I’d personally not go down that route …. I’d replace them.
mandp do complete sets for about 50-60 notes.
an alternative that I’ve used in emergencies is to cut up an
old belt to pack out the cush rubber. I’ve used leather belts
twice now 🙂 Not tried the inner tube idea though.
In exactly the way you just mentioned
the take up is better and smoother so accelerating out of corners is smoother down shifts smoother etc so the quality of the ride is improved.
I did mine on my ex ZZR1100 a few years ago. It was around £30 for the part and took 5 mins to fit and another 10 mins to get the wheel off, on and aligned. Sprocket carrier off, old rubber thingy out, new rubber thingy in. P.O.P.
I did mine on my ex ZZR1100 a few years ago. It was around £30 for the part and took 5 mins to fit and another 10 mins to get the wheel off, on and aligned. Sprocket carrier off, old rubber thingy out, new rubber thingy in. P.O.P.
The OEM cush drive went baggy pretty quickly in under 20k miles. (160 bhp going through mine if the dyno chart is to believed).
Whip the back wheel off. Pull the sprocket carrier and sprocket off. Cut up the thickest inner tube you can find into squares. Stick these to the cush drive with glue. Lube the metal blade of the sprocket carrier with fairy liquid so it slides in easily to the snug gap between the rubber. Make sure the carrier when replaced is a good snug fit.
Remount and tighten up the back wheel.
Seems to have worked and is still working for the 74,000 miles since I did it…… currently on 94,000, original clutch and engine not been out of the frame or split….
No pics of mine immediately available so here’s Mrs Rickmeister’s heavily re worked XT 600
If anyone’s interested, removed the wheel and cush, slipped some strips of inner tube into the worn cush area, refitted and, loads better. Really noticeable. How long it’ll last I don’t know, but easy to do so thanks for the guidance