I am currently in the ‘fortunate’ position where a) my commuter needs a new frame and groupset and b) I’ve had a tidy windfall of cash to fund it. Groupset wise, I would normally just go for 105 (mechanical), but the combination of a) and b) his has allowed me to have the, so far, idle thoughts about going for Di2 while I have the money and chance to get a frame to suit at the same time.

One the one hand I really like the idea of Di2, on the other I’ll be doing ~7000 miles a year in all-but the worst weather and would like the groupset to last (let’s say) 4 years before replacing it (I usually change the chain/rings/block every 18 months, so I’m really talking about reliability of mechs/shifters etc, rather than expecting no ‘wear-and-tear’ replacements in 4 years).

Anyone clocked up any serious milage on any of the various flavours of Di2 and have any comments? Any real-world Di2 users have any particular comments that might sway me either way?

My brother in law bought a high end, light weight roadie a few months back. He absolutely wanted hydro discs, but was a little disappointed that the bike came with Di2 as standard, as he had a preference for standard mechanical shifting.

After a couple of months and plenty of miles, he’s a bit “meh” about the discs, and loves the Di2 to bits – says he feels he uses the gears far more effectively now, changing far more frequently than he might have otherwise and with so little hassle.

…that’s kind of the next question… 🙂

Currently running BB7’s, which I woudl swap to the new build, but there is the choice of going hydro with either Di2 or mechanical. Minded to stay with BB7’s for the moment as I have more than enough power/modulation as it is and they are (almost) fit-and-forget.

Have ran Di2 (original Ultegra version then current Dura Ace version) for 3 years. Bikes ridden in all weathers, including the deluge of last years Ride London. No problems with it at all. It just works. I wouldn’t hesitate using it on any bike.

I have been using hydraulic Di2 on one of my bikes since the start of the year. I haven’t ridden it loads, a check on Strava shows about 1,500 miles so far. It was worked perfectly since fitting, that includes a few muddy rides. It hasn’t needed any adjustment since it was first built. Inital Di2 set up is pretty easy, there are a few online guides that help. I have charged it once in that time (the battery was reading 50% when I charged it). The biggest difference in performance is the front mech, it only takes a light touch to shift, and the mech auto trims as you change at the rear. The rear isn’t so different from mechanical.

If you use a Garmin, then a Tatelabs Bar Fly mount provides a very neat mounting position for the front junction box – much better than the stem mounting that Shimano suggest.

The hydro disc have been perfect since fitting. They were pretty easy to bleed (if you are used to Shimano brakes) and have worked consistently since.

Done some 2k miles on mine, it’s on the summer/race bike so doesn’t get that much winter abuse. Really like the shifting. As has been said, front self trimming is brilliant. Biggest difference with the rear I think is how little you need to back off when shifting due to the force generated by the electric motors. Want it on all my bikes now.

I had one issue where shifting went a bit funny and needed a firmware upgrade. Shook my confidence in it briefly.

And it can be a bit tricky to find the shift buttons in thick winter gloves.

Ultegra Di2 on the plastic bike, has been on there for about 3 years with no issues at all.

Ultegra Di2 on the tri bike, again the only issue was once in terrible rain with some water getting into a bodged satellite shifter.

Hydraulic Di2 with Alfine on the commuter which has also been flawless.

Would recommend thoroughly 🙂

Cheers, Rich

Highly recommended here too.

I actually think it’s best suited to cr*p conditions, I’ve used it on the cross bike I race for the last two seasons and will this coming season too – it’s performed faultlessly over that time and although my mileage hasn’t been huge sometimes the conditions have been horrid, I’ve not had to make any adjustments and the only work I’ve done is change the jockey wheels due to mud and water getting in. One my previous mechanical cross bike I had to change the rear gear cable 2 or 3 times a season, even then shifting was unreliable at times…

There is a pattern developing here…. 🙂

Anyone been in the situation of having to rebuild the rear mech as a result of a fall perhaps. How/spendy/difficult?

You can get both halves of the cage as spare parts but I think that’s your lot!

http://www.merlincycles.com/shimano-ultegra-6870-di2-gear-kit-74063.html?utm_source=Merlin+Cycles&utm_campaign=af8b97fe25-Week_30_Monday_Mega_Deals7_20_2015&utm_medium=email&utm_term=0_efec82f678-af8b97fe25-260368885&mc_cid=af8b97fe25&mc_eid=74f1e8b660

[quoteAnyone been in the situation of having to rebuild the rear mech as a result of a fall perhaps. How/spendy/difficult?[/quote]

I think with the motors etc it would be a struggle. They are fairly robust, I had a fall on cobbles in Belgium and landed on the drive side. Bent rear mech hangar in the crash, but only had a scuff on the rear mech itself and it has worked fine in the following 15 months since the crash.