just taken delivery of a new second hand washer, hotpoint ultima wt741.

first few washes have been fine, but now it keeps coming up with an F-10 error code. google suggests pressure switches or blocked drainage pipe or something like.
im in the process of playing around with it, trying different things. firstly i unplugged the drainage pipe from the sink waste (jubilee clip/push on to spigot type) and put it to ‘mop bucket’, just to see if the waste drained freely. it does, and it works so far.

does this suggest then that the sink drainage isnt letting it flow freely enough? btw, when i chuck a bowl full of water down the sink it drains freely, as expected. im just about to try it again with the waste pipe going out the kitchen window.
(comedy moment when i was stood holding rapidly filling pans earlier, called for my wifes help to pass me another pan and she chucked the full one down the sink and straight back to the cupboard and floor. errrrr……) 🙂

anyone with any knowledge of this sort of thing?

thanks

EDIT: no, that hasnt worked. waste pipe out window, F-10 error code again 🙁

Check the filter usually down the bottom of the mc, and sometimes behind a little door.

just tempted to post a singletrackwasher-world question myself, so sorry for the mini hi-jack 😳
We have a bosch WM that stopped pushing water through to the conditioner tray.. am wondering if I can just pop the top off and gain access? (to see if it’s full of mould)
Or is it likely to me more involved?

anyone with any knowledge of this sort of thing?

Yes. If the wife may be called to help you with diy tasks you must explain 1/ in advance 2/ step-by-step 3/ slowly 4/ at least twice.

HTH.

took the front bottom cover off and there was a little white plastic cap so i unscrewed that and theres a little spinny thing 🙂 behind it. all looks clear tho so dont think thats a problem.

thanks

Should be some sort of filter before the waste pipe…found my old helmet pads which was useful as the replacements had disintegrated 🙂

I assume the little spinny thing can spin ok?

F10 is pressure switch failure. It’s a little doohicky attached to a small tube, probably needs replacing.

Should be some sort of filter before the waste pipe…found my old helmet pads which was useful as the replacements had disintegrated

i can sort of get to the ‘junction’ where the pipes meet, and where i assume the filter would be, but there doesnt seem to be much for me to actually get at to check. i was assuming the filter was where the ‘spinny thing’ is, and it seems clear, altho i cant get behind it to check the ‘junction’.

yes the spinny thing moves, it seems to be notchy, as tho it clicks into the ‘next notch’ each time you move it rather than free spinning. i assume its sposed to?

F10 is pressure switch failure. It’s a little doohicky attached to a small tube, probably needs replacing.

yeah i read that too, but cant see any small tubes, just the main big rubber tube going into the ‘junction’, then the normal waste pipe coming off it. where would that tube be?

thanks chaps

Any use?

[video]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yK7E94p-K7I[/video]

http://www.yourspares.co.uk/parts/hotpoint/washing-machines/wt741/parts/ys3638/hotpoint-wt741-pressure-switch-spares-C00143651.aspx

thanks for that cougar, most helpful.

are you knowledgeable on washing machines? is there any way of ensuring that the pressure switch is defo the problem before i buy another?

thanks again

z1ppy – Member
We have a bosch WM that stopped pushing water through to the conditioner tray.. am wondering if I can just pop the top off and gain access? (to see if it’s full of mould)

Should be able to.
We changed main bearings in ours, following a youtube video and common sense. Simples, although dramatic…

Sunday’s fun 🙁 by matt_outandabout, on Flickr

Worth checking the tube is OK. I once had an issue where the tube was kinked and had worn through due to vibration (fixed with heatshrink).

Kind of hard to do diagnostics at a distance, but if it was me I’d have the multimeter on the switch checking what it is doing, and possibly if I was feeling confident enough about what it was supposed to do, shorting out the contacts to simulate correct operation (only do that if you’re really sure, and be aware that you’re dealing with lethal voltages).

I’ve also fixed wiring, cleared obstructions from the outlet pump and recently changed the brushes in our motor (rather irritatingly the symptoms for that was the door locked switch not working, which wasted a lot of time trying to diagnose a switch which was working).

no, im not sure enough to do that with the leccy, thanks 🙂

and i dont want to end up like that picture either ^^^^^ haha

That machine in the pic was back and running again an hour later…

Matt cheers, just searched out a video, & it doesn’t look impossible, but I’ve temporarily fixed it by shoving a piece a plastic coated wire up the water feed to the tray

are you knowledgeable on washing machines?

No, I’m just really good with Google. (-:

I’ve had mine in bits a few times. The common one for me was an F-code that means pump failure. That’s a case of going in from underneath, unclipping the pump from the chassis, and undoing a couple of screws to open up the pump. Then you can remove the coin / hair clip / bra underwire / baby robin that’s lodged inside.

Had this last weekend, clear filter, tip on side get underneath and take pump off and clear out, take black tube from bottom of drum off an clear anything out (leave ping pong ball in) put back together and test. If still faulting take top off and look for tube to pressure switch, pull off and blow through, suck blow into pressure switch, test again to see if pressure switch is working. If still buggered call a man or start buying bits 🙂

In which case you not be suited to washing machine repair – looks fairly normal to me!

If you can’t manage that one you’re going to be spending a lot of money on repairs or new machines – have lost count of the number of times I’ve done that (thankfully the current machine appreciates the issue and makes it easy!)

The pressure switch tells the machine when it’s full of water. To avoid a waterproof switch, it works on air pressure – the switch is a little round thing fixed near the top of the case, with a thin pipe ddown to th drum. As the water rises it compresses the air in the pipe and triggers the switch. But the thin pipe can get blocked, then the switch doesn’t work. Alternatively, the switch may indeed be faulty. A usefull site is ukwhitegoods, helpful forum and online spares shop.

just an update on this that may mean something to someone…..

bought the pressure switch linked above by cougar and replaced it. thought it had fixed it, but still does it on ‘big washes’ only. if we use a quick wash its always fine.

i can only guess its a circuit board problem now, that seem right?

thanks