M4k1 apologies, been away but as others have mentioned at 183cm I’d be going 520mm reach now as you can always bring it back with set up if too long but more difficult the other way around. That in the absence of testing for yourself as everyone has personal tastes.
The ST is lower now at 460mm as mentioned so much easier to manage.
Long term feedback – Still loving my Geometron Longest – and now it’s even longer
I’m 6′ 2.5″ riding the Longest.
A year in and I am still loving the Geometron, I must say never had a real long lasting affair with a bike before. The grass has always been greener. it’s not now. I did think I was happy with my Nicolai AM – until I rode one of these, IT FITS!
A couple of weeks ago I built up a new black frame with a -1 head cup from Works plus the longer travel rear end same as the_pilot. 5mm longer stays and a bigger shock this time with the Float compression lever for climbing.
I wouldn’t say the lever is necessary but it certainly feels just a touch more direct when pedalling smooth fire roads uphill. The shock still has all the standard adjustments and range so there is nothing about the lever to not like. As long as I remember to switch climb mode off before I hit the gnar, that is.
It didn’t take me long to get used to riding the Geometron on my local trails last year and, even though they are tight, tree lined, and pretty flat the Geometron handles them with ease. Including the steep climbs where it’s traction is amazing. Got to say it’s the funnest bike I’ve ridden there and my XC FS 100m 29er has been hanging up since I first threw a leg over the Geometron last August..
So if you’re thinking of it, don’t hold back, I thought long and hard and for sure I made the right choice.
I have a Longest 155mm frame out of the first batch and an L G13, I’m 190cm tall. There is no reason why you have to go for the longest frame possible or run a low front end.
looking peoples thoughts I’m going to order a custom large geometron 29er should I go for 63 degree HA or 64? Will be my only bike so will want to for everything from flowy trails to uplift days. Would there be a big difference in feel between 63 and 64HA.
The drawings I have been send out seem to based on the G13 but with a lowered top tube and seat tube, reach is 490mm and seat tube angle is slightly steeper at 77.7 to allow 157mm rear travel. Going for a 160mm 36 and X2. Always have preferred 29ers but never tried anything as slack, but from what I can gather from this forum and reading about people putting anglesets to slacken their pole evolink 140 64.5HA I’m inclined to go for 63HA. I just don’t want to end up with something that I cannt get turned.
Here’s another idea which I’ve been thinking about for a while. Lower c.o.g. Is better as it improves stability right? And currently limited in part by pedal strike? So shorter cranks, which appear to be accepted by those th at have tried them (including me) mean you can drop the bb without lowering the pedals. Would make no difference if you had your outside foot down, but with pedals flat you could have a 10mm lower bb if going from 175 to 165 cranks. Unfortunately I’ve already offset bush my bike so cannot drop mine any more….
thepodge – exactly. Slighlty off topic but ive got a Murmur on order and am going with 64.5 HA and similar geo to a L G13. I figure with a -2 degree works HS I can get a 62.5 HA which should be plenty slack for a 29er.
Bestie13 Below 63 HA on the the 29er, as you may have gathered, will speed up the steering not slow it down, straight line stability will be even greater (tho you may not perceive it) but the added flop factor will make initiation into the turn faster. You won’t regret a 63 HA I’m sure
Captaindanger, there is a limit on the 29er based on our experience whereby it becomes harder to initiate fast side to side turns as the BB drop increases, coupled with rotational intertia means you have to be more aggressive. We asked for the BB to be a bit higher on the 29, nothing to do with travel.
It is one of the reasons the 29 front with the 27.5 rear works so well. What would be nice is for FOX to make a 40 lower that is more 29 compatible. Currently there is only 3 mm of clearance…Lots of current interest in a 29 front in WCDH so it may happen.
In the meantime it is possible to run the Geometron with a 29 front with the 160mm 36, the e-bike fork adds a bit of stiffness, not possible to give it quite the feeling of the 27.5 version of the fork due to the reduced capability to tune the neg chamber. OR of course have slim clearance with the 40.
I should get the G13 this week and will be dropping the front to 62 HA so if anyone sees me out on it feel free to collar me and grab a ride. It’ll be a DPS version mind…until Fox bring out the 190mm X2 anyway…
One question 490mm reach with a 77.7 SA on a Large? do you mean a medium. I’d expect the 664mm ETT version to have almost the same as the GeoMetron Large/Longest with the 77.7 SA as the slacker seat angle std bike has 510mm. M/Long would be about 490mm reach.
Hi Chainline I gave the go ahead yesterday for the 63HA and I am glad to hear that you think it should handle well and will be interested to hear how you get on with the 62HA G13. I seem to have confused myself with the sizing terms and I meant Long not Large. I had inquired with Paul at Mojo whether it would be worth having the climb switch fitted to the 222x70mm X2 shock as I have a fair lot of fire road climbs to do. He was of the opinion that the anti-squat is really well dialled and effective enough that is wouldn’t be necessary. Have you any thought on this and would a larger/smaller chainring effect the anti-squat, on my current stumpjumper 29er I have a 30 chainring 42 cassette which can get a bit tight at times I am considering whether to go for an eagle set up if funds allow.
bestie, anti squat is dialled. No need for the climb switch in my opinion. Designed around 30-32 for the 29. The chainring will change that, smaller adding anti squat iirc so if you changed to a smaller front you would get better pedalling with a tradeoff of slightly more descending pedal feedback.
I got the climb switch added after taking a hammering on some very long climbs in the Alps on dual-plys. At home I only really use it for very long steady climbs and I do plenty of rides where I never touch it.
I think it also depends on your pedalling style and chainring. You can of course take the allen key out of your pocket and increase compression if you know you’re gonna be pedalling for an hour and a half. Switch easier if that suits.
Chainline, from reading what Bestie has on order, Mojo will build a longer travel 29er than what’s on the web site? I thought he G13 was fixed at 130mm of travel?
Wookster, the G13 as a stock bike is fixed at 133mm but you can order custom. I’ve suggested changing it so it is like the G16 with say 130mm and 150mm options via shock length change, amongst a few other changes (have a look at the mtbr thread in the Niclai forum I post on (the_pilot)
The original GeoMetron 29 is available as a custom order which is effectively a 155mm travel, 29er version of the G16 with the updates or anything you like as a custom order like Paul’s which just had a longer shock length to allow an X2.
I know what I would do with the G13 right now. I think an official 29/27.5 may happen too in the future, especially with a bit more work on the 29 36 fork (probably the e bike version) but for me, for now I need time with the 29 front in mine first before I decide if that works for me, I’m such a fan of the 27.5 at the moment. CP seems convinced by a 29 front in a std G16 and the current G16 doesn’t need much changing to incorporate it seamlessly. Again such a beast is available as a full custom but for anyone thinking of it I suggest trying the current GeoMetron with one in and tweaked to suit before jumping in.
I’m excited about a proper kids/small persons version, writing up numbers now…
anyway
My chopper in a few guises (wheels changed) It has a -2 headset with 51 offset 40’s.
In 36 form I eventually settled on 44 offset and -1 or -1.5 headset on the 2016 model with a 180mm fork (63.5 inherent with 170mm 36)
WIth a 2017 I would use a -1 I think (62.5 inherent with 170mm fork)
I pulled together an angles table a while back to hep me decide what to use with the 40 based on what I was feeling, I updated it to reflect the Mojo ’17 version which is -1 deg. I should add the impact of a 29 front wheel too.
Don’t shoot me if you disagree with it, let me know and I’ll update it!
All figures are for a Longer/L frame size so just add or subract the requisite amount for the other frame sizes.