Hi
I’m looking into different options for my new wheels and was wondering if there is any pro’s/cons to running different rims on F/R of the bike?
I’m running Hope Pro2/DT5.1 at the moment and would like to reduce the weight of my wheel set up (on my Intense 6.6) for more XC biased riding (with the odd trail centre days). I’m also looking to go tubeless too.
I know a lighter wheel will pedal/accelerate quicker and that would be very advantageous for climbing as Malvern is very hilly.
I would imagine the front would take most abuse as the rear would ‘float’ over the bumps.
I like the Pro2’s as I can run 15QR front and 10mm bolt through rear.
The rims I’m thinking of are Stans Flow (front) and something like crest/355 rear. I know I’m not talking about lots of weight but as T*sco say ‘every little helps’.
Cheers
Steve

Your rear wheel takes more of a battering.

I would imagine the front would take most abuse as the rear would ‘float’ over the bumps.

i’ve mullered lots of rear wheels and never a front.

So other way round then 🙂

But as your front tyre tends to be the bigger one, it makes sense to have a wider front rim. So you might as well keep both the same!

Although a lighter wheel will accelerate and decelerate more quickly, that doesn’t mean it’ll be any better at climbing, it’ll be better at turning, sprinting and stopping. A wheel with more flywheel effect will often climb better because it evens out your power impulses.

Agreed that rear wheel always takes more punishment, but … front wheel is where you could use the extra width, so I’d just stick to Flows front and rear personally. Plenty light enough, tubeless and tough as old boots.

<edit> too slow, chief got in there first with same point </edit>

Looks like I’ve got it all the wrong way round then 😉
Cheers guys

Rear wheel takes more abuse. But, that doesn’t mean that a lighter wheel on the rear will automatically have any problems- it’s not an issue if it’s weaker than the front, it’s only an issue if it’s weaker than it needs to be.

Odly I tend to bend front wheels in crashes and break rears over time. No idea if/what that proves if anything. I’ve always use a matching pair though and usualy go through 2 rear rims for each front.

tinas, you bend front wheels as your usually traveling that direction and hit stuff with it, usually with steering turned so it gets bent over, the rears are just aging quicker as in normal riding it is getting more of a beating.

I know a lighter wheel will pedal/accelerate quicker and that would be very advantageous for climbing

Not so as you’d notice, and no more advantageous for climbing than a lighter frame (or leaving some of the junk in your pack at home).

know a lighter wheel will pedal/accelerate quicker and that would be very advantageous for climbing

Yes but you don’t want the rear to accelerate quicker than the front

Crests are light and wide, should be fine for you with Pro 2 hubs. Worked fine for me 🙂

Isn’t the difference between dt5.1 rims and the flows only 10grams? Great if you intend tubeless but wasting your money if not. Crests are still strong and have a bigger weight saving. Both crest and 5.1 have same 21mm inner width.

Jez http://www.followingthechainline.blogspot.com

I’m planning on going tubeless so that’s why I’m looking to change. If I can do that and save a bit of weight, great.
Thanks for the replies guys, really appreciate it.
Steve

Crest front, Arch EX rear (Both have same internal width). If you want to go a bit burlier, Arch EX front, Flow (Maybe EX) rear.

How much do you want to spend?

http://www.pinkbike.com/news/Syntace-W35-MX-Wheels-Tested.html

1600 grams for a full set, 35mm wide. So barely heavier than Crests, yet it seems they can take abuse.

A bit out of budget….nice tho 🙂

Buy some wider 26″ Carbon rims from light-bicycles in china. Wide as Flows and over a 100g lighter.

Light-bicycle 26 wide rims

Read several threads on them on mtbr:

29er thread

26er carbon rim thread

Don’t seem to be UST..

Wide as Flows

Not as wide as a Flow-Ex though (it’s the inner width which matters when you’re looking at what tyre profile you get) which is a shame as otherwise it might be tempting to get one for a superlight uni wheel.