Viewing 13 posts - 1 through 13 (of 13 total)
  • Attaching stuff to a tanked wall room.. how?
  • robdob
    Free Member

    Staying in someones house at the moment and they have a utility room which is tanked. I want to decorate it before they get back from their hols but I need to put skirting boards on and maybe attach something to the wall to support a piece of worktop.

    Would Gripfill/No nails be enough to attach the skirting? Any particular one I should use? I used No Nails before and it seems quite brittle if knocked and cracks, need something more flexible.

    And would it be enough to attach batons to support a worktop?

    petrieboy
    Full Member

    Any time I’ve done skirtings I’ve used gripfill only to fix. Never had any problems

    sandwicheater
    Full Member

    ^^^ That’s what we did.

    We did have a tricky corner and used short rawl plug and screw but no deeper than the plaster board to not to damage the tanking.

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    nickewen
    Free Member

    If you’re using grip fill get the green one not the yellow one. Nastier to work with but stronger! I had some skirting come off the wall using just the yellow stuff… Moved to green and plugs/screws after that.

    perchypanther
    Free Member

    This’ll do ya! Does exactly what it says on the tin….

    40mpg
    Full Member

    Gripfill will only be as strong as the substrate – so if you stick it to a painted surface, it will just pull off with the paint. Plastered surfaces are better, but beware a skim coat on plasterboard as that could pull off too.

    Do you know what sort of tanking system was used? External or internal to the basement wall? If external, then you should be able to plug and screw directly to the wall, but don’t get this wrong as you’ll spring a leak!

    Gripfill for teh worktop could be trickier. Depends how many sides you are supporting. Best bet would be to form a ‘table’ structure with four batten legs if possible, so the gripfill is only holding the worktop against the wall rather than supporting any weight.

    *edit – make sure you prime the skirting both sides. Basements always get damp, as much from lower ventilation as leaks. If your skirting gets damp it will expand, bow and pop off the wall. Priminmg all round will reduce the likelihood of this (particularly cut edges). Also use softwood rather than mdf if you can as mdf is more prone to water expansion.

    robdob
    Free Member

    The walls appear to be hollow so I assume plasterboard with a skim on top. I don’t think any particular “system” was used as such as only part of the room is semi underground.

    It is bare plaster as the moment so I assume if I put the skirting on first on the bare plaster that would be better.

    I like the idea of putting the worktop supports on legs which are also attached to the wall, that’s a great solution.

    Any bright ideas on how to brace the skirting against the wall while the adhesive dries?

    mark90
    Free Member

    Clamps that can also be used as spreaders by swapping the end piece over, and some blocks of wood

    http://www.screwfix.com/p/forge-steel-spreader-clamp-18/1834d

    richc
    Free Member

    Don’t bodge it with gripfill Use these https://www.permagard.co.uk/p-seal-quick-plugs.html

    robdob
    Free Member

    I’m not drilling any holes in the wall I’m afraid.

    timba
    Free Member

    Sumogrip is good. Adhesive and gap filler in one. It’s white so good for overpainting, fungicidal and works under water (just sayin’ 🙂 )

    matt_outandabout
    Full Member

    The worktop – just get a self supporting unit.

    robdob
    Free Member

    Used gripfill in the end, worked really well.

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