I’m about to treat some oak veneer internal doors and apparently this is the stuff to get. Anyone used it? Is it easy to get a good finish?

Also I don’t know whether to get the natural transparent raw finish or the clear matt. Any recommendation either way?

Poly x hard wax oil is ace. I use the Matt on my oak staircase and as and when I have some do another oak door.

Amazingly tough on the stairs. Wonderfully neutral on the wood. Top stuff, as recommended by diminutive oirish skydiving floor layers from this parish.

Used it on my oa porch installation, bloody expensive but very good…

J.

Used Osmo Polyx oil on a floor – really good and hard wearing. I applied a second coat this year – two years after the original just to bring it back up.

They recommend using their own brush (or roller) which I think I did first time round, but this time I just used a 2″ good quality paint brush and it went on fine, good finish, no runs or patches.

Its fantastic stuff, just coated 8 oak doors with it.
Dead easy to apply and gives a great finish
Brush on one thin coat with the grain do the whole door, then rub it in with a nonn lint cloth, last stroke with the grain.
Let it dry.
Fine rub with a scotch pad or fine paper, then another thin coat as before
I used Polyx-oil 3032 Satin Clear
It doent build up like a paint so never flakes or peels, if another coat is every needed a quick rub with a scotch pad is all you need, no messy sanding
Cheapest place i found as i have no local stockist was

http://www.wood-finishes-direct.com
http://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/product/osmo-polyx-oil
365 five star reviews !!

Now then… I love osmo on solid wood, but I to wanted to use it on my veneer doors…however it seems the advice is that the oil may make the veneer separate. So I didn’t use it.

Read the door instructions I’d say..

Wickes by any chance?

DrP

If Stoner can get a good finish with it, that tells you how easy it is to apply. However, DrP has a point. By “veneer”, how thick a veneer do you mean? If it’s an engineered door, there will be a fairly thick layer of oak on it. If it’s a very thin veneer, oiling might be a risk.

Mmm I’ve done walnut worktops but not veneer . Could be an expensive mistake .

They are engineered oak doors. No expert but that is what the spec says so I should be OK.

http://www.xljoinery.co.uk/detail.php?id=3976&tc=2

qwertyuiop7 – How much did you use to finish 8 doors? I’ve got 12 to do.

I reckon a 2.5 litre tin would be more than enough. For best finish, you should sand to at least 120g, no finer than 150g. Make sure any scratches against the grain are sanded out – they will show up even more once you apply the oil. Use synthetic bristle brushes or mohair (synthetic is fine) mini-roller. Buy one of those rolls of stockinette to rag off the excess, and help you get it into the corners. It’s only a door so you don’t need a thick coat. Don’t forget to oil the tops and bottoms of the doors too. 🙂 Personally, I don’t think it needs knocking back between coats, especially on doors, but you can if you want.

EDIT: make sure you give the can a good shake as solids can settle at the bottom. When it says “apply thinly” on the lid, it really means “apply thinly” – it’s a high solids oil so will take ages to dry if you slap it on thick. Satin is not really as satin as you think – it’s the same code as the old “satin-matt”. The new semi-matt is quite nice though.

Used it several times on tables and food prep surfaces and I’ve had good success just applying a couple of coats with a clean rag.

I found using a brush I got a very thick layer which wasn’t good, but maybe I’m doing it wrong

Had really good results with the osmo ‘tints’ stain stuff too

Just done 40 odd doors in a development with it. Let’s hope these are OK 80 These were howarth timber “oak” doors and look very good for it.

🙂

I became very risk adverse when it came to my doors.. My thread.

As it stands, I chickened out and used another varnish. However, I didn’t like the look so replaced 3 doors (pricey error) and have now used ronseal quick dry matte varnish – family members have got good results from it.
That’s VERY watery, but really doesn’t alter the appearance of the door much – we really like the ‘limed oak’ look i.e really pale. The previous varnish I used DID look nice, but it wan’t to our taste!

Good luck!

DrP

I used external Osmo UV Protection Extra on the doors and window frames of our summer house and Osmo Polyx Tints on the interior. It’s great stuff, I wish I’d gone Osmo all over rather than the super draggy, slow to apply Little Greene paint that Mrs BG specified but at least I got to hum Jam tunes all Summer as I painted.

Hardwearing – but does leave the wood looking a little dull/iifeless

So I was all set to order a 2.5L can of Osmo and then I get a recommendation from the in laws that their joiner used Fiddes oil. Anybody had experience of this or both. It’s about £10 cheaper and has similarly rave reviews. Flipping choice!

Fiddes is fine. It’s much lower solids content than OS Polyx. Dries faster and I reckon, colours the oak a shade or so darker…but not that noticeable to someone who’s not doing this stuff all the time. It’s a door so, y’know, it probably doesn’t need as much solids content as a floor so it’ll be fine. It’s a tenner cheaper a can for a reason, but it’s still easy to apply.

Cheers, helpful advice.