Wookster, always looking at improvements…

One thing settled is the geometry of the Mojo G16.

I should say basic geometry, Always room for tweaks to allow adaption to component configs.

PSA;

Geometron bikes is replacing the demo fleet..

Used, well maintained frames/bikes with 4 year warranty on Frame.

info@geometronbikes.co.uk or call 01600 887550

G13s, G16s and G19s

Give the guys a follow on instagram/facebook too.. geometronbikes, mojorisin66 on instagram and geometron bikes and Mojo Rising on FB

Just finished building up my G13, taken a while but I know it’ll be worth it.

Frame / Geometron G13 (Longer)
Shock / Fox Float CTD (custom 185mm length)
Fork / Fox 34 Performance Elite, 140mm travel
Drivetrain / SRAM GX Eagle
Brakes / SRAM Code RSC, 200mm rotors
Wheels / RSP Chosen hubs, Alex Volar rims
Tyres / Specialized Hillbilly/Butcher Grid 2.35”
Bar / Truvativ Descendant 800mm
Stem / Truvativ Descendant 40mm
Grips / DMR Deathgrips (Thin/Soft compound)
Headset / Superstar Components Slackset (-2º)
Seatpost / RockShox Reverb, 170mm drop
Saddle / Fabric Line

And yes, I know about the tyre logo positioning – the wheels came with them fitted like that and I just want to get out and ride it rather than faff!

Tasteful! Very nice looking.

tis lovely..

Hi all,anyone care to share there fork and shock settings,I’m curious to see if I can liven mine up a touch,it’s a first generation geometron with x2 and fox 36rc2,just feels a touch flat and I only had suspension serviced a couple of months ago,cheers

Very cool Sim!

Maca

Base settings

Fork 180mm travel no neg bump stop, 2 x blue spacers
Pressure to suit but 20-25% sag
HSC 22, LSC 22 (fully off!) rebound 13

Shock max spacers pressure to suit 20-25% sag

HSC22 LSC22
HSR17 LSR 3

If you can’t get what you need from it have a chat with Paul to talk options.

Thanks chainline,will try those out

Hey guys! Happy new year!

This might not be the right thread but I’ve got some questions regarding my Nicolai GPI Pinion Gates Carbon drive.

Crazy idea, but was wondering if it’s possible to convert the pinion on the GPI to use a chain as compared to the gates belt.

Am just curious to see if it’s more efficient to pedal using the chain or the belt.

Thanks in advance!

Crazy idea, but was wondering if it’s possible to convert the pinion on the GPI to use a chain as compared to the gates belt.

I hope it’s not crazy, I may well covert mine to chain when the belt etc wears out. As far as I can see the Pinion chain tensioner should bolt on in place of the belt tensioner. You’d need to get sprockets that are similar size to the Gates sprockets (diameter, not number of teeth) so the chain doesn’t saw through the swing arm or mess with pedalling. Can’t see why it wouldn’t work fine. You should check with Nicolai before spending any money though

A not very good picture from yesterday of mine. Will try to get a better photo on another ride. Loving it at the moment, largely just feels normal, but is harder to manual and wheelie than my last bike (a Lapierre Spicy). Still only three rides in though so will reserve judgement until I’ve had more time on it.

It’s a 2015/16 long and I’m 5’9″.

[url=https://flic.kr/p/F9b9Nu]20180107_150035[/url] by eddkh, on Flickr

Any recommendations for rear shock settings on a G16 with CCDB Air CS?

Only Ion 16 settings on the Cane Creek website, not sure if the suspension curve is the same

Rik, different suspension curve entirely so different settings. Unfortunately I’ve no idea. Perhaps give Paul a call?

Hello guys,
I have a 2016 model G16, so the non-boost model where the rear pivot runs on a bushing rather than a bearing.

Could anyone please confirm the following:

a) How I remove these bushings (simply with force? Or is there a recommended method)
b) Where I can find replacements from/what size these are.

I had some awful creaking issues a few months back, so I’m giving it all an overhaul and thought it best to replace them.

Cheers,
Craig

It is unlikely it is from the rear bush as they barely move but is possible.

You should ideally press them out. There is a tool you use to press them out. I had some made ages ago. You can ‘tap’ them out if careful but it’s not the official method!

It does mean removing the rear swing arm if you press them out/in with a vice. Might be possible with a beefy G Clamp, I’ve never tried that one.

GeoMetron bikes will be able to supply replacements.

I might have some new ones in my toolbox. I’ll check.

Just seen the slight price rise in the frames. Fair enough as the prices have been static for a good while. On the other hand it’s a few more months saving added to the time line!

Still time to get fit and thin enough to really enjoy it I suppose!! 😆

Wookster, the Euro and production costs have finally hit I’m afraid, but I think it’s still good value for a premium product.

Agreed mate no problem with it! Just puts the “push the button” date back a few months!!! 😉

Hi got a few build questions for those of you in the know,

Is anyone running SRAM shifters mech etc on the Geometron? I understand that Chris Porter prefers Shimano stuff as you can turn the mech off.

Also I’m sure I read somewhere that the bike was designed to run a 32 tooth front ring as a minimum? Is that right, or am I having a moment? Cheers!

Hi

I moved my build kit over from my previous bike onto a g13.

Gx mech/shifter/10-42 cassette, xt800 boost cranks with a 30 tooth chairing.

All works brilliant for me.

Also I’m sure I read somewhere that the bike was designed to run a 32 tooth front ring as a minimum? Is that right, or am I having a moment? Cheers!

I’m running a 28t ring, works for me (2015/16 G16).

Great thanks all, current have a 30 front ring and an 10-42 cassette and really like the set up, so that’s a positive!!

The G16 is designed around a 30-34t ring. The change is in the antisquat/feedback level.

Use what works is the key but its all front/rear gear relative so not as simple as just the front ring.

I have used Sram on GeoMetron, all works not problem, lots of examples out there.

Chris does prefer to run without a clutch. I do too, but not using the clutch wore out my xtr cage pivot in the end!

You can turn off the the Sram clutch with a manual hack if you want.

The suspension does work noticeably better but whether that is quantifiably better or if it matters at all to us mortals without a bar mounted stopwatch is much more debate-able..

For me the difference is very marginal with the clutch on or off. I mainly notice that my Shimano gears change more smoothly without the clutch but the racket it makes Downhill is horrendous. It feels like the mech will tear itself apart and both times I wrecked a rear mech recently the clutch was off and the mech wrapped itself around the spokes. I have found the best compromise is clutch on but wound off to the lightest setting.

Can anyone advise me on shock mount hardware?
I’ve just spoken to Mojo and they’ve confirmed that the front mount is 22.2 M8 and the rear is 21.84 M8.

I’m running a Rockshox Monarch and I cannot for the life of me find a Rockshox 21.84 mount. I also can’t distinguish between the front and rear mounts that I’ve taken off the bike – when set on a flat table, they’ve totally flush with one another (supplied as stock from Nicolai). Is it possible that they sent the bike out with 22.2mm mounts front and back?

Do 21.84 Rockshox mounts even exist?

Thanks as always.

Nicolai have details here

http://www.nicolai-bicycles.com/shop/techsheet

Which suggests 22.2 front and rear for the ones I checked.

Sorry I should have clarified – I did check the tech sheets etc. but had been given conflicting information from different sources.

Mojo said 22.2 / 21.84 and then Nicolai got back to me and said both mounts were the same and either 22.0 or 22.2 (they weren’t sure as they changed the specs at some point and couldn’t tell which would apply to my frame!) Obviously this was less than ideal…

Anyhow, I ordered x2 22.0 and as far as I can tell (flush on a table with original hardware etc.), that fits fine.

Just wondered if any of you guys had similar experiences/could shed more light on the situation. My frame is a 2016 G16 bought direct from Nicolai.

I think this has caused a little consternation in MojoR/Geometron bikes! Mine is two different sizes.

I think this has caused a little consternation in MojoR/Geometron bikes! Mine is two different sizes.

I think this has caused a little consternation in MojoR/Geometron bikes! Mine is two different sizes.

If anyone is interested……

My G13 in Longer is going to be up for sale soon as a rolling chassis.

Get in touch if you’re interested . Going to miss it but i change my bike every year and only have room for one mtb at a time so it must go!

Webbe, the bushings at the rear of the chain stays almost never wear out. They do however have the older bushing system that Nicolai used to use throughout on previous models. There is a grub screw and a bushing cap so you can actually adjust as the bushing slightly wears so:loosen the grub screw then tighten the bushing cap bolt (roughly finger tight) then snug up the grub screw and that will remove any creaking/play in that area. That said, creaking is rare on a Nicolai my first suspect for that would be fox shock bushings. If you do feel the need to remove the bushings on the chainstay I strongly recommend buying the specialist drift from Nicolai. I went the whole hog and bought the bearing removal tool which makes bearing replacement a doddle. I think Geometron bikes probably sell these too.

Rolls-Royce, what are you getting in place of the G13?

My creak was a loose Cinch chairing. Drove me mad… seems obvious now

I’ve just picked up a used Nicolai frame in the raw finish. Does anyone have any tips on looking after it?

Do you mean in terms of looking after the raw aluminium? Mine’s a raw finish and I’m not aware of anything, I suppose you could give it a polish but that’s only cosmetic. The aluminium seems to be buffed to look slightly dull anyway so never going to come up that shiney

Question about my geometron…

Thought id hijack this thread for this one…

I have a geometron longer running 180 lyrik forks, with a 222mm x2 rear shoc, 27in wheels. Im led to believe this means i have 175mm rear wheel travel. The flip chip is in the less slack position and the previous owner of the frame told me i had to leave it like this if im using the longer shock.

Today i depressurised the shock to put volume spacers in…with the shock fully compressed i noticed that the rear wheel is a long way from contacting the seat tube and i cant see any other obvious problems from the rear end compressing a bit further.

What is the reason for not flipping the chip over to super slack mode? Peddle strikes? somethong else?