hey guys about 22 years ago I bought a sweetheart Specialized Team S-Works FSR. It was designed by Horst Lietner, saw the original frame hanging up at the AMP Research’s shop in Laguna CA, they sold the design to Specialized, as I know it, the first Team S-Works FSR 4-bar link was born and I have one. anyway, she’s been a faithful joyful ride every ride, no adultery here, I’ll never ride another.

about 7 years ago I replaced her rear shock, now she needs a new front fork, the springs and elastomers have given out.

I’m not after anything super high-speed competitive, my racing days are gone, but I still enjoy technical trails. I’m looking to spend $200 to $300 if I can get a high quality fork for that, if I have to spend more I will, but I’d think I could get something high quality for that. I run V-Brakes, so the new fork doesn’t need to mount disc brake stuff.

trouble is, I don’t know anything about the current forks out there, right now I’d be buying blind! I do want to stay with RockShock.

the current fork (original to the bike) is an FSX CF/aluminum Rockshox Judy has 100mm of travel, and 1 and 1/8″ tube, but I’m not sure the length? although my wheel is a standard 26″ wheel.

I went to RockShoxs website, and there’s just TOO much for me to look thru, I need it simplified and narrowed down to just two or three choices, and and I do recognize that forum recommendations are subjective to the rider, but I need to get pointed in the right direction, what am I looking for?

(I’d show pics if I knew how on this forum)

thanks much for whatever help you can give!

Todd

You won’t find anything new with 1-1/8 steerer, and certainly nothing with v-brakes. Pethaps look out for some secondhand Rebas with suitable travel and steerer size, and you’ll have to upgrade to a front disc brake. If you stick with v-brakes your choice will be pretty limited, but the guys over on retrobike might be able to help.

speak to mojo i’m sure i read somewhere they got a small run of forks with 11/8″ steerers

what’a a “Rebas”

who’s “mojo” and where do I find him

is there a “retrobike” on this single track forum?

guys’ I’m an old timer, I don’t understand 1/2 of what you’re saying, it’s like trying to talk with my grandkids, just a whole different language 🙂

You’ll love retrobike.

http://www.retrobike.co.uk/
http://www.retrobike.co.uk/forum/

Your best bet is to try and find some new-old-stock forks from someone on there with vee brake mounts.

Mojo is a suspension tuning firm in the UK. They might possibly be able to find or build you something to suit.

Haha get one of your grandkids to type mojo-fox in to google on your computer and get the contact number and give them a call on monday.

Like mick_r says, talk to these guys (retrobike, it’s a website dedicated to bikes from the era yours comes from), they’ll be able to sort you out better than most on here.

If you’re set on riding your FSR you’re going to have a hard time finding things like forks that still work with it. Technology has moved on quite a lot in two decades. I started riding offroad when the first FSR was state of the art – not all change is bad, and you don’t need to understand the jargon or ride fast to get the benefit. It might be an idea to have a go on something modern – you never know, you might like it!

I’m guessing that you’re in the US, yes? In which case ignore the suggestion of talking to Mojo Suspension Tuning as they’re UK-based.

Reba is a newer model of Rockshox, and models up to about 2007 still sometimes had V-brake bosses on. Retrobike.co.uk is a forum dedicated to old-school bikes, and someone on there will almost certainly have or know where to find what you need.

Certainly something with around 80mm of travel will be correct for the frame. It’s worth having a look on the Pinkbike classifieds as they can occasionally throw up a gem: http://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/1710054/

thanks guys for your help!

going to stray true, she’s taken me for mind-numbing rides through CA, UT, CO, VT, WV, GA, AL and even up in AK. we got our iron legs together, she’s my ride till one of us is 6 foot under

I don’t mind buying stuff from across the waters, I have an old brit car too, and that’s where I get parts for her from, so I’ll check out the retrobike and mojo guys…

?what about maybe just getting her new springs and/or elastomers? those shouldn’t be too hard to find?

Rockshox 30 TK come in 100MM and 1.1/8? with v-brake mounts.

I might have a Rockshox air fork to suit in the garage, give me an email on Michael.ri.moore at gmail.com.

Look on ebay for a used Fox F80. Here’s one:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fox-F80-RLT-MTB-Fork-Steer-Tube-1-1-8-x-8-0-V-Brake-Disc-GC-/331866467849?hash=item4d44c86e09:g:x7EAAOSwtO5XI6md

I think you might get a better one if you search for a while.

so would this one be a good choice? I don’t know it’s “performance level”

http://www.probikesupply.com/2016-rock-shox-30-silver-100mm-26-9qr-black-crown-adj-steel-steerer-coil-fork/?gclid=CJ-bw6Li_cwCFUQjgQodj8wKOg#

or should I be looking for something of higher quality, I just don’t know the “modern” equipment

does SpeedSprings still exist, can you buy them somewhere?

my last set of upgraded fork suspension was with SpeedSprings

To be honest, if your original fork was the carbon Judy then the XC30 is a little.. low rent, shall we say!

Might be worth looking at the older Rockshox SID as that is/was the top of the line XC fork. Plenty for sale that have V-brake mounts.

Regarding a spring conversion on your Judy FSX – ask on Retrobike.co.uk

hey thanks idiotdogbrain!

where would I find one of these Rockshox SID ?

hey guys, I didn’t even think to go to eBay, dah

there I found SIDs and Kronos Springs. looks like Kronos has springs to fit my Judys. Maybe I’ll do that, or maybe just get the SIDs

Todd

Ebay, Retrobike.co.uk, Pinkbike..

WOW! found this on eBay

http://www.ebay.com/itm/RARE-BRAND-NEW-Total-Air-Kit-Rock-Shox-Judy-Specialized-FSX-Englund-SL-Race-XC-/191879587214?hash=item2cacea258e:g:iZwAAOSwH6lXQxyV

what do you think? my exact fork (Specialized FSX) is listed!

the only scary thing is he says “as is” “no warranty”

or would I still be better off getting a SID

Hey Todd… I think it’s great you are still riding an absolutely epic piece of kit in such a committed way.

Around these Singletrackworld parts a bike more than 5 years old is often considered pretty well obsolete, which is daft. The original Horst Lechner suspension designs were things I yearned for in my youth, but could never afford! Glad you are still riding yours..!

In terms of the aftermarket Judy kit on eBay you point to, I suspect that it will be difficult for anyone on here to give first hand advice directly for it. It seems like quite a rare and esoteric thing! All I would say is that much of the kit from way back then seemed to suffer from ‘functionality issues’ in some way, so I would suspect that an aftermarket air spring adaptor kit like this might also not be too reliable!

If it were me wanting to keep the flame alive with an old 20yr plus bike (I have one carbon hardtail that age also!), I would be wanting to keep everything as nearly ‘period correct’ as possible, whilst still making the bike functional.

With this in mind I think you are best off looking out for some really good condition secondhand 100mm Rockshox SIDs (or Rockshox Rebas) with air spring and v-brake mounts (circa 2000-2005 vintage). They do turn up on eBay reasonably regularly – and should provide you with years more reliable trail service. I reckon you could find a good pair on eBay UK for £100ish.

You really are going to be hard-pushed to find anything new from the modern era that will be completely compatible with your 22 yr old bike. Times have moved on I’m afraid and the bike industry hasn’t been too kind on the backward compatibility of anything.. 🙂

no_eyed_deer, that’s the thinking that this thread has led me too as well, thanks!

there are a few SIDs on eBay right now that might work.

what I don’t know (and probably most wrench heads here can tell me) what steer tube length do I need?

I’d like to keep riding her until a new fork shows up (meaning I’d rather not take her apart until I have to). Is there some way to know what length steer tube to get before buying the fork without taking the current fork off? if I do have to take off the fork beforehand, where on the fork to where on the fork do I measure to know that length?

thanks guys, you are all being very helpful!

Todd

Take the measurement from the top of the crown to the top of the steerer tube, as below

You can do it on the bike just measure from the bottom of the head tube to the stem top cap,
Don’t forget to allow a 5mm gap to preload the headset bearings, like this

When you fit the forks you first just nip up the top cap to preload the headset and remove any play in the headset bearings and then tighten the stem bolts to lock it down, don’t overtighten the top cap bolt or you’ll crush the headset bearings, just nip it up til play is gone,
Have fun..

These would work a treat if the steerers long enough, they’re a good fork that’s light and works great, they use an air Spring so you can tune em to your weight, you’ll need a fork/shock pump to set it up but they’re cheap and easy to get from almost any bike shop if you don’t already have one
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/331866467849
Don’t forget to swap the crown race for the headset bearings from the old fork to the new one,

again, thank you that’s very helpful info.

hey there are two SIDs on ebay that are very differnt in their specs, are the sellers just not really aware of the facts and posting incorrect (intentional or otherwise) information, or is there really that big of differences between different model SIDs.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/391456626359?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

and

http://www.ebay.com/itm/201591483786?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

if their info is correct, my Judy FSX has 80mm of travel (if I remember correctly), with the one posting only 63mm of travel and the other posting 120mm, what would you do? without much thought just grab the 120mm one, but might that one not mess up my riding geometry?

thanks for all your all’s help! this old time trail rider greatly appreciates it!

Todd

Sids have been around for a long time so there’s been loads of different models with varying amounts of travel over the years, the problem with the older ones is they were flexy and (imo) the damping system was crap, if I were you I’d not go much over 80mm travel as it would upset the geometry of the bike if you go too long, 120 would be too much on your bike, I think 100mm travel is the most you’d get away with
Those Fox ones are in a different league to older Sids imo, loads stiffer but still light and with a better damping system
But if you want the Sids get the shorter travel ones.

khani,

the only problem with that Fox is it says no returns.

buying something used on eBay with a no return policy is just a bit too dangerous for my blood

but thanks for the thought!

Todd

would the length of the fork, uncompressed, from the axle lug holes to the top of the crown where the steer tube meets the crown, be the same on the 120mm travel as an 80mm travel as a 63mm travel?

if so then that shouldn’t mess-up the current geometry, right?

but the two different forks would have a different compression curve, right? being that I’m used to old time springs, an air shock will feel different anyways, right?

The length increases with the travel, air forks are lighter and you can set the air spring to suit your weight and make miner adjustments with a pump rather than changing springs to suit your weight,
If you buy on eBay then you can return things if they’re not as described or broken using the Ebay/PayPal returns process even if the seller says no returns, but if you’re not comfortable with it then fair enough,
Good luck with your search 😀

The fork crown gets effectively higher – as the fork travel increases, so no is the short answer. A frame designed around 80mm forks should run 80mm forks and take 100mn at a push without upsetting the geometry.

Don’t worry about ‘no returns’ on eBay. If the forks do not work – and have been described as working – you will still be able to return to them and get your money back.

Agree with above, get on Retrobike as they’ll have all the answers. If your current forks are 63mm I wouldn’t go further than 80mm, if 80mm then no more than 100mm.

What ever you do don’t chuck out your old forks. There’s huge demand for them on Retrobike and a decent set could double your budget if sold. 😉

I’m old enough to remember my wife riding a sponsored set of first edition Judy XC forks back in 1995. They weren’t very reliable even then – leaky damper and wear on the stanchions (the gold anodised legs). I vaguely remember that air cartridge conversion but not a clue how well it worked. If you google “Englund forks” a bit of info comes up.

But I can still understand the attachment to your old (very rare) forks.

I’m pretty sure the stanchions bolt into the crown on your forks (so they can be removed and replaced). So could Mojo or their US equivalent put in a totally new set of stanchions with more modern (air spring) internals using off the shelf spare parts from some other fork (whatever had stanchions the correct diameter – Rockshox, Fox, Magura etc). Add a new set of bushes and seals in the lower legs and you have something that looks the same but would work better.

Might be worth trying a nice email to some fork places – it might attract their interest / curiosity to have a play.

I had a stump jumper fsr back in the early 90’s which came with Judy’s I was very underwhelmed by them.
(The grey one with a steel front triangle)
They did not feel as controlled as my previous rockshox mag 20’s

Over several years I tried various different solutions including

Risse hardbody dampers and coils
Qsr firestarter dual crown kit
And an Englund damper kit

The Englund kit was excellent, I’d highly recommend it

On the back I had a long travel kit and shock from Chris Porter

My lbs was one of the early rockshox service centres and might have some spares (they’ve certainly still got the service tool set for mag and judy series forks… And the guy who had the training back then is still there!)

The max travel that I ran in a judy even with the fire starter dual crown kit was 80mm

Above this I had problems with bushings staying seated and flex….