• This topic has 18 replies, 11 voices, and was last updated 9 years ago by D0NK.
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  • Anyone put Raceblades on a Kinesis Pro6 or similar disc shod CX?
  • Kryton57
    Full Member

    I’m interested to know whether the lack or brake caliper means the guard bands on the fork brace/upper or not?

    mattsccm
    Free Member

    “bands”???
    Are you struggling to fit the guards to a fork without a hole?
    If you have a hole up through the steerer use a starfangled nut in the bottom and through the guard. Or a cork and a screw as we did years ago.
    I am wondering how to improve on cable ties on my carbon fork as it has no hole anywhere. Velcro might do it as the stays hold things pretty securely or maybe a very small hole drilled up through with a self tapper?
    Finally if you have the race blades far enough but if not you can get better guards on a CX bike as there is plenty of room.

    TiRed
    Full Member

    Must depend on whether the fork and rear stay bridge is drilled, surely? If not, then I struggle to see how to securely fit any decent mudguards.

    According to this picture – no.

    Yes on a CAADX disk, so there’s your choice.

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    D0NK
    Full Member

    You can fit full guards on a pro6, fork and chain/seatstay bridge are drilled.
    Dunno about raceblades, not sure what fittings they use, would guess they are similar to full guards tho.

    edit
    tada

    bol
    Full Member

    Yep, I’ve fitted proper guards to mine. In fact this thread has reminded me its time for my pro6 to do its annual summer cross bike to winter road bike transformation. I wouldn’t have thought race blades were worth the hassle on a frame that’s got so many mounts.

    Kryton57
    Full Member

    I haven’t got the bike or the guards yet, this is part of the buying decision…

    Ideally I want “clip on” guards so they can be easily removed should I decide to enter a cross crace one weekend.

    DONK – your’s look good, what are they please, and how is the front of the front guard secured to stop it flapping about & “banging” the fork? I can’t see properly but is there a tab on it which is screwed behind the fork?

    Thanks

    jonba
    Free Member

    I have a set of raceblades on my pro6 but I don’t understand the question?

    Fitted because I want to be able to add or remove them at short notice. In the period between the end of the cross season and the weather improving I use it for a bit of road work but also off road.

    They attach to the stays/forks only so drilling doesn’t matter. They don’t screw onto the sesatstay bridge or fork on mine and are fine. They rattle a bit on rubbish roads but no more so than the full guards on my ss

    Kryton57
    Full Member

    jonba, as far as I can see they (raceblades) are not attached to the fork – I may be wrong. So at the point the go under the fork are they not flexible enough to be banging away on the fork during a ride?

    scotroutes
    Full Member

    Raceblades don’t go forward of the fork at all.

    Raceblade Longs attach to the brake caliper bolt via a little bracket

    I assume you’d need something in a similar location on your forks

    Edit: DONKs photo doesn’t show Raceblades

    Kryton57
    Full Member

    Thats my point – my potentail pro6 has discs and therefore no brake caliper.

    In the meantime, I’ve noted SKS Chromoplastics would do the job I think…

    scotroutes
    Full Member

    The Chromoplastics are very good and, once the initial fitting has taken place, can be removed in a few minutes. The least handy bit is the bolt onto the chainstay bridge. You still need an attachment at the fork crown though.

    You may find that the Kinesis forks have a hole in the bottom into which you can attach a bung of some sort, and then a bracket attached there.

    Pickers
    Full Member

    Is there a tapped hole on the rear of the crown (there is on my Boardman CX)?
    There’s a mudguard eye at the dropout, I’d be very surprised if you can’t fit “proper” guards

    jonba
    Free Member

    Ok, so they attach to the fork legs pretty securely. They don’t go under the fork but sit slightly behind it. Mine don’t hit the fork as far as I’ve noticed but it was a bit fidly to set them up. On smooth roads it wouldn’t be an issue but they do have flex and when it get’s very rough they do rattle. I guess they do hit the fork then but they’ve not damaged the bike.

    I maybe only fit mine for a handful of rides a year, I would get something more sturdy if you plan to fit them and leave them on/ride with them more. For offroad I have the Zefal swan/croozer guards and just use the back one to keep the mud off me on longer rides.

    tang
    Free Member

    Yes there is a tapped hole on the rear of the crown. I’ve fitted full length no probs to my pro6.

    STATO
    Free Member

    As DONK has shown above [edit, and tang], the forks are threaded for mudguard fitting.

    Having dropout eyelets but no crown mount is the sort of thing PX do, not kinesis.

    Kryton57
    Full Member

    Thanks, cromoplastics it is then….

    Cheers all.

    stumpy_m4
    Free Member

    Having dropout eyelets but no crown mount is the sort of thing PX do, not kinesis.

    Evans do as well on some of there Arkose !

    TiRed
    Full Member

    Nice to see that Kinesis have thought things through properly. They were one of two suppliers of fully carbon monocoque forks with mudguard eyelets when I was looking. Couldn’t find any so went with the Enigma ones instead.

    I have SKS P35s and Raceblade Longs on different bikes. If I was planning on mixing road and cross and removing the guards regularly, I’d stick with Raceblade Longs; they are 80% as good and 200% more flexible. You’ll need the very short bracket if mounting directly to the back of the fork. In fact you’d really need two as the seatstay bridge also has no brake to clear.

    D0NK
    Full Member

    DONK – your’s look good, what are they please,

    probably already answered but sks chromo p50s, fit fine with a 35c tyre, haven’t done any mudplugging in proper claggy mud (where I reckon limited clearance* may cause issues) but for my wet commute they’re fine.

    Fit with standard hardware as stato pointed out forks are drilled. Left the rear on for mary townley loop the other week and no problems getting bashed about on the many, many rocks. First set of sks lasted 18months before the fittings gave up, IMO reasonable vfm, at ~£25 online I’ve spent much more on tyres (and probably brake pads) in that time.

    *front is a tighter than rear, half to prevent toe overlap and half because there’s not a massive amount of room under the fork crown. It’s not fag paper thin by any means, but like I said proper sticky stuff may give you problems.

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