The mrs have a yeti 575 2012 here.. And it came with cane creek 40 tapered.. And i emailed silverfish what headset to go for my recent purchased asr5c, was also suggested cane creek 40 tapered headset.. Just looking for alternatives before hitting the buy it now button on silverfish really..
Takes the same 36/45 bearings as the 40 plus you can also use the Nukeproof reducer crown to run an older straight 1.1/8th steerer in the same frame without changing headsets whilst the usual fork is in for service or to run a lighter trail fork and heavier AM/Alps fork.
I’ve been looking at the same for my new frame. In my experience headsets with non stainless steel bearings start to get surface and internal rust quite quickly. This inevitably means stripping, cleaning, and adjusting them becomes a regular occurance… until the bearings seaze and they (or the whole thing) need replaced.
Fitting a headset with stainless steel bearings is the obvious solution to longer life. The Hope headset has stainless bearings but my experience with one of these is that the sealing is Hope-less(c); so although the bearings didn’t rust they still needed cleaned out when they became graunchy.
The only true fit-and-forget headsets I have used have been Chris King (I have only used the 1.5″). Stupidly expensive and heavy, and you hear reports of the older CK’s scoring steerers but it was not something I experienced with 1.5 steerer tubes. Much as it pains me to spend over £100 on a headset I’m pretty sure its the road I’m going to go down again as looking forward to a ride and wheeling the bike out of the shed to find the handlebars won’t turn causes much swearing; and its wrong to swear in front of the kids
Other headsets with stainless bearings are available. Cane Creek 110, Acros; but they are all around £100.
Thanks Doug.. That headset looks very similar to my nukeproof mega 2012 …i might just use that instead.
The other half 575 came with a cane creek 40 ..not very impressed at all, lower bearing seized twice this year..regularly clean it.
Can’t make up what headset equivalent to a HOPE (im sooooo thick! :evil:) cane creek headset finder said i need EC 34/28.6 (upper headset) ….and ZS 49 (lower headset) ….
The way i understand it.. In HOPE (from the link above) ..i need a Hope1 for upper and Hope D for lower ..can anyone please confirm it.
I have just bought Hope upper and lower bearings from Rutland Cycles. Came in at a whisker over £50 delivered (I ordered up a Yeti stem cap from moonglu and had a spare star nut knocking around, so didn’t need the hope head doctor stuff.
Hope stuff for less than the Cane a Creek stuff… No brainer really.
If you get a 40, then you can upgrade the bearings to a 110 when the 40 ones die. I have a 110 and it’s been a brilliant headset and miles ahead of a Hope I had previously. My experience of that was similar to mentioned above, the headset lasted well, but wasn’t smooth as it soon became graunchy. The 110 continues to be totally smooth.
Although, it’s only a headset and hasn’t transformed my riding.
The Cane Creek 110 headset does look like a very good option, although it makes a Chris King look cheap at RRP. I’m not convinced about fitting 110 bearing to a 40 as the additional sealing between the 110 and 40 models looks a bit different… if the moisture can get in to rust a 40 it could get in and make the bearings in a 110 graunchy (opinion, this might not be the case… but would you risk it?).
If you hunt around you can find ceramic and stainless bearings that will fit the 40… but I have no idea if that is a good thing to do either.
Had the same problem with the lower CC40 bearings in my Canyon. Swapped them out to nukeproof bearings from CRC and havnt had a problem. Got a Nukeproof headset for the Mrs Mmmbop on the back of that.
Nukeproof replacement 36/45 bearings for the 40 and nukeproof are pretty cheap, £9 delivered from CRC and mine have lasted well after being packed in grease from new. I think CC do the usual US dry market lack of proper grease thing. Superstar also do spare bearings (Type4) a little cheaper but there’s the usual minimum postage.
If you have an ASR5 and are wanting to run a tapered fork, you won’t be able to use a zerostack lower cup. The ID of the headtube is 49mm, meaning you have to use an external cup for tapered forks. If you want to run zero stack, you’d have to run a 1 1/8th fork.
I speak from experience because I’ve run both setups in the past.
Had the same problem with the lower CC40 bearings in my Canyon. Swapped them out to nukeproof bearings from CRC and havnt had a problem. Got a Nukeproof headset for the Mrs Mmmbop on the back of that.
Nukeproof replacement 36/45 bearings for the 40 and nukeproof are pretty cheap, £9 delivered from CRC and mine have lasted well after being packed in grease from new. I think CC do the usual US dry market lack of proper grease thing. Superstar also do spare bearings (Type4) a little cheaper but there’s the usual minimum postage.
If the lower headtube size is 49mm as pine says above then zero stack with 1.5″ steerer is out of the question. Theres just not enough room inside the headtube to fit the steerer and bearing.
Posted 10 years ago
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