on the overall, discernible sound quality.

However, it’s unlikely that anything that can be done in a power cable alone over and above a slightly nicer oxygen free, thick copper cable, ferrite beads etc. which would cost at the outside £15 – if you want to improve the power supply, then there are ways of re-constituting a cleaner sine waveform which are much more worthwhile than investing a grand in a power cable – personally, I’d not bother with either, it’s going to greater lengths than you will see in recording studios, and as such all you will do is make the noise which is inherent in the recording more audible.

I’m intrigued as to how a nice, pure power lead can make any difference when it’s connected to a filthy, creaking national grid.

I’m also intrigued as to whether those that hear a difference between such things do so under a double blind test..?

The theory is that they filter out the crap that the grid puts onto it.

Like a Britta filter on a tap?

The theory is that they filter out the crap that the grid puts onto it.

Being a slightly naive cynical electronics engineer, I’d have thought introducing a filter with a suitably defined passband, roll-off and ideally near constant group delay would be a better bet than a slightly more shiny bit of copper mains cable.
Having said that, even doing all that would all seem like wasted bollocks prior to having a DC power rail.

Hmm a mains conditioner containing the relevant inductors etc I could see providing some benefit. However a passive cable on its own isn’t going to filter anything!

Yes Ian! Yes yes yes! I studied electronics years ago (as part of my audio technology degree) and am frankly getting flipped off by some Flippety hifi types and their erm.. Misunderstanding 🙂

The theory is that they filter out the crap that the grid puts onto it.

I thought it wasn’t the grid that it was trying to filter – but your domestic stuff like fridges.

That is why some people use separate rings for their hifi.

The power supply of a good amp should filter this out stuff anyway…

I have a MOD power supply filter at home, although I have never yet used it. Blinkin heavy block of a thing.

It is supposed to filter out stuff well – including the EMP that might result from a nuke – at least my hifi will be safe 🙂

Yes Ian! Yes yes yes! I studied electronics years ago (as part of my audio technology degree) and am frankly getting flipped off by some Flippety hifi types and their erm.. Misunderstanding

Indeed!
If you’re the sort of person who impressed to find out that your bike is made of ‘aerospace grade’ aluminium, then audiophilia is for you 😀

Yes Ian! Yes yes yes!

😯
when was the last time you heard that, Mr Munro ? 😉

The best explanation that I’ve heard for alot of this Hi Fi “Voodoo”, (and bike voodoo) is that as humans we are basically bored.

Our brains crave the new

So when you swap leads the sound changes and this sound is now new and your brain prefers it. (For lead you can of course insert damping, wheel size, no. of gears lens etc.)

Of course this won’t work if its actually worse and new

I’d love to try a double blind test on a mains lead. All I can think is you’d want one with good shielding, but that doesn’t seem to be on offer

when was the last time you heard that, Mr Munro ?

*puts down sandwich*

prawn mayonnaise ?

I don’t know about mains cables, but last time I actively tried, I could hear the difference between speaker cables:
In order of brightness: Mains twin & earth, Mission Solid Core, Naim NAC-A4.

Not a blind test though as I changed the cables myself!

I’ve proposed a wager of £50.00 several times before on STW that I could still tell the difference between twin & earth & Naim cable.
Using my system and room, obviously.
No one took me up on it.

I’ve not tried it for ages, tbh, but I’ll try it again sometime and if I can still tell the difference I’ll happily do a blind test.
Wager to be arranged.
Be interesting to see if my ears are still up to it or not.

Speaker cable is a distraction here. I mean the signal actually goes through that doesn’t it

Also tell the difference is not the same as one being “better” than the other

i have certainly heard a difference between interconnects (free to £20 quid and £50 to free)

But again a signal goes through the interconnect

But the mains lead?!!!

when was the last time you heard that, Mr Munro ?

😀 😀 😀

Are they not just to help eliminate ground loop induced hum?

http://www.soundonsound.com/sos/1994_articles/aug94/groundloops.html

Assuming that your expensive mains cable is the single most perfect cable in existence, that last two feet is going to make fig all difference when you’ve still got the rest of your house ring main and the national grid backhaul behind it.

If it’s claiming to be some sort of filtering system, be that a passive choke or some sort of active processing, that might be different; but then, what’s it going to be doing that your supposedly ‘hifi’ amp’s PSU isn’t doing already?

If mains noise is actually an issue, your money would be better spent on a UPS that can provide nice clean inverted DC power completely isolated from the mains feed. And that’s a big ‘if’.

In order of brightness: Mains twin & earth, Mission Solid Core, Naim NAC-A4.

Out of interest what are the SI units of Brightness? Sunbeams per a second? Sorry! 😀 (that’s a genuine sorry, I’m not intending to get at anyone), but presumably this could be measured with a brightness meter?

I could hear the difference between speaker cables:

Once you get beyond ‘sufficient’ grade, ie not crappy CAT2 bell wire, it shouldn’t make much difference, outside interference notwithstanding. (Why isn’t speaker cable shielded? There’s an untapped market.) There’s an adage that one of the best cables you can use for speakers is mains cable.

Analogue interconnects are a different matter. Cable quality makes a massive difference.

Digital interconnects are a different matter again. Is the signal intact [yes|no]?

The SI unit for brightness in musical terms would be measured by how loud the treble part of the audio frequency was relative to the rest of the spectrum. It’s perfectly measurable.

And why do people think that just because a signal is digital its therefore infallible.

Your amplifer generates a + and – DC link, that is low pass filtered from the mains supply. Now the mains supply is ~50Hz, so that lo wpass filter must be suitably, er low, to turn 50Hz into DC (with a small amount of ripple). Hence, any “noise” on the mains cable which is higher than 50Hz (and there will be quite a bit in the average house with allsorts of appliances running in parallel) will also be filtered out, and the higher frequency it is, the more it will be attenuated. Any noise somewhat below 50Hz (lets say 10Hz for the sake of argument) that does get through the power filtering will indeed introduce a smaller (by the step down ratio at that moment in time in the main power stage transistors) 10Hz hum on the speaker outputs. No the question becomes, can you hear a 10Hz hum that could easily be only 5% of the output amplitude? On the typical household stereo, er, no you can’t.

So, what sort of “super high quality” mains cable is going to help to remove say a 10Hz ripple? Well, it ain’t gonna look like a normal mains cable that is for certain (hint, google: inductor size vs frequency for the answer!)

IanMunro – Member

Out of interest what are the SI units of Brightness? Sunbeams per a second? Sorry! (that’s a genuine sorry, I’m not intending to get at anyone), but presumably this could be measured with a brightness meter?

I find it very difficult to believe you’ve never heard anyone refer to ‘brighter’ or ‘darker’ in relation to tone or timbre before, what with it being a universal concept.

So yes, you obviously are intending to ‘get at’ someone.

Shame, I was enjoying that.

And why do people think that just because a signal is digital its therefore infallible.

I didn’t say it was infallible. I said it was either intact or it wasn’t, which it is. It’s perfectly possible for it to degrade, but you’d know about it sharpish if it did.

If mains noise is actually an issue, your money would be better spent on a UPS that can provide nice clean inverted DC power completely isolated from the mains feed. And that’s a big ‘if’.

Trouble is a UPS can’t normally supply the current your power amps might want, but cool for other stuff.

I’ll wager that’s not true; I can check the output of one next time I’m in one of our data centres if you like. (-:

I didn’t say it was infallible. I said it was either intact or it wasn’t, which it is. It’s perfectly possible for it to degrade, but you’d know about it sharpish if it did.

Good glad that’s sorted out.