In the South or South West and can competently sort mine out once and for all.

Many thanks. 🙂

What’s the problem? I have hyrds on my Peregrine.

Bike City in Wells are competent mechanics

Cheltenham cycles in Cheltenham you would never guess :-).Set mine up on my Trek crossrip from new been great ever since.Said they were fiddly.01242 255414 ask for Pete he has done plenty.

Thanks chaps. Noisy when not braking, quiet when braking. This has happened before hence my asking for an lbs that knows how to set these up correctly.

Edric – are they familiar with these? dobiejessmo – Cheltenham is miles away although you’ve given a good recommendation.

Give them a call they work on everything 01749670002.Just called Rich or Tony I am on the phone now and Rich said no trouble

No worries thought you were around Marlborough way!Even that is 45miles away.Not that this helps but once you get them right they are great way better than cable only.

Thanks again. Sounds as though Cheltenham Cycles will be worth a call. Your help has been appreciated. 8)

IPA those discs absolutely spotless… get some new pads.. maybe try some organic especially whilst its dry.

Get one of these..
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/hayes-pad-rotor-alignment-tool/rp-prod35769
Which makes the caliper setup just perfect and is a doddle to use.
Bed the pads in and should be OK.

CG, you know where I am….. 🙂
Might be too far maybe but the offers there.

I had HyRd’s on my CX bike for a year or so, they where easy enough to setup, if you follow the instructions.
The problem I found was that when the pads wore enough that the lever came back to the bars there was still over half the pad material left.
You can’t adjust the cable because if you do that the caliper lever won’t return enough to allow more fluid through from the reservoir.
The only way to make use of the remaining pad material is to top up the fluid reservoir (but then you have to drain fluid out when you fit new pads).
It seems to me to be a design flaw caused by the reservoir being too small.
I’ve fitted the HyRd’s to my son’s CX bike now and have some excellent Shimano R685’s.

+1 for Pete @ Cheltenham cycles

I posted this in another recent discussion: I had the problem with excessive lever pull, and found a solution posted by someone on another website. Remove the cable clamp and bolt, and refit them on the bottom of the piston arm, then clamp the cable on the inside of the bolt:

Bit of a bodge, but it works really well, and gets the brakes working with “normal” lever travel, instead of a long pull with nothing before they activate. The bleeding/overfill suggestion didn’t make any difference for me.

I’m running the cable swap over setup too, the lever does feel nicer but you seem to lose a bit of power due to the leverage change. I think it’s worth it but others might not.

CG- when you say noisy when not braking, due you mean a pad rubbing noise or something else? Mine seem to be prone to squealing like a banshee in dry weather- I’m assuming it’s some sort of contamination but no amount of cleaning etc seems to sort it. That’s braking though.

I’ve been running a set for 2 years and they went through a crap period. After some new pads and a reservoir top up sweet!

Pete – thanks, that’s very kind of you but too far. 🙂
cloudnine – are the supplied pads not decent quality then? What’s worth looking at?
Dibbs – you obviously weren’t impressed!
kcr – good that you’ve found a solution.
swanny – the noise reminds me of what my my Hope’s used to do in the wet. I’m keen to change pads if there’s some better ones. I think I switched to organic with my Hope’s. It’s only been used in the dry but I really can’t ride it with that noise.

Thanks everyone, really helpful. Will update when it’s fixed. 8)

Maybe try some semi metallic pads from uberbike..
If they are the same pads as the spyres then i think its these ones
https://www.uberbikecomponents.com/view-product/Uberbike-Shimano-Deore-M515-Semi-Metallic-Disc-Brake-Pads

Also get some IPA alcohol to clean the rotors before you put the new pads in…
Useful how to on noisy brakes…
http://www.pinkbike.com/news/Tech-Tuesday-Silence-That-Squeaky-Disc-Brake-2011.html

That hayes tool i linked earlier in the thread is ace for a perfect alignment. It slots in between the pad and the rotor, you pull the brake, then tighten the caliper bolts up.. and it should be aligned perfectly.

Thanks cloudnine, will check out those links. I don’t actually do any bike maintenance, total bimbo. 😳 Apologies to the sisterhood. 🙂

I didn’t swap the cable locking bolt over, just don’t use it and pull a bit of extra cable through so its more responsive. Also the stock pads are useless if its at all wet and you need good compressionless cable outer (like Jagwire).

Great brakes though.

Be careful pulling extra cable through, or winding up the cable adjuster to preload the travel (as opposed to just taking up any slack). It’s important that the piston arm fully returns for the brake to operate correctly (this is highlighted in the setup instructions). I discovered that winding the cable in too much can cause the brakes to suddenly stop working altogether.

Stock pads were absolute rubbish. Decent pads made a load of difference to mine. However the biggest performance enhancement I made was getting rid of them and fitting Shimano 685 instead.